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Agreed. I have a 29 year old 770 and last I looked, the ones for sale in similar condition and hours as mine are selling for about what I paid for it.

Doc - he said miles, you said hours. 700 miles may be 100 hours.

If it's a solenoid similar to what's in the picture below, yes, they go bad, no they're not worth fixing. They're under $20 at Amazon. Just make sure you get the right one.

I was going to recommend a rust removal chemical I use but since you put what it really is in the picture name, I wouldn't recommend the chemical after all. ;)

Nobody has posted in days. Did everyone run out of fuel and isn't running their machines? I've not run a machine in days. Thursday, I went out of state to visit relatives. Came back Saturday, mowed the lawn then went to bed to catch a red-eye flight to fly out Saturday night. Down in FL right...

I have the one in the middle, the 770. ;) The Mrs. bought it for me but I think it was around $10K, 29 years ago. That same tractor (same year, same model) sells now for.... $10K. ;)

Congrats on your new tractor! I have a re-badged (as a John Deere) Yanmar manufactured tractor that's about the same size as yours. Mine is 29 years old and it's been pretty much bulletproof. If you have a FEL and if it's anything like mine, be careful you don't bend the bucket up. The tractor...

For me, it's always been the ground.

OK, this may sound weird but it's happened to me, most recently a couple months ago. It may be worth a look for your situation. I was having an electrical issue where sometimes the tractor would start, other times, nothing, not even dash lights. I ran a jumper box directly to the starter and it...

Below is what I found for the error codes. Electrical issue since it's saying no signal?

OK. I cleaned the tank hoses so I can spray again. Talstar works really well. I sprayed around the house yesterday. Standing outside today, I watched ants around the house. They would not cross the line of where I sprayed the Talstar.

Oops, yep - it's a sealed tranny. Let's cross that off the list. I'd install a new belt next. It should be around $20 for the belt and not too difficult to install.

Welcome to the forum. First - are you changing gears while moving? I don't think you're supposed to do that on your tractor and doing so can cause damage. I'd check the manual. Second - check to make sure you are not low on transmission fluid. Third - although the belt is there, it can be worn...

For those using Talstar - Don't let it sit (for me, over the winter). It'll clog your pipes (or in particular, your wand).

Do you have a shop nearby that can test it for you?

Are you SURE the new alternator is good? Hasn't happened to me but I've heard stories about replacement alternators not being right. Did you get it OEM from a dealer (which is your best chance of getting a new one) or an aftermarket? Got a link to that source? I'm struggling to think of...

Let's save the ECU for last since it's the most expensive part. Have you thoroughly inspected the wiring harness for exposed, grounded or burnt wires/connections?

Is that knob supposed to pop up???

Is that pic from the engine? The actual serial number plate is inside the hood panel, on the right side. What's in the UNIT part of the plate gives manufacturing date info. First digit is the year Second character is the month (e.g. A=Jan, B=Feb...) 3rd & 4th is the day of the month. Last char...

Did they say your symptoms may be caused by a fried ECU? OK, you said you checked the fuses. Any idea how many you checked? What I'm seeing on the electrical parts diagram is: 6 on the wiring harness (all of them are 60A) 3 on or near the instrument cluster 10A, 15A and 30A...