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You can use a jumper wire at the white connector for the safety switch. I use a paper clip, just make sure that you keep it away from bare metal (tape up, tie up, etc.). It's a positive signal and will ground out. Once inserted into the socket try starting, if it starts it's the safety switch...

Sorry guys, some of the info in my post yesterday wasn't correct. I want to thank bordercollie for posting the pdf to clarify any confusion I caused with my post. Also I want to apologize to Realtree, he was totally correct in his post. I also looked in the manual today at work and realized that...

I don't remember the exact voltage range that the book says, but when the motor is running you should get at least 13.0 - 13.5 volts. I think the book says to replace if you get over 14.5 volts. Your on the right track with the alternator being bad. Reading your testing process, you have already...

If you are standing on the passenger side looking at the injector pump follow the pump housing to the left (toward the rear) and you will see a round solenoid with a greenish rubber boot on the rear of the solenoid. It's mounted on the back side of the injector pump housing. The rubber boot is...

If you can't get it fixed after addressing the fuel system and delivery, take a look at the engine stop solenoid. The stop solenoid on the 1100 is different from the one on the 900. It uses "internal" governor linkage to kill the motor by stopping the fuel flow through the injector pump. It's a...

We've had to replace a few of them. Can't say that there is an "average" amount of hours. Some with less than 1500 hours, some at over 3000 hours. For us I think it depends on how often the customer stops and starts the engine. There's alot of that.

Sorry for the late reply... just checked my e-mails and found this one there. On the same side that you removed the bolts (6) from is a 2 piece seal, you have to remove this seal to get to a snap ring that attaches to part of the shaft that goes through the hub. This seal is pricey, around 50.00...

Good info realtree, we get welding machines in our shop constantly that are "loaded up" from excessive idleing. The guys in the field will use them as generators (mostly 110v) to power their tools, which doesn't put the load on the motor that welding would. Thanks for the informative post.

Most cv boots have a part number on the "bell" end of them (it will be under the clamp). The ones on the older 900 rtv's did for sure. I'm not 100% on the new 1100's. I highly doubt that kubota is making their own boots, so I would look for it (part #) on there. I try to use empi cv boots when I...

Here's the part numbers: 70000-01022- Replacement glass with hinges and latches 70000-01061- Replacement latch kit only Don't be surprised if your dealer says at first they can't get them. They have to contact Curtis Manufacturing directly to order. But you have to be a dealer for Kubota to...

Just a little FYI for any of you that have busted the glass on your Kubota windshields, Curtis Manufacturing (makes windshields and hard cab enclosures for Kubota) does offer just the replacement glass with new latches and hinges. You'll have to order through your Kubota rep. they don't sell to...

Do you have power to your ign. switch? There are fuses that control the ign circuit as well, one of the two big fuses and (if memory is correct) theres one in the fuse block. With this issue we have changed fuses, ign. switches, and a couple relays. Most common are fuses or the ign. switch. If...

I agree with two guns, do the leak down test and compression check just to rule out the pistons, rings, cylinders, valves, etc. You know your original issue was with some valves, rule out the other pieces up top, your already there. If you can't keep enough compression it won't run.

Hi troop welcome to the forum. That sensor is your oil pressure sensor. That's where the wire you had asked about in an earlier post goes. You'll get a light on your dash indicating no oil pressure, looks like a drop of oil. Should go off after you connect it and the motor is running.

jpaton, could you check your messages?

Let me look into this, I haven't run into anything like this before. The knuckle is pretty straight forward, not too many things there to give you problems.

Where's the allen key plug your referring to? In the expieriences I've had the seals were bad and the knuckles were low on oil. If you are sure the noise is coming from the frt. knuckles you can tear them down, maybe you need to check the brake discs. Is the noise only when the brakes are applied?

The brake system can be gravity bled on these. Start with the farthest cylinder and work forward.

Mulemans right.The spring tension on that check valve will determine the amount of engine braking you will have. The more spring tension you have the harder your engine braking will be and vise-versa. You may need to "tune" it to your liking.

If you didn't have any fluid come out of the knuckle assembly when you pulled out the drain plug then you should check the seal where the c.v. shaft goes through it ( the knuckle). It's a 2-piece seal on the inner side of the knuckle. If you see any oil residue on the knuckle or on the seal it's...