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Actually, that is a relatively common practice, and has been for years. Many machines (tractors included) that have hydrostatic drive or power shuttle transmissions don't always have a dry clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, ETC. They simply use a plate of some sort bolted to the flywheel...

Start with a set of gauges. You need to know the static pressure first. That gives you an idea of the charge status. Then start the system and see what the gauges tell you. What you do next is based on that. Without gauges you have nothing to work with.

Okay, point noted. So what's your plan?

The point (as I see it) is this. Homeowner servicing of A/C systems has its limitations. If the system only needs a little freon added, and what you have on hand is a parts house recharge devise with a single pressure gauge and a low side adapter fitting, you can get lucky. That will work...

Doing air conditioning work "over the phone" doesn't usually work out too well. "low side freon is exactly to spec". Now what does that mean? There is only one gauge, so it's probably on a charging can. How accurate can we expect that be? Short cycling. What can the problem be? COULD be low...

I'm not sure a wiring diagram is your answer. Faulty wiring doesn't make compressors fail. Problems in the wiring, shorts and/or partially grounded circuits will blow fuses, melt wires, burn connections, that sort of thing. If you have that going on, then you've got a problem. Just because...

You're having compressor failures and you think an added fuse holder is the the reason? What size fuse is in this fuse holder? If you remove this fuse, what A/C components stop working? The compressor clutch (if that's all the fuse supplies) will work just fine on a 5A or 7.5A fuse.

You might try some other forums, like Tractor Forum, or Tractor by Net. There's a guy BMaverick who frequents a lot of forums. He's all gung ho on Yanmars and other Asian compact tractors. If you connect with him he probably knows of some suppliers.

Typically a gear pump like that will have dowel sleeves probably two on each endcap. The dowels will only allow the cap to go onto the center section in one orientation. That's the wrong pump for your application, simple as that. If you can't contact them and get the right one, you're kind of...

As I see it, one photo clearly shows the words in and out cast into the back plate of the pump. The suction and pressure lines are clearly reversed in this case. The pump is never going to work properly in this orientation. Sorry, but you blew it.

I guess there might a number things you're missing, although a relief valve is probably not part of your problem. Let's go back to the pumps. The first pump could easily have failed and transferred oil into the engine. Very common condition, for a number of reasons. The new pump with reversed...

No. It's a computer controlled power shuttle. Therein lies the problem.

Just guessing here, but "running bad" and gauges acting up at the same time. I have no specifics for what the problem might be, but with a common rail fuel system I'm sure steady system voltage is required. I'm betting you have a power connection or ground issue somewhere.

Assuming the other gauges are still working(?) you can expect the problem is not fuse related. I have no idea how much fun it will be, but the starting point for me would be the fuel sender wire at the tank. I would suggest removing the wire, watching the gauge and "flashing" the wire to ground...

Having never seen (or worked on) a 2032 I have no personal experience to share. However, the symptoms you describe are indeed common to many many other makes and models. The first question I would have is what drives this thing? I'd be looking in this direction...

First thing that comes to mind is too much fluff and crud build up in the radiator fins. With all the crap they put in front of the radiators on tractors any more, battery, air filter, framework, ETC, it's a major job to actually reach the radiator to blow it out. Just wiping the stuff off the...

Unfortunately, every tractor maker has different ideas on how to power all those circuits. Some like to tie a seat switch, neutral switch, park brake switch, PTO switch, and sometime more into the mix. It could be as simple as a bad fuse, but something doesn't want the tractor to run. An...

The one above the hydraulic pump looks promising. The three wires involved will be 1) ground 2) hot with starter 3) hot with key switch on. You might check that out.

Next time you go out there open the hood and look in the right front corner of the engine. There should be a fuel shut off solenoid on the radiator side of engine timing cover. Just in front of the injection pump. A cylinder looking thing about three inches long or so with wires and harness...

You can but I don't. I put the pump so it pulls straight from the tank. Hasn't hurt one yet.