Battery light stays on.

[dipgrizzly]

I am sure this has been covered somewhere in the forum....
The battery light on my 2005 900 RTV continuously stays on. After riding it a while if you turn it off it will not restart. The lights will work but the engine will not turn over. Assuming the alternator is not charging the battery. I've checked/cleaned fuses, wires, terminals, etc... and everything appears to be fine.
After charging the battery, everything is back to normal.
Any other ideas about what might be wrong, before I change the alternator?
How much is a alternator for my model?

 

[razerface]

i would check to see if the alternator is putting out a charge. Put a voltmeter on the battery terminals,,,rev up engine,,,should read 14-14.5 volts on the meter.

Is the voltage regulator contained in the alternator?

 

[D&D Farm]

Knowing Kubota it is a high dollar unit. I wish I knew where you lived in order to recommend kinda what to do. Do you have a rebuild outfit around where you live? Do you have a NAPA or another good parts place that can compare it to what else is available?
Like Razerface says check what voltage you are getting at the battery terminals...........Are your battery terminals/wiring tight? Just thoughts.......God bless.......Dennis

 

[bordercollie]

Also check your belt and make sure it isn't too loose. probably the alternator though..

 

[dipgrizzly]

I checked the alternator with engine running at idle and at higher rpm. With engine at idle, and 100% battery charge, voltage reads 12.6, flip the lights on and it drops to 12.4 and slowly goes down. After a 1 hour ride (with nothing on) battery is down to approx. 60% and voltage is 10.5 to 11....
Checked the belt and it is nice and snug.
I've never seen the voltage in the 14.0 - 14.5 range.
Live in Blount Co. Alabama bout 30 miles north of Birmingham.
I am gonna check at Cahaba Tractor Co. since I'll be down that way today. I will follow up with what they tell me. Thank you all for your response and help.

 

[bczoom]

Might you have a short somewhere? If you have nothing on (e.g. lights) and you're losing that many volts in an hour, that doesn't seem right.

Also, have you had your battery tested? How old is your battery? I've seen situations like yours and it was the battery that was bad. With a full charge it might have enough amps to start the RTV once. After that, it may have some voltage for lights and such but not enough amps to supply the starter.

Around here, every auto parts store will check it for free so it's an easy thing to quickly check.

 

[D&D Farm]

Also check your belt and make sure it isn't too loose. probably the alternator though..

+1 for sure........Take the old one off and go to perhaps an import salvage yard or and import type of auto supply if possible..........Try to match one up to size and attachment points.....Any markings etc of the manufacturer or the specs on a small plate????....God bless........Dennis

 

[dipgrizzly]

I think the battery was replaced in 2013, but I will take it down to Advance Auto and get them to check it. They will do it for free.
I also went by Cahaba Tractor Co. to check on the price of a new alternator....get ready...
$438.00 for a new one! I was like holy (enter cuss word)....
They also stated they have not started to re manufacture those as of yet. However she obviously found something that would work cause she said she could get me one for $120.... I don't know what the $120 alternator originally came off of but their must be others that work cause I know this lady I just met ain't about to give me that good of a discount..
I will check the markings/numbers on the alternator and see what other info I can find on it. I am gonna go back through all points of contact between the alternator and battery to make sure I did not miss anything before I drop $120 on the other one.
I am new to the Kubota RTV's and not that familiar with them.
I also purchased 2 1/2 gallons of UDT, a HST Filter and a new Transmission Filter. Can anybody give me a quick and dirty "how to" on a fluid and filter change for the transmission and HST? Is it the usual warm it up, remove drain plug, drain the system, remove the filters, replace the drain plug and filters, and refill? Or is their more to it? Is their a sticky on the forum on how to do it?
Also thanks again for the information y'all have given me, it is greatly appreciated!

Bordercollie, I got your PM and tried to send you a reply. If you didn't get it let me know

 

[bczoom]

I also purchased 2 1/2 gallons of UDT, a HST Filter and a new Transmission Filter. Can anybody give me a quick and dirty "how to" on a fluid and filter change for the transmission and HST? Is it the usual warm it up, remove drain plug, drain the system, remove the filters, replace the drain plug and filters, and refill?

Underlining is mine.
Yea, it's pretty standard. There's only one filter for the tranny.
Do you have the hyd. lift and plan on doing a change at the same time?
I don't think I even warm it up.

 

[RealtreeRTV]

There is one filter for trans (on side) but there is also a suction screen filter for trans that faces out the back. Be careful one of these filters only requires a little tightening. I'm not sure, but I think it is the suction filter. May have aluminum threads, I can't remember.
My trans change took about 2 !/2 gallons. (I like to pour dirty oil into gallon jugs so I have some idea what it holds, so I'm not guessing)

The power steering is a separate oil (UDT) that you drain by removing the suction line from the pump. Same oil as trans. Roughly 6 qts. No filter on mine.

If you have power dump, that's a separate oil too. (UDT)Same oil as trans. Roughly 5 qts. No filter on mine.

Hope this helps!
If I'm incorrect on any of this hopefully someone will correct me.

 

[D&D Farm]

Wondering if maybe you can trade out the UDT fluid for SUDT2..........Yes, it costs more; but for me it sure is worth the money and it's what they are putting in the new ones.........Glad you are checking out on a "non-standard" alternator........God bless......Dennis

 

[cov62431]

I don't remember the exact voltage range that the book says, but when the motor is running you should get at least 13.0 - 13.5 volts. I think the book says to replace if you get over 14.5 volts. Your on the right track with the alternator being bad. Reading your testing process, you have already identifyed the culprit, the alternator. Usually (in our expieriences) when that charge light comes on the alternator isn't charging properly. In some cases you may have a charge light come on when you first crank up the motor and it's idling then go away when you accelerate. The alternator is a Denso, but may be a proprietary alternator to Kubota. We usually send ours out to get rebuilt, not sure what we pay but definately less than new. Realtree is right on with the identifying and location of the filters. There is one exception, the filter (under the guard) on the rear of the transmission is for the hydraulic lift (if OEM it should be a reddish/orange filter). Good luck and keep us informed on what you find.

 

[bordercollie]

I think the battery was replaced in 2013, but I will take it down to Advance Auto and get them to check it. They will do it for free.
I also went by Cahaba Tractor Co. to check on the price of a new alternator....get ready...
$438.00 for a new one! I was like holy (enter cuss word)....
They also stated they have not started to re manufacture those as of yet. However she obviously found something that would work cause she said she could get me one for $120.... I don't know what the $120 alternator originally came off of but their must be others that work cause I know this lady I just met ain't about to give me that good of a discount..
I will check the markings/numbers on the alternator and see what other info I can find on it. I am gonna go back through all points of contact between the alternator and battery to make sure I did not miss anything before I drop $120 on the other one.
I am new to the Kubota RTV's and not that familiar with them.
I also purchased 2 1/2 gallons of UDT, a HST Filter and a new Transmission Filter. Can anybody give me a quick and dirty "how to" on a fluid and filter change for the transmission and HST? Is it the usual warm it up, remove drain plug, drain the system, remove the filters, replace the drain plug and filters, and refill? Or is their more to it? Is their a sticky on the forum on how to do it?
Also thanks again for the information y'all have given me, it is greatly appreciated!

Bordercollie, I got your PM and tried to send you a reply. If you didn't get it let me know

I got you covered griz. Oh yea, before you drain anything, be sure you have the hydraulic bed up. Also make sure that the drain plug gasket on the transmission...a little flat metal ring... doesn't fall into the drain pan unnoticed . collie

 

[TWO GUNS]

.... have not yet had a RTV alternator go out. But if or when it does.
It will be going to a Alternater / Starter rebuild shop. We have one local, he rebuilds ALL alternators/generators/starters in this area ...
The can put better
equipment and bigger charging componets, ( forgot the name of the thingys, are they dios ?)
in the alternators.

I would never pay that much for a alternator. That is just to much $$$ in my book.

......... two guns

 

[bordercollie]

I agree Two Guns.. A guy over in Yazoo, rebuilds starters for JD and I would think alternators would be a similar job..

 

[bordercollie]

Dipgrizzly, I am trying to post a page out of the manual to clarify the filters on the transmission and the info from the manual. The pdf at the bottom is the same image but can be enlarged easier on your computer...maybe... if I did it right.

 

[SpudHauler]

Sounds like your alternator is bad. Must have 14.5 volts at full throttle. Alternator contains the rectifier so either could be bad and it means the whole thing needs to be replaced.

I've seen where tractor guys are using GM alternators to replace old alternators on tractors. GM's version is a single red wire you hook to your battery. Sweet!

Any alternator like that would work if you can make it fit. They all are made to output about 12.5 volts at idle and 14.5 at full speed.

The one the clerk suggested may be you best bet.

Good luck.

 

[cov62431]

Sorry guys, some of the info in my post yesterday wasn't correct. I want to thank bordercollie for posting the pdf to clarify any confusion I caused with my post. Also I want to apologize to Realtree, he was totally correct in his post. I also looked in the manual today at work and realized that Kubota's spec for alternator output is 14v. Sorry if I caused any confusion there as well.

 

[bordercollie]

Sorry guys, some of the info in my post yesterday wasn't correct. I want to thank bordercollie for posting the pdf to clarify any confusion I caused with my post. Also I want to apologize to Realtree, he was totally correct in his post. I also looked in the manual today at work and realized that Kubota's spec for alternator output is 14v. Sorry if I caused any confusion there as well.

Cov62431, You don't worry about it at all. I have been in the very same shoes. In this busy world and life we all lead, we hardly have time to breathe. Sometimes, things just get mixed up. collie

 

[dipgrizzly]

bordercollie, the image you posted is extremely helpful. 2 seperate filters for the transmission was a little confusing, however the image and instructions clear things up. Their is a color difference between the filters I purchased, as stated in the image (one is yellow and one is orange). It also appears the thread pattern is different between the 2 filters. The previous owner did not take of the machine and if i had to guess it still has the original filters from when it was purchased.

As far as the alternator goes, I completely removed it cleaned all terminals between the alternator and battery. I also cleaned the alternator and other parts. I reinstalled the old alternator to see if I got lucky and cleaned something or knocked something loose to make it work again (and to move the Kubota out of the way from where i was working on it), but luck was not on my side.

D & D i will see if they will trade out the UDT fluid for SUDT2 fluid. I dont mind paying a little extra for something better.

TWO GUNS, I would get the alternator rebuilt by the local shop but they were busted for Manufacturing Methamphetamine a few months ago.......go figure!

So I am assuming the large tank at the rear of the machine is the tank for the hydraulic dump bed?

Just FYI for all the alternator is a Denso OE# 101211-8771 55 amp/12 volt. the local Advanced Auto parts store or NAPA did not have it. I think Avanced said they could get it but it would be about $200....