Lower ball joint replacement

R

rjglenn

Member
I had my son pick up a replacement ball joint from the local dealer today, he didn't know any better.

This is not my first time with this so I'm a bit surprised...

Does anyone know when they (Kubota) stopped including the castle nut and cotter key with a replacement ball joint? Really, we are supposed to use the old nut now?

Not a big deal, just an inconvenience with a $42 part.
 
RJGlenn, I replaced one on my '05 many years ago and can't recall whether I had to order the castle nut and cotter key separate or not but think so. but... they are listed separately in the old parts book I have...# 050 for the joint,#080 and #090 for the nut and key..... ... then the bolts #070 and lock nuts #060 to hold it on, is separate too. section G140 page 118
You can go to the Messick's site and get this parts diagram emailed to you by filling out the form under RTV.
 
Huh... I replaced the ball joints on my other machine a couple of years ago and it seems that they came with new castle nuts and cotter keys but maybe the counter guy hooked me up. I had to cut the old ones off with a torch that time too but I don't remember a special trip to get new nuts. I don't know. It just doesn't make sense to sell these without nuts because the nuts are not reusable, there's no reasonable way to get the nut off of the bolt. Doesn't matter, job's done and I'll quit grumbling now...
 
Nothing is more aggravating as when you get home and not having everything you need... Usually on the diagrams, they have a separate # for the group of items that you need to buy as a unit and a [ showing them as one item. That is what I looked for when answering so they could still come together and me not see.
I was lucky and able to use a big pair of vice grips,after destroying the old ball joint's rubber covering, and got it off of my machine..
 
Lt me know how the job goes.I have the frivers side i need to replace my self but have been holding off on the job.When my MS relapses i loose all morivation as i get frustraited with non working or non listening hands.
 
It is a very easy job with a torch, a 19 mm wrench and a 14 mm wrench. Jack the machine up by the front differential skid plate, remove the tire, take the 2 nuts and one bolt to free it from the A arm, cut the tapered ball joint bolt with the torch, let it cool down a bit then slide the old assembly out of the end of the A arm. Reassemble by sliding the new assembly into the end of the A arm and line up the two studs into their holes and then the bolt. Tighten all that down, push the A arm down and line up & insert the tapered ball joint stud into the hole on the knuckle, put the new castle nut on and tighten it down & put the cotter key in. Put the tire on and that's pretty much it.
 
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