Relief valve poppet

Jeff S

New member
I have a 2010 kubota rtv 1100k worksite model, and was wondering if anyone knew if there is supposed to be a spring that goes over the valve poppet on the relief valve? The poppet was rusted up, and I buffed it nice and smooth and it slides in and out nice now. But it doesn't seem to move when I'm applying brakes, and the cables and spring are good, and the plate that pushes the poppet in has the correct spacing. When driving it feels like the brakes are on, and you really have to get on it for it to move at all, so im assuming that it's not releasing pressure. Any guidance would be much appreciated
 

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I have a 2010 kubota rtv 1100k worksite model, and was wondering if anyone knew if there is supposed to be a spring that goes over the valve poppet on the relief valve? The poppet was rusted up, and I buffed it nice and smooth and it slides in and out nice now. But it doesn't seem to move when I'm applying brakes, and the cables and spring are good, and the plate that pushes the poppet in has the correct spacing. When driving it feels like the brakes are on, and you really have to get on it for it to move at all, so im assuming that it's not releasing pressure. Any guidance would be much appreciated
jack up the rear of your machine and check that the wheels move freely while in neutral. sometimes the brakes get seized up on this model. the poppet doesn't apply unless you press hard on the brake peddle if it is adjusted correctly. it isn't supposed to engage with normal braking. it's function is to release transmission high side pressure to make shifting easier. some models had a knob on the dash that also engaged the poppet to make shifts easy. there is no spring involved on the poppet itself and should move freely with engine off and transmisson depressurized.
 
Ok thanks for the reply, I was hoping it was you that would chime in. Im new to the rtv seen, and have been learning as I go. I took my rtv to the kubota shop to see if I could get a little more speed and make my ride shift a little easier, and I should have just figured it out myself! 2200 dollars later and my ride does 10mph in high gear and it did 18 when I took it in. They said you need a new motor lol no I had the heads off the machine last year,and all was fine. This is my bill
 

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i suggest you change engine oil to 15w40 instead of 10w30 might help compression. i would also adjust the valves because of the leak down test. foaming oil is your problem it sounds like???? according to the sheet? if the new oil is still foaming then the oil will compress in the pumps and loose efficiency and cause wear. check the hose between the suction filter and the transmission for wear cracks etc. probably just a good idea to just get a new one and replace. i hope that is where you are getting air in the system causing foam.
 
I understand the loss of power because it has alot of hrs and she's getting tired, but still doesn't explain that I took the machine in and it was doing 18mph, now it's doing 10mph. The very reason I took it there was to have them do some adjustments and possibly get my loss of transmission power back, not motor power. I know they have something messed up because now when I'm going full speed and let off the throttle, the machine squeals to a stop instantly.
 
stopping suddenly was normal for these models,that is why the coast valve was invented. but if you machine didn't do it and now it does sounds very suspicious??? did your machine one have a coast valve or the original valve adjusted to to the same? just changing the oil shouldn't make a difference like this. do rule out that your brakes aren't seized first cause this is common also. put machine in neutral on flat concrete and it should roll easy or better jack it up and roll the rear wheels in neutral engine off to see if brakes could be dragging. and then move on from there.
 
I did take off both brake pistons and cleaned them up and the piston move freely. I bleed all 4 brake lines, and im getting clean fluid through all 4. The hydrostatic braking seems alot more aggressive than before,so im thinking one of the linkages or cables are out of wack. I do have the kubota shop manual but man I don't know were to start on adjustments. There has to be 10 linkages and cables that all work together, so what do you start with so everything else works as it should?
 
just a heads up... the brake seize internally so check the rolling resistance. there is a relief valve on top of the transmission that you can remove and replace with a coast valve or it can be adjusted to help the dynamic braking. use the search function and you will find old posts with pics search for coast valve... the same for the 1100 or the 900. the adjustment starts at the peddle and ends with the hst speed control lever. also on the old 1100 there was a spring and gas shock absorber thing that wouldn't allow the hst speed cable to snap back fast..... this could have gone bad and the reason for the sudden change. to make adjustments you will need a tachometer.
 
Gas shock is good and springs back quickly. I have the machine jacked up and in neutral with e brake disconnected and brake pistons are free. The front wheeles spin nice and easy, but the backs are really hard to spin by hand
 
the shock should spring back slowly to retard the sudden stop. mine did the same thing so i just installed a coast valve. rear wheels shouldn't be difficult to spin in neutral. lube the brake levers on each side of the transmission case and free them up until they release all the way. hopefully this will fix all of your problems
 
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