Replacing the centre drive shaft on an RTV 900

[VincentFandango]

Hello all, new member here with a new to me 2008 RTV. I've had a read around here and it looks like there's plenty of helpful people here who know what they're talking about. The UTV needs a bit of TLC - as well as performing a full service I am replacing the rear axle bearings and UJs as they are completely trashed. Plenty of info and guides out there for that.

My other job is to replace the centre drive shaft as the CV/UJs here are also trashed. This has the (I think newer style) 1 piece drive shaft.

So I'm wondering if anyone here can offer any wisdom on how to achieve this? I've scoured the internet for advice on how to do this with no luck, the WSM doesn't appear to cover this procedure, and the WSM for the 1100 model describes the procedure for removing the similar but different drive shaft on that model as pulling the CV assembly backwards and off the input/output shaft splines. As most jobs are rarely simple.....it can't be that simple can it?

It has occured to me that it could be so easy that no one else needs to ask, or it's something not attempted by a home gamer such as myself. Given that Kubota have already relieved me of a painful sum in replacement parts I want to save some money and do it myself if at all possible!

Any advice is gratefully received!

 

[bordercollie]

Hi and welcome to the best forum around !! I found this link . https://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/threads/front-one-piece-drive-shaft.16532/#post-116511 Mufflerman says its spring loaded in his post dated 8/11/15. I don't remember if the earlier rtvs have it or not but my 2011 had a removable panel under the floormat to make accessing the one piece driveshaft that came on it , easier.

 

[VincentFandango]

Thank you for the info and link bordercollie.
I've removed the panel to expose the driveshaft at the front differential. Your link gave me the inspiration to have a look, but this wasn't easy as the bolt heads were very corroded....

As you can see both ends of the driveshaft have a decent amount of corrosion on the splines making it difficult to 'pop' the driveshaft off, so can I lever against the diff casings to do this? I'm hesitant in case I crack the housing, and there isn't much room to put a block of wood etc in there to spread the load.

If I can get this done I'll make a post on how I did it for anyone looking in the future

 

[geohorn]

I think I’d fabricate a shoe to slip over the end of the shaft and try a slide-hammer before I’d pry against that aluminum case in that area.
Alternatively, you might try a Porta-Power spreader between the collar and base of the diffy.

 

[bordercollie]

I never had to remove the shaft but found mufflermans's post on it. I did remove the floor panel because I had to fix the front boot. I used one of the split boots and it worked fine . I understand your concern about prying there near the seal too. I imagine that the area not giving ,is probably stuck good so I'd keep hitting it with the penetrant. If all else fails, I'd remove that edge of the boot clamp and see if anything is revealed under there.

 

[VincentFandango]

So I soaked the areas concerned with WD40 over the course of a few days and then proceeded to beat the proverbial out of them with a lump hammer and brass punch at an angle. After a while I won and the driveshaft came off the splines.

It looks as if the O rings on the input and output shafts have perished and allowed moisture in and rust welded the splines. Luckily the splines on the input and output shafts look ok which avoids the headache of replacing these as well.

I assume some copperslip or grease on the splines upon reassembly is acceptable?

 

[bordercollie]

Thank you VincentFandang ! This information will surely help others in the future by confirming that it is spring loaded. I would think some good grease /anti seize would be necessary unless it affects the o rings . We here on the farm put a dab of such on our pto shafts when using such equipment.

 

[geohorn]

...
I assume some copperslip or grease on the splines upon reassembly is acceptable?

Absolutely! MolyKote or Permatex Anti-Seize... or even ordinary Moly-grease would be good.

 

[Peter James]

WD40 is about the worst penetrating fluid you could use. The best is Kroil, PB Blaster is good and 50-50 ATF and acetone is really good.

 

[bordercollie]

I like Kroil - it's expensive but as they say (it crawls into the crevices) I ordered mine and keep it in my shop side so it is there when I need it.
I use the cheaper penetrant when I have something that needs just a little persuasion or cleaning. It does evaporate so there comes the need for grease.

 

[geohorn]

WD40 is about the worst penetrating fluid you could use. The best is Kroil, PB Blaster is good and 50-50 ATF and acetone is really good.

I wouldn’t say WD40 is the “worst”... I’ve used it for decades with great success. However, it’s better for drying out wet switches and mechanisms than heavily frozen/rusted items.... it does not have the amount of oil that remains for long periods if one desires long-lasting action. When I’m trying “free” a frozen nut or bolt, etc. WD 40 does great if the effort is immediate. If heavily frozen for years.... PB Blaster, Kroil, etc are good soakers.

 

[VincentFandango]

WD40 is about the worst penetrating fluid you could use. The best is Kroil, PB Blaster is good and 50-50 ATF and acetone is really good.

I know its not the best but its about all I had available! Kroil and PB Blaster are not particularly ubiquitous this side of the pond but I've used 50:50 extensively on my old Land Rover - I just don't have any on hand and the current lockdown here meant I had to wait a few days for some acetone to be delivered.

 

[bordercollie]

I've had wd40 get me out of a bind more than once. I remember having a pto shaft 's grease get so thick after plowing (dirt) that the push down release button wouldn't move...Then used wd to free it up. I appreciated it very much just for that reason among others.