RTVX1120 - Major Go Pedal Change After 200 Hour Service

[Ohio_Pawpaw_Grower]

Despite wanting to do my own 200 hour service, my Wife's illness has prevented me from getting to the farm and I had a local dealer do it. As it was being taken off the roll back, I could tell it seemed like the emergency brake was on when the driver pushed on the go pedal. The brake was not on and there was no visible light.

After he left, I tried driving it myself. Previously, as soon as I pressed the go pedal, the engine speed would increase and simultaneously, the machine would begin to move. But now, you push the pedal, the engine speed increases and increases and finally, the machine moves forward. Imagine a race car with a stall converter.

Anyway, I called the dealer and the Manager who seemed like a good guy, said he bets the hydraulic system has air in it. I should drive it 20 miles and it should burp itself out. I managed to put three miles on it but the weather is still pretty cool and my Wife can't tolerate a long ride yet. So I parked it and plan to put some more miles on it to hopefully burp the little boy. I also took it on our trails to introduce a lot of steering right and left and bed up/down.

To me...it feels like the tech adjusted something and changed the throttle to transmission relationship and now the two are no longer synchronized. I don't know the right terms but that what it feels like.

Is air in the hydraulic system a normal thing when doing this service and if so, will driving it push the air out? Any other theories? I hate to waste days and miles for nothing. Thanks.

 

[Bigorangething]

If it went zoom zoom before you took it in for service, it should go zoom zoom after service too. Air in the hydraulic system? Possibly, but more likely to cause an issue in a closed system but not so much in a vented one. If there is air, you should see very small bubbles on the dipstick, or open the fill cap and have a look. Have them bring the roll back out to the farm and drive it the 20 miles to their shop. I am guessing that the tech adjusted something they didn't need to.

Good Luck!

 

[aurthuritis]

I don't know why they would adjust anything during a oil service but it sure sounds like your hst speed lever,throttle position and peddle aren't in relationship anymore. If it was air you would be foaming and jerky.

 

[Ohio_Pawpaw_Grower]

At the risk of sounding ignorant, I read through the process Arthur created for adjusting the linkage. Can anyone tell me where the "bell crank" is? I can't seem to find a reference in the WSM. I am not going to do this myself - its a dealer created problem and they will pick it up next Friday to fix. But it got me curious. I have watched ten videos today and went through the aforementioned adjustment process three times. Actually seems very straight forward - just a little mixed up on terms. Thanks in advance.

 

[aurthuritis]

The bell crank is not mentioned in the manual as a bell crank sorry. It is the part that is on top of the engine and transmission that all of the linkages connect to at the same place. You move the peddle and it moves everything else in its respective proportion all at the same time. It is really a quite ingenious contraption that works very well.

 

[aurthuritis]

I really doubt that the dealer can fix it for you. It's really quite a simple process to get it all done correctly but seems to be beyond comprehension for most. Probably because the wsm translation is horrible. It took me several try myself before i realized that the order that you go through is very important to the success of the adjustment. You absolutely have to start with peddle travel or you won't get full adjustment.

 

[Ohio_Pawpaw_Grower]

I appreciate that buddy - I found it now. Its that mechanism that has the return to neutral slot and connects what you do on the throttle side to the HST rod. Now I am going to make the dealer fix this. But I think the tech adjusted something in the HST control rod to allow HST engagement to lag the throttle. After reading your procedure repeatedly, I think I can do it. But I would not start it from this position because I don't know what they've done for sure. Thanks again for sharing this with us and for the procedure. This is punishment for paying someone to do the 200 hour service. I just did not feel I could keep delaying it.

 

[aurthuritis]

I have yet to see an rtv properly set up from the factory. They range all over the place in adjustment. It's common to see the high idle off by several hundred rpm and then the fuel rack is derated a bunch too probably to meet some cafe standard i suppose? But a simple proceedure as it really is and no real tools or time to do it. Good luck

 

[Ohio_Pawpaw_Grower]

UPDATE: Returned to the farm Friday. When I got there, I first inspected the engine area and there was a little puddle of hydraulic fluid just under the vents for both the gear box and the HST. The levels were perfect. After driving it for nearly two hours, I could tell the performance was a little better. But especially in reverse, the engine RPMs came up well in advance of the HST moving the RTV. I also noticed the top end is down by 4-5 MPH (not that speed is my goal.) So here is my question. It appears the HST rod is what effects when the transmission moves the RTV. So, if I loosen the jamb nuts on both ends of that rod, and lengthen the rod a little, that should increase how soon and to what extent the HST starts moving. Do I have that right? I would like to go through Arthur's complete process at some point. But as a short term fix, should this help?

 

[aurthuritis]

This might help or it might really screw things up because it's completely backwards so try at your own risk. Engine off take the heim joint completely off of the hst speed lever then put the peddle all the way down against the stop and hold it there securely. Put the hst speed lever in its fastest position and adjust the length of the rod so that the heim joint can be reattached then adjust the connected lever just a hair off of full travel. If your close to correct when you push the peddle the engine rpm should come off idle and the hst should engage at the same time and with the peddle at full stop the hst and the high idle on the fuel injection pump should be at max.

 

[Ohio_Pawpaw_Grower]

Outstanding and I actually understand why. Thank you sir. I will try that at my earliest opportunity. I did read your process and checked the injection pump adjustment. At full pedal deflection, it is about 1/16th of an inch from the stop. (It still has the sealed wire so that must be a factory setting.)

 

[aurthuritis]

I would either adjust the peddle stop down a bit or adjust that little cable that attached to the governor control arm on the injection pump so that it just touches the stop. Then adjust the hst speed lever after that. You'll get all the rpm that the factory set up that way and it should make a difference.