Second remote install for a DK40SE Cab HST.


This spring I ordered top and tilt hydraulics from MtnViewRanch and purchased the 2nd remote kit from my DK40SE.

As my hydraulic delivery date nears I'm feeling the need to get this second remote installed.

Anybody who has done this and have any pointers?

My plan is to go visit the shop I bought everything at and ask this same question of the mechanic. He's a great guy and already told me I could do it myself. Hopefully I'll review the shop manual and snap photos of the relevant pages. I really wish I could buy the Shop Manual in PDF version someplace, I love those for my motorcycles.

When I bought the kit I looked over the parts. The unexpected things:

1. The thick plate containing the valve didn't seem to have obvious gaskets.
2. They provided two different length handles, but only one rubber boot and ball.
3. Also seemed to provide lines to the rear for both remotes (maybe I just forgot about the return?)

Given this was a second remote kit it seemed odd to provide both handles and extra lines. Some of this may be revealed when I'm elbow deep in the job. I've held off starting because I'm lazy AND because I fear of a long force interruption from something like a damaged and/or missing gasket(s).

Would love to hear from someone who's been there done it, and remembers mistakes that I could avoid.

Thanks in advance.


proof that I talk to myself.

Well I guess I'll answer myself for anyone who follows.

I talked today with my tractor mechanic. He reviewed the parts and said I have everything.

Kind of an odd mix.

It looked like I had too many hydraulic lines because they come in two pieces and both a feed and return.

You only get one valve body. They use o-rings instead of gaskets. You reuse the existing valve (and o-rings) add the second valve and it's new rear lines. Then you replace the existing joystick control with the new one supplied, but use the boot and screw on tip from the factory installed remote joystick.

I then asked how to get to this area.


Turns out you remove the rear tire, then the access panel behind it. To get to the top and run the rear lines you take the seat plate off.

Other than the junk I keep in the cap, I'm not worried about the seat.

I have stands and a floor jack that lifts my 7.2L F250. But that's a BIG loaded tire.

The hints:
1. Not get the tire off the ground and just wiggle and role it.
2. Use a jack stand.
3. Teflon pipe tape on the fitting threads.
4. Leak check by running the tractor and move each remote both directions slowly before putting it all back together.

Sounds like a fun Sunday...

Looks like it'll be just in time because my hydraulics are due to ship on Monday.:a1:

I'll try to take some pictures of the operation and post them.


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Thanks so much for the follow-up. This is great info for others.

I read your initial post but didn't have anything to offer. My Kioti experience is mainly as an operator of CK series and DK35. As it relates to hydraulics my only experience was just helping replace the O-rings in the cyclic control valve (as well as replacing a few broken hydraulic lines).


completed addition.

Didn't get a chance to update this post until now, but my addition went smoothly. Doesn't appear to leak, but my hydraulics don't arrive until Monday. Then comes the real test.

I'll link some pictures in to show the scope of the project and tools used, but it went pretty well. Two places that caused a bit more work:

1. That large loaded tire, come off fine, but apparently I'm not smart enough to roll a tire around and line up the bolt holes. It is heavy. Can't be spun and is awkward to roll, shimmy and tilt. Eventually I gave up and got a bolt hole under the higher stud, lowered the jack enough to hook it, then raised the jack to align the lower hole.

2. The hydraulic valves are a horizontal stack held inplace with a double ended bolt. The first of two caught on the threads and came out with the nut. Easy to remote the nut when the bolt was held by a vice, especially because the bolt is not reused, but the nut is. The second nut spun off the bolt leaving it attached the the transmission block. That one needed to be spun out with vice-grips. Access from the cab isn't bad, but it took a lot of partial turns to get it hand spin-ably loose.

2.5 the seat pan and seat is heavy. Bulky enough to require exit from the rear window, and heavy enough to make that awkward by yourself.

A picture of the parts.

An image from the depths of the job.

The new and old bolt.

Attach the arm and it's set screw before installing.

Tools used (minus the floor jack and stands), and the old parts that get replaced.

I view of the lines and controls before and after.