What size trailer?
- Thread starter XTROOPER
- Start date
don bon jovi
Member
I bought an all aluminum,fold down ramp,single axle ,with breaks. It's made by Bearclaw in northern MN. It hauls 2850#'s. I have the 1100 with a cab on it several times. It tow's like a dream! They have a website. I don't know how much you want spend,but dealer pick-ups and deliveries do chip away at a persons fun money! Good luck!
Don - Is that Bearclaw or Bear Track? I can't find Bearclaw. Here's Bear Track.
http://www.beartrackproducts.com/utility.html
XTROOPER - many "utility" trailers have a total weight rating at 2990-3000#. Trailers under 3000# don't need brakes and such. The problem is that your RTV + the trailer itself will put you over 3000#.
To stay safe, you should consider going up a size and getting a trailer with 5-7000# rating. This will get you into a trailer that's probably 6x14' or slightly larger. IMHO, that's a good size for the RTV as it gives you a few feet front-to-back extra (beyond the length of the RTV) to roll the RTV to get your tongue weight correct.
http://www.beartrackproducts.com/utility.html
XTROOPER - many "utility" trailers have a total weight rating at 2990-3000#. Trailers under 3000# don't need brakes and such. The problem is that your RTV + the trailer itself will put you over 3000#.
To stay safe, you should consider going up a size and getting a trailer with 5-7000# rating. This will get you into a trailer that's probably 6x14' or slightly larger. IMHO, that's a good size for the RTV as it gives you a few feet front-to-back extra (beyond the length of the RTV) to roll the RTV to get your tongue weight correct.
Bare 1100's specified weight is just a tick under 2500#. When you get into that range, as bcz says above, don't kid yourself that a single axle no brake trailer is a safe way to haul. It's not. If the cost of a new tandem axle trailer with brakes is above your budget, look at used ones on craigslist and other venues locally.
Another thought, you can rent a trailer here in mid-michigan for $50-60/day that will handle the 1100. If the trailer will only be used occasionally, this option could work. Give the rental company $55, use the trailer and drop it off. No maintenance, headaches, etc.
Another thought, you can rent a trailer here in mid-michigan for $50-60/day that will handle the 1100. If the trailer will only be used occasionally, this option could work. Give the rental company $55, use the trailer and drop it off. No maintenance, headaches, etc.
Mark.Sibole
Well-known member
If it were me bare minumun would be a 8x12 tandem axle.8x12 fives toy about 6 feet wide bed space and the 12 will be fine for your machine unless you plan on towing it with the plow on then a 8x16.But if you have no plans on trailering it with a plaw then a 8x12 taddom axel if the ticket..Anytrhing smaller your asking for trouble..
I agree with the consensus that a tandem axle trailer being the best for the task. I have a 6x12 single axle utility trailer (bought way before I owned a RTV) that worked great for me to go 12 hours away to purchase my RTV, a used RTV-900. I towed it all the way home, even went over the WV turnpike (always going up or down a hill and hardly a straight stretch). The trailer did GREAT. Since that trip I have towed to the dealer two times, without issues.
I believe it is safe as it is 300 lbs under the weight limit with the RTV loaded, but a dual axle w/ brakes would indeed be safer.
I believe it is safe as it is 300 lbs under the weight limit with the RTV loaded, but a dual axle w/ brakes would indeed be safer.
don bon jovi
Member
Hi Xtrooper! I'm sorry it is a Beartrack. The one l bought is 12' x 80" . Carrying capacity is 2320#,3500#torsion bar axle.Trailer weight is 670 #'s. I special ordered breaks and aluminum wheels. It came to $3100.00 .l have hauled it several times already and it just floats down the road...so far l'm very happy with it. Borrowed it to a friend and l think he hauled buffalo's in high heels on it!! Dented the floor in 4 places!! I put big rubber cow mats on it now,and it works very good.���� Some people can wreck a hammer and an anvil by noon???? If you have any ???'s contact me.....Bear Track Products ... Evansville, MN.
Just jumping in here to add a few other trailering requirements/ideas.
Remember to add the weight of any tie downs. I use 4 heavy duty chains and binders (Pa State laws). Any other misc. items you may want to include ; spare tire/wheel combo, jack, chocks, extra fuel for RTV, tools etc.
An added idea is to load RTV on trailer with windshield facing toward the rear to help prevent any road debris striking the very expensive piece of glass.
Keifer
Remember to add the weight of any tie downs. I use 4 heavy duty chains and binders (Pa State laws). Any other misc. items you may want to include ; spare tire/wheel combo, jack, chocks, extra fuel for RTV, tools etc.
An added idea is to load RTV on trailer with windshield facing toward the rear to help prevent any road debris striking the very expensive piece of glass.
Keifer
Since we're talking about trailers, I want to toss something out as it bit me in the butt.
If your trailer is more than about 10 years old, before you use it, give it a thorough inspection before using it. I consider a "normal" inspection is to check the tires for cracks and pressure, check all lights, vehicle connections and brakes if equipped.
On older trailers, crawl underneath and give it a full inspection. I had the U-bolts fail that hold the springs to the axle fail after hitting a large pot hole (the trailer literally jumped 5' into the air). Thankfully, the trailer was empty and I was able to limp it to my destination but I was 200 miles away from home and absolutely needed the trailer. A closer inspection showed a rear spring shackle (the one that's welded to the frame) was just about rusted through and although I was able to fix the U-bolts in the field, I didn't have a welder to weld on a new shackle. I ended up buying a new trailer and had to leave this one behind.
If your trailer is more than about 10 years old, before you use it, give it a thorough inspection before using it. I consider a "normal" inspection is to check the tires for cracks and pressure, check all lights, vehicle connections and brakes if equipped.
On older trailers, crawl underneath and give it a full inspection. I had the U-bolts fail that hold the springs to the axle fail after hitting a large pot hole (the trailer literally jumped 5' into the air). Thankfully, the trailer was empty and I was able to limp it to my destination but I was 200 miles away from home and absolutely needed the trailer. A closer inspection showed a rear spring shackle (the one that's welded to the frame) was just about rusted through and although I was able to fix the U-bolts in the field, I didn't have a welder to weld on a new shackle. I ended up buying a new trailer and had to leave this one behind.
Mark.Sibole
Well-known member
Since we're talking about trailers, I want to toss something out as it bit me in the butt.
If your trailer is more than about 10 years old, before you use it, give it a thorough inspection before using it. I consider a "normal" inspection is to check the tires for cracks and pressure, check all lights, vehicle connections and brakes if equipped.
On older trailers, crawl underneath and give it a full inspection. I had the U-bolts fail that hold the springs to the axle fail after hitting a large pot hole (the trailer literally jumped 5' into the air). Thankfully, the trailer was empty and I was able to limp it to my destination but I was 200 miles away from home and absolutely needed the trailer. A closer inspection showed a rear spring shackle (the one that's welded to the frame) was just about rusted through and although I was able to fix the U-bolts in the field, I didn't have a welder to weld on a new shackle. I ended up buying a new trailer and had to leave this one behind.
Anyone who does a lot of hauling with any trailer should have the sense to inspect their trailer monthly.Even as bad of shape I am in I still inspect my trailer .Thats how I notice rust and then can evaluate the damge to see if its safe or is in need of a steel patch.Its better to get a little dirty once a month than to sit on the side of the road wondering if thats really your RTV scattered all over the road...
don bon jovi
Member
I'm kinda just wondering if l blew 3 grand away! A lot of great advice!! I took the weight of my 1100 x out of the manual. I did not think of the weight difference between the ones with the cab or not!! Wow .... I will have to do a scientific study now
Mark.Sibole
Well-known member
if tou purchased the trailer new from a dealer you should be able to return it for another.which trailer did you get?
TRIBUTE100
Active member
Here's my trailer I bought used for $1200-1300, it was 3 years old then. It's interior measurements are 82" wide, 12' long, heavy duty ramp, dual axle with 5 lug wheels. Works great.
I learned after almost ruining the plexiglass windshield hauling it facing to the front with a tarp over it. I now haul it backwards. I attached a 2x4 on the bed at the point where the tongue weight matched the hitch max rating.
I learned after almost ruining the plexiglass windshield hauling it facing to the front with a tarp over it. I now haul it backwards. I attached a 2x4 on the bed at the point where the tongue weight matched the hitch max rating.
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OrangeBuggy
Active member
Nice set-up.
Trailer size
I've been looking for a trailer for my x900 / bx2670 with fel. I had a 18 ft with dovetail, just to long for my use. Now I am looking for a 6 1/2 ft by 14 ft dual axle with 1 brake axle at least for my use, I know there are a lot of 16ft trailers out there but I just don't need it, and hopefully I will keep this one for good. (said that before)
I've been looking for a trailer for my x900 / bx2670 with fel. I had a 18 ft with dovetail, just to long for my use. Now I am looking for a 6 1/2 ft by 14 ft dual axle with 1 brake axle at least for my use, I know there are a lot of 16ft trailers out there but I just don't need it, and hopefully I will keep this one for good. (said that before)
This topic is discussed a lot.....
So, the 18' is too long for your use because????
The 14' better suits your uses because???
Explain why a 14' is so much better than a 16'???
As I said in the beginning, this is discussed a lot. A close friend of mine "needs" a 16'. But his property parking space is extremely limited. So he bought a 10' single axle to haul his ATV. Now I get the privilege of hauling his "Jeep Buggy" with my larger trailers.....