X1100C No acceleration going "Down Hill' After Full service at Dealer .(See Post 16 for fix)

HBTexas

Well-known member
Gold Site Supporter
Hey Fellas, Ive had some heart troubles and been kinda down for a while . Feeling lazy and didnt have the energy to change fluids and whatnot so I Though.. "Well I will take it to the dealer and let them do it right " :pat::poop:
So Dropped of one day picked her up the next . Noticed coming off trailer something was different. ....
So I ride it around the property for a min .. Still climbs hills as well as it did maybe.. BUT NOW When you go DOWN the Hill
Let off peddle and trans does the breaking (as usual) BUT you push on the peddle when your ready NOTHING But rev engine till gets on to the bottom of the hill and then ZOOOOOm Takes off tossing your head into the headrest ..

Called the dealer he said bring it back ( half hour drive) Said they turned the trans pressure down ?/ Hmm being as I asked them to turn it up that was a dumb move .. And said they just dont do well on hills. Well .. It still climbs OK ... but something is for sure out of wack now.. Should have known , If ya wont something done right DO IT YOURSELF !

What do yall think they done wrong ?

I think I know what they did. The Hydraulic fluid dose not even read on the stick ! Is about 6 inches of fluid in the tank . But STICK READS DRY ! wtf? Full Service huh.. Hate to even admit what they charged for a PARTIAL Service .
I wont mention it to them I gong to let them turn the trans back up first ..
 
Last edited by a moderator:

HBTexas

Well-known member
Gold Site Supporter
Thanks Doc ! Its funny that little heart muscle ...... thats one ya dont want to mess with.
When we got good health we dont even think about it , till we dont !
 

ItBmine

Well-known member
You said there is nothing on the hydraulic dipstick? This was a lesson I learned when I did my 50 hour service. I thought they were separate reservoirs as the manual does not tell you to drain the hydraulics......but I found out otherwise when I removed the filters and a gallon of oil poured out in my driveway even though I had the trans drained.
Maybe just low on fluid? But then you said they monkeyed with pressures so I couldn't guess now??
 

HBTexas

Well-known member
Gold Site Supporter
So called the dealer about other day . He said bring it back in and they would turn the trans pressure back up .
Could do it while I waited , wouldnt take very long. SO. lol No charge and they were sorry . said its there fault !

This morning I took it to them . They looked at it a few mins in the shop . Said first thing the tech said was Tire were to big inch to tall and inch to wide and that could be causing the problem....:rolleyes:
(I put those on a year ago and have had 0 problems till the so called full service)
Said they CAN do it today but with the tire size they had to do a 20 point adjustment would take about 4 hours.. Hm ok
So asked him .. what exactly are yall gonna adjust.. ?
He claimed they were going to get the slack out of the throttle cable.. OK Turn the fuel up a bit to get more response OK and actually turn the trans pressure down a little more to give it more torque ,,,,,, was at 90 when took in and they set it to 89......
I dont see how Less trans pressure can equal More torque.. :unsure:...... But we will see.

And said they may have to send a tech out to my house to do the final adjustments.... :rolleyes:

Will see what happens .. OH And I still never told them they didnt fill the Hydraulic Tank Properly.. lol
 

ItBmine

Well-known member
Well hope they get it working properly again for you.

One question.....do you have another Kubota dealer you can start using?? If so run! LOL

Those guys scare me.
 

HBTexas

Well-known member
Gold Site Supporter
I have a Dealer about 45 miles away .. And will for sure take it to them next time.

The one here in Tyler Techs must not be to up on some of the RTV workings ?

Full service should include belt tension . and fresh hydro fluid.. belt still cherp a bit on startup till ya tap the pedal..
I dont know I guess I am getting bitchy in my old age ?

Picked it up this eve.. They filled the Hydraulic fluid ! lol
Made some adjustments too :( Now you get to push on pedal too many rpms to get it to move..
They claimed I needed more rpm before trans engagement ........ well now seem like running to many rpms when going slow. Not to mention my top end is no longer 25 on flat ground. More like 21-22 ... Pisses me off .
But dont think I want those guys messing with it again . Said may have to come out to property to make any final adjustment ..... well I think I could do it myself OR take to another dealer.. ?

I might get the WSM out and look into adjusting out the trans engagement a little ? Couldnt be hard ?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Doc

ItBmine

Well-known member
I haven't had to adjust mine, but one of the members on this forum did a really good write up a while back on how to do it.

I don't think you are getting bitchy.....you are like me.......you pay for a service you expect it to be done right. Those whole world seems to not care care any more. No one wants to work any more. It's truly sad.

Anyway, I'd make them come to your place (for free) and drive and tune it to spec. Then switch dealers!!!!
 

Doc

Admin
Staff member
Gold Site Supporter
I have a Dealer about 45 miles away .. And will for sure take it to them next time.

The one here in Tyler Techs must not be to up on some of the RTV workings ?

Full service should include belt tension . and fresh hydro fluid.. belt still cherp a bit on startup till ya tap the pedal..
I dont know I guess I am getting bitchy in my old age ?

Picked it up this eve.. They filled the Hydraulic fluid ! lol
Made some adjustments too :( Now you get to push on pedal too many rpms to get it to move..
They claimed I needed more rpm before trans engagement ........ well now seem like running to many rpms when going slow. Not to mention my top end is no longer 25 on flat ground. More like 21-22 ... Pisses me off .
But dont think I want those guys messing with it again . Said may have to come out to property to make any final adjustment ..... well I think I could do it myself OR take to another dealer.. ?

I might get the WSM out and look into adjusting out the trans engagement a little ? Couldnt be hard ?
If it were me I believe I would go that route. I would not want the shop that messed it up to touch it again. I'd do it myself if I felt I could or I'd take it to another dealer and work with them to make it right. Yes, it would cost more money, but the original dealer would cost you more in frustration and anxiety. Especially if the same inept tech touched your machine again.
 

HBTexas

Well-known member
Gold Site Supporter
Yes that would be great Aurthur,. But I am gonna have to wait till I am felling better than I am now.
A little Computer play., Some paperwork and few episodes of Gun Smoke and I am wore out. LOL
 
Last edited:

HBTexas

Well-known member
Gold Site Supporter
Video clip . Is all that slack in the cables what is causing the rpm before movement ?
I dont recall they being that much slack in those .
 

Attachments

  • VID_20211026_134411.mp4
    4.9 MB

aurthuritis

Well-known member
Site Supporter
do it in this order 1. disconnect the HST speed control lever from the rod at the back corner of the transmission.
2. disconnect the cable and hand throttle from the fuel control lever on the injection pump.
3. make sure the bell crank on the top of the transmission is in the neutral detent.
4. under the foot peddle is a stop bolt sticking up from the floor that limits the downward motion of the peddle. loosen the jamb nut an turn it down all the way.
5 gently push down on the peddle with your hand until you can feel the peddle bottom out in its own mechanism without touching the stop bolt. do this several times so you can get a good feel of the travel.
6. after you feel confident that you can move the foot peddle down to it's natural limit,hold the peddle there and adjust the stop bolt up until it touches the peddle. you now have full motion of travel available.
7. push the peddle down a few times and let it return and then check the bell crank just to make sure it returns to it's detent.
8. when you are confident the peddle has full travel and the bell crank returns to detent,push the peddle down against the floor stop bolt and get someone to hold it there or wedge it secure against the floor stop bolt.
9. take the hst speed control lever and move it to the max speed limit of the lever and then adjust the rod so that the bolt can be put back into the heim joint finger tight. readjust back toward the slow travel movement just a bit so the lever won't be held against the stop. tighten the bolt in the hst speed control lever.
10. adjust the cable that controls the fuel control lever on the fuel injection pump so that the lever is just touching the stop screw for maximum rpm. the idea is to touch the screw but don't stretch the cable. reattach the pin in the fuel control lever and then recconect your hand throttle if you have one.
11. un wedge the foot peddle and confirm the bell crank returns to it's detent and cycle the peddle a few times then re wedge or hold the peddle against the stop and check the hst speed lever and the fuel lever that the adjustment stayed.
12 start your engine and confirm that the machine doesn't creep forward in first gear engine idleing. it shouldn't.
13. next time i see you buy me a cup of coffee! congrats all done
 

HBTexas

Well-known member
Gold Site Supporter
Well . those dumb heads had the stop bolt all the way to the floor . Was not touching peddle at all (this would eventually stretch the cable huh?).
Got a little more travel from speed lever . Actually Its A LOT more responsive now . Runs like a scalded ape
Said they turned fuel up . but screw adjustment and lock nut still had factory saftey tab/wire on it.

BUT .. I still got to much rev goin on before it moves foward and even more reverse ..
I dont know what they adjusted to make it vroooooom then moves .
 
Last edited:

aurthuritis

Well-known member
Site Supporter
if you followed the instructions step by step then the rpm will barely change before it starts to move. for this to work you need to start from the beginning and work through the steps one by one. that way the relationship of the peddle/hst speed control and throttle will be in spec. no short cuts
 
Top