X900 Work Light Install

RandyB509

RandyB509

New member
I've already over-thought this 6 ways from Sunday, so bear with me... my goal was to install a rear-mounted worklight to facilitate moving irrigation water in my hayfield during the summer, which happens frequently at night. I ordered a spiffy Nilight 18042-C 20" light bar from Amazon, along with Nilight's heavy duty 12AWG pre-made harness with switch and relay.



My first concern is fishing the switch branch of the harness from the headlight switch area back to the battery, trying to keep it away from hot coolant or oil lines under the floor (there is not any excess length of harness to play with here). I suppose I should stop being lazy and just remove the skid pan to get better access and a clear view of things. Having the switch hot all the time is fine with me for this application. Has anyone run wiring in this fashion and what did you find to be the best route?

Secondly, there are two un-used accessory taps, one taped up behind the headlight switch, and another down by the battery. I didn't think about using these because they both appear to be only 16AWG and I didn't want to fry anything. The specs on this particular light bar are not clear - the description claims 420W (I seriously doubt it, maybe 420W-equivalent something) and scrolling farther down in the specs it says 160W. I suppose an email to the Nilight people is in order here. My X900 has no factory installed light options so maybe that's what these two circuits are? The Kubota Shop Manual shows a 20A blank location at fuse #12 and a 15A Worklight circuit at fuse #14 (not sure if both of these are relayed). If the light is actually a 160W then a 15A circuit would work. So the question is has anyone used either of these accessory taps for a worklight install?

Cheers, and sorry for the TL : DR !
 
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**UPDATE**

Found my multimeter... this light is only drawing 7.3 amps so Nilight's wattage specs are BS. The existing circuits would probably have worked just fine. I was looking to do something plug-n-play, but now I think I might have to fab some additional length to the switch branch of my harness, or try to use one of the existing accessory taps.
 
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I have a
RandyB509 said:
**UPDATE**

Found my multimeter... this light is only drawing 7.3 amps so Nilight's wattage specs are BS. The existing circuits would probably have worked just fine. I was looking to do something plug-n-play, but now I think I might have to fab some additional length to the switch branch of my harness, or try to use one of the existing accessory taps.
Click to expand...

I have always done a amperage draw test on the LED lighting I have installed and have found most lighting to draw below rated wattage specs.
At 430w this light should have drawn roughly 35a which sounds far too much current. At 7a, this can be easily switched with a 10a switch without the use of a relay.
 
I'm coming up with a plan for this, but need to ask what's the easiest way to access the floor area to run wiring - dropping the skid pan or popping the floor off from above?
 
Why don’t you run the wires down the left/rear ROPS post to the plastic shelf at the drivers left-hip... put a switch there...and wire it to the battery just behind that area with a fuse?
 
geohorn said:
Why don’t you run the wires down the left/rear ROPS post to the plastic shelf at the drivers left-hip... put a switch there...and wire it to the battery just behind that area with a fuse?
Click to expand...
That would be a doable solution... I guess I was just initially drawn to the switch blanks in the dash.
 
That flat space beside the driver ...you can cut a square or rectangular hole and snap a switch into it. Save the dash spots for LED Lightbars and winches, etc.
 
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