Another Coolant Leak Part Two

P

pop58

Active member
Thought I would start another thread to show the coolant leak I been looking for, for a month now, sense the other thread was getting a bit long.
And hopefully this might help someone else.

Amongst the other coolant leaks I have found which I showed in the other thread I have found another one and I hope it is the last one.

There is an outlet on top of my water pump with a cap and clamp on it. I believe this would be the outlet to the heater on a 1100 but on the 1120 it is just capped off.

The first picture is of the cap and clamp and the second picture is a bottom view off the cap leaking. You will see a slight green coolant line just below the clamp at the bottom of the cap.

I tightened the clamp to see if this will stop the leak. If not I will tell the dealer to order me a clamp and cap and that I will replace it myself.

Anyone have any ideas as to a good sealant to use if I have to replace the cap and clamp. I know I shouldn't have to use any sealant but im about tired of coolant leaks.:mad:

Thanks for listing.

DSC00001-1.jpg

DSC00009-1.jpg
 
D&D Farm

D&D Farm

Gold Site Supporter
Gold Site Supporter
How about plain ol plumbers goop..........The white stuff that is in a little jar that one applies to pipe thread that stops most any kind of bypass leak.........

First though, I would take off the old one, clean up the whole thing really good, and then using the new clamp, tighten down firmly...............NOT TO HARD.........Often times putting that extra tighten to it will cause a gizmo to leak as that extra puts a bit to much of a crinkle in it...........God bless.........Dennis
 
P

pop58

Active member
Agree with over tighten might cause it to leak more.
The clamp looked a bit to tight to begin with.
It is still under warranty though and I didn't want to take it off till the dealer said ok.
I most likely will do that anyway.
 
C

CornerstoneFarm

Member
Interestingly I was coming here to check the old thread to see when I last posted about a leak. It hasn't leaked since and the only difference is that I am not filling the overflow container. It's staying on LOW now.

And it's been run up to 3 bars on the thermostat gauge, plowing snows and such. Running the heater. And now no leaks since January 13th.
 
Kanook

Kanook

Active member
Out of running the risk of being accused of being 'kinda dumb' by others, May I ask if you wouldn't by chance have been filling the reservoir to the upper mark when engine is cold? I made that error in the past and couldn't figure out why my reservoir kept dropping to the low mark level......Just askin'.
 
S

SpudHauler

Active member
Site Supporter
McMaster Carr have spring clamps and bolt clamps.

Either are actually better than the standard hose clamp.

Spring clamp always exerts a little pressure so works well.

Bolt clamp has smooth inner surface that does a better job of not shredding the hose itself.

Over tightening is a big issue will all hoses.


Matter of fact the other clamp in the first pic might be a spring clamp.


.
 

Attachments

  • HoseClamp.jpg
    HoseClamp.jpg
    42.7 KB · Views: 157
C

CornerstoneFarm

Member
Kanook, thanks, no question is dumb! I added to it when it first leaked... it blew quite a bit out all over my neighbors parking area. Then it didn't leak but on occassion, I added but never added above the original amount that was in the machine. Coolant was flushed and replaced at 50 hours because the first dealer sold it to me with the wrong mix in it. I marked the tank to where they had filled it which wasn't quite half way between high and low. I've topped it off several times after leaking to bring it to the mark. I even made a second mark slightly lower and kept only adding to that mark. It's only recently gone completely down to the low mark and might be a quarter inch below it. That's when I started to notice it didn't leak any more.

I would assume they put the correct amount in when the dealer flushed it but like I said they don't seem to sharp so they might have just filled it to my lines!
 
C

CornerstoneFarm

Member
spudhauler, depending on what my tractor guys like to put on the big equipment. I am tired of playing around with these kids that work on 4 wheelers. But more then likely it will be a spring type clamp.
 
D&D Farm

D&D Farm

Gold Site Supporter
Gold Site Supporter
Kanook said:
Out of running the risk of being accused of being 'kinda dumb' by others, May I ask if you wouldn't by chance have been filling the reservoir to the upper mark when engine is cold? I made that error in the past and couldn't figure out why my reservoir kept dropping to the low mark level......Just askin'.
Click to expand...


Surely not .........NOT..........dumb Bud........Betting that this is a problem for lots of guys depending upon the situation.....They fill the bottle up to full, heat up the engine by working a bit, come back and park it and see a puddle under the machine a bit later. Then they check the bottle and it is lower........MUST be leaking or getting to HOT?????...........then while it's cool fill it again and get the same results......

Instead, as is being suggested..........take note of where the level of fluid is. Work the machine a bit, making sure to watch the heat temp gauge, and then check out the bottle. Do the same thing over and over to see if the level is actually getting lower.........See if the lowering finally stops...........THAT is the point you are after......

My 76 BMW motorcycle has used 1/2 of the measurable range on the oil dipstick and then stops consuming since it was new.......Same with my Merc 320SLK..........Could be the same with coolant level on the RTV?????? God bless........Dennis
 
M

Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
You could put a thin film of rtv sealant on the pipe before tou add the hose and clamp.Yhis may help the seal and should hold the temps with no issues.Just a thought
 
C

CornerstoneFarm

Member
Interesting... manual, page 60

'In case of leakage, add anti-freeze and water in the specified mixing ratio up to the full level."

I've never filled it to the full level nor have I ever seen it at the full level.... weird.

in the flush and change coolant... after the radiator has been filled with coolant and distilled water... step 8

"Fill with fresh distilled water up to the "FULL" mark on the recovery tank."

Totally the opposite of what I would think!!!
 
C

CornerstoneFarm

Member
Kanook, I am so glad you brought that full and low mark up! I would not have gone back and read the manual just to see what it said. Amazing. I didn't read that before because I thought I knew how to fill the darn radiator! LOL

Most of my tanks are marked HOT and COLD.
 
D&D Farm

D&D Farm

Gold Site Supporter
Gold Site Supporter
Kanook said:
Out of running the risk of being accused of being 'kinda dumb' by others, May I ask if you wouldn't by chance have been filling the reservoir to the upper mark when engine is cold? I made that error in the past and couldn't figure out why my reservoir kept dropping to the low mark level......Just askin'.
Click to expand...


Surely not .........NOT..........dumb Bud........Betting that this is a problem for lots of guys depending upon the situation.....They fill the bottle up to full, heat up the engine by working a bit, come back and park it and see a puddle under the machine a bit later. Then they check the bottle and it is lower........MUST be leaking or getting to HOT?????...........then while it's cool fill it again and get the same results......

Instead, as is being suggested..........take note of where the level of fluid is. Work the machine a bit, making sure to watch the heat temp gauge, and then check out the bottle. Do the same thing over and over to see if the level is actually getting lower.........See if the lowering finally stops...........THAT is the point you are after......

My 76 BMW motorcycle has used 1/2 of the measurable range on the oil dipstick and then stops consuming since it was new.......Same with my Merc 320SLK..........Could be the same with coolant level on the RTV?????? God bless........Dennis
 
S

SpudHauler

Active member
Site Supporter
All catch tanks are marked HOT and COLD.

Cold is the accepted level when the engine is cold.

And of course the fluid expands into the catch tank when the engine is hot and therefor the HOT is the top level for a hot engine.

It allows checking your coolant level either hot or cold but does make it confusing because the engine has to be dead cold (off for 2 or 3 hours) or up to temperature as in having run for at least 20 minutes.

The rad is constantly dumping or sucking fluid from this container depending if it is cooling down or heating up which helps to maintain a constant full radiator and cooling system.

That's the mechanics of it.
 
S

SpudHauler

Active member
Site Supporter
No problem Kanook.

Wish I still had my 1100, really miss it with the snow due tomorrow.

Have a great winter!
 
S

SpudHauler

Active member
Site Supporter
Ha Ha Ha, those darn X models, everything is different.

Anyway, in the owners manual it probablys says Low is the cold engine mark and High the high temp mark.

Cornerstone, did you drive both the old version? Notice a huge difference in ride over rough ground?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top