Hello everybody; My wife and I are the proud owners of a newRTV900. My question is and without sounding stupid, how deep of water can I take this thru. One of thepaths to our upper main bee field has a small creek, about 6 feet wide, and sometimes depending on the time of year, spring thaw or heavy rains, it can be a foot deep. I certainly do not want to ruin this machine in any way. I need your advise. Thanks Terry in western N.Y. state.
Crossing a small creek, how deep of water can I go?
- Thread starter territool
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You might look in your owners manual, but I think I read somewhere in there when I was doing maintenance on mine that the axles should not be submerged in water. I would not think that just momentarily going about axle deep just to cross a small creek would hurt though. Its just one of those common sense things I would think. That wouldn't be much different than driving it when it is raining and going through water puddles.
Terry,
I think the manual says something about going no deeper than the center cap on the wheels.
Now, I don't want to tell you to do anything beyond what the manual says but I can say that I've
gone through a foot of water with no problems.
Now, what I won't do (again), is go through mud that's up to the top of the seat cushion. That does cause issues...
I think the manual says something about going no deeper than the center cap on the wheels.
Now, I don't want to tell you to do anything beyond what the manual says but I can say that I've
gone through a foot of water with no problems.
Now, what I won't do (again), is go through mud that's up to the top of the seat cushion. That does cause issues...
We use our RTV all over our property andcross the Salinas River in three locations. While I do not recommend you going beyond what the Kubota manual says (center of the axle)..I can verify that we regularly cross the river and have had numerous occasions where the river isflowing thruthe cab(about 1"-2"). Having gotten stuck at this depth as well, everything has continued to operate fine and without issue. I run 27" Surefoot tireswith a 1.5-2" lift and a Ramsey 5000# winch..</P>
Hello All:
New to the forum but a 4 year owner of an RTV500. I thought I'd revive this thread as by now some of you will know more about the subject since it was first posted. I'm not a mudder or aggressive offroad with the Kubota, but where we hunt has some pretty deep water-filled holes to cross. I've had the 500 up to the floorboards (only 14") before with no issues, but there are times I may need 20". I learned the hard way that you can suck water into the engine if the entire engine is submersed but the breather is still out when I hit a hole I did not know was there and got stuck with the engine submerged. It ran for a few minutes while I tried to get it out then died. Water came in through the transmission fill and somewhere else, as it made it's way into the fuel system. I pulled the plugs and blew out the water, change the fluids twice and all has been well ever since. But, I don't want to do this again.
So, practically speaking, am I okay for very brief excursions covering the engine but not the air breather inlet, or is there a leak point that will come into play if the engine is submersed for a few seconds.
I'm in Florida. Avoiding water is just not an option sometimes. Feedback appreciated. Thanks.
New to the forum but a 4 year owner of an RTV500. I thought I'd revive this thread as by now some of you will know more about the subject since it was first posted. I'm not a mudder or aggressive offroad with the Kubota, but where we hunt has some pretty deep water-filled holes to cross. I've had the 500 up to the floorboards (only 14") before with no issues, but there are times I may need 20". I learned the hard way that you can suck water into the engine if the entire engine is submersed but the breather is still out when I hit a hole I did not know was there and got stuck with the engine submerged. It ran for a few minutes while I tried to get it out then died. Water came in through the transmission fill and somewhere else, as it made it's way into the fuel system. I pulled the plugs and blew out the water, change the fluids twice and all has been well ever since. But, I don't want to do this again.
So, practically speaking, am I okay for very brief excursions covering the engine but not the air breather inlet, or is there a leak point that will come into play if the engine is submersed for a few seconds.
I'm in Florida. Avoiding water is just not an option sometimes. Feedback appreciated. Thanks.
Hi GunnersJK. Welcome to our forums. I'm glad you revived this thread.
I bought my used RTV 900 in Dec of 2012, so I had not looked for or seen any of this type of info before. I regularly run through some 12" or greater deep mud holes on my main road to our river lot. I knew I was concerned about the mud but I had not considered other possible issues from the high water. Getting these holes filled / fixed somewhat is on my to do list. It has now moved up in priority once the holidays are over.
I bought my used RTV 900 in Dec of 2012, so I had not looked for or seen any of this type of info before. I regularly run through some 12" or greater deep mud holes on my main road to our river lot. I knew I was concerned about the mud but I had not considered other possible issues from the high water. Getting these holes filled / fixed somewhat is on my to do list. It has now moved up in priority once the holidays are over.
The main thing I see with the RTV that becomes an issue when crossing water, is that you will eventually get stuck and then the depth matters.
Areas of concern when thinking of water entry; front differential, transmission, air filter, fuel tank, coolant tank, hydraulic tank and battery.
The front differential has a vent line that ends up in under the hood so is quite high, but you need to make sure it's attached and not leaking.
The transmission filler cap needs replacing with one made to attach a vent line routed up higher than it currently is at, which is the height of the transmission itself.
The air filter has a purge valve that is quite low and may leak, otherwise the intake is at least at seat level, high intake with remote air filter is the answer here.
Fuel tank is vented up high as well, but make sure it's vent line is in good shape.
Coolant tank under seat has no vent line, just vents under the cap.
Hydraulic tank I believe has a vent line but can't remember where it gets routed, so check it's condition and location.
Battery top on my RTVs had vented cap so height of battery is an issue, no vent battery would fix this issue.
So the "leak" with the lowest point is the depth you are most likely going to start getting issues with.
Just some of the issues a water crossing junkie would consider when making a swamp buggy or water proofing a rig.
Hope this helps.
Areas of concern when thinking of water entry; front differential, transmission, air filter, fuel tank, coolant tank, hydraulic tank and battery.
The front differential has a vent line that ends up in under the hood so is quite high, but you need to make sure it's attached and not leaking.
The transmission filler cap needs replacing with one made to attach a vent line routed up higher than it currently is at, which is the height of the transmission itself.
The air filter has a purge valve that is quite low and may leak, otherwise the intake is at least at seat level, high intake with remote air filter is the answer here.
Fuel tank is vented up high as well, but make sure it's vent line is in good shape.
Coolant tank under seat has no vent line, just vents under the cap.
Hydraulic tank I believe has a vent line but can't remember where it gets routed, so check it's condition and location.
Battery top on my RTVs had vented cap so height of battery is an issue, no vent battery would fix this issue.
So the "leak" with the lowest point is the depth you are most likely going to start getting issues with.
Just some of the issues a water crossing junkie would consider when making a swamp buggy or water proofing a rig.
Hope this helps.
Okay, great feedback. I drive a Jeep and the process is similar. Raise the breathers then seal everything that is vulnerable. I wasn't sure if the diffs were fully sealed or had breathers. Front apparently does, rear must not. Trans appears to be vented through the cap and that could be a big problem if you are submersed and stuck, so I'll look into that. I'm thinking the air filter purge is how I got water in the last time. That's a weak point I may look into.
Really though, if I take care of some basics, know it's hard bottom and I don't hesitate I should be okay with water almost up to the seat. I've no interest in snorkeling it and turning it into a submarine.
Thanks for the input.
Really though, if I take care of some basics, know it's hard bottom and I don't hesitate I should be okay with water almost up to the seat. I've no interest in snorkeling it and turning it into a submarine.
Thanks for the input.
Not really on-topic - but knowing what's in the bottom of the creek is just as important as knowing your RTV. It's not a bad idea to walk it a couple of times to learn the holes and obstacles.
Up at our mining camp, we were downstream from a logging road crossing. While they were logging, the crossing was a simple ford that anything with decent clearance could cross. Off-years with no maintenance, the crossing was all boulders the size of wastebaskets or worse. With enough whitewater to hide the bottom and fool a few innocents every year. We pulled lot of vehicles out of there over the years. Up to and including a Forest Service dump truck!
Up at our mining camp, we were downstream from a logging road crossing. While they were logging, the crossing was a simple ford that anything with decent clearance could cross. Off-years with no maintenance, the crossing was all boulders the size of wastebaskets or worse. With enough whitewater to hide the bottom and fool a few innocents every year. We pulled lot of vehicles out of there over the years. Up to and including a Forest Service dump truck!
Gunner,
I was trying to cover all the possible issues. You select the ones most important to you, but being aware of the others is always helpful.
The rear diff is inside the transmission so no vent required.
The trany vent does the job.
Here is an example of one cut from a block of aluminum that would need a sealing o-ring like the one use on the existing filler cap and sized the same dimensions as the existing filler cap. Hose would go on the top and be vented up high.
Not sure of hose size required, but would go with at least 5/16" inside diameter and the end run up one of the rear roll-bar supports and looped back down like you often see them do. Small air filter on the end of the hose would be nice touch.
Of all the sealing issues, a high air intake and this trany seal would be my biggest concerns. Water in either of these two cause expensive damage quickly. Most other areas a good flushing will usually get you out of trouble.
I was trying to cover all the possible issues. You select the ones most important to you, but being aware of the others is always helpful.
The rear diff is inside the transmission so no vent required.
The trany vent does the job.
Here is an example of one cut from a block of aluminum that would need a sealing o-ring like the one use on the existing filler cap and sized the same dimensions as the existing filler cap. Hose would go on the top and be vented up high.
Not sure of hose size required, but would go with at least 5/16" inside diameter and the end run up one of the rear roll-bar supports and looped back down like you often see them do. Small air filter on the end of the hose would be nice touch.
Of all the sealing issues, a high air intake and this trany seal would be my biggest concerns. Water in either of these two cause expensive damage quickly. Most other areas a good flushing will usually get you out of trouble.
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As long as you extend you crankcase and diferential vent lines and aslo xtent your air intake you should be able to sunberg the rtv as deep as you want.I posted a picture of twoguns buddy who submergs his rtv in the swamp.there is pictures of him with the door open an the watr is half way to the seat..another thing is get a tube of dieletric gresse an put a good amount in each eletrical connection this will stop reosion an keep the currents flowing an the water out.but like I said extend all vents and air intakes an use the grease an you will be good to go.if you don't do any of them thing I would stay away from deep water.
Mark.Sibole
Well-known member
Here is my take on it.Ive had water running across the floorboards on mine on more than 1 occasion.Passing through a small creek shouldnt be a problem.But remember it isnt a Boat lol.
As long as it isnt submurged for long periods of time and you DONT get water in the air intake or the water dosnt excede the top of the tranny where the black filter vent is you should be OK.But if you get beyond that id do a fluid check to be sure no water got in
As long as it isnt submurged for long periods of time and you DONT get water in the air intake or the water dosnt excede the top of the tranny where the black filter vent is you should be OK.But if you get beyond that id do a fluid check to be sure no water got in
When I worked as a fleet mechanic for a delivery company the problem of crossing water became a real headache. When I would pull the front wheels for an inspection I would find hubs with water\rust and spun bearings quite often. Once I had a supervisor that got into some real trouble crossing a creek and I drained over fifteen gallons of water out of a 6B Cummins engine, really. I gave a talk to the drivers and said when they got their nuts wet they were in too deep, on the rims that is. 
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I made some time today to look over how the RTV500 is set up for water, taking into account comments made above. Definitely an effort was made by the factory to protect against water.
The front diff has a breather tube all the way up into the underhood cavity, so it is good for about 4 inches of water above the top of the front tire. The transmission fill has a tube leading up as high as the air inlet behind the seat, so assuming it seals when seated properly it is good for immersion. There is another tube coming off the engine area, also terminating at the air inlet. I'm assuming it allows for the crankcase, but maybe not.
Then there is the air cleaner. It has the evacuator valve. That would appear to be the weakest link for prolonged immersion. But for quick in and outs, in theory anything that gets in could drain back out pretty easily.
Conclusion: Okay for a quick dunk up to depths equal to the bottom of the seat, or even a little deeper, but no long runs. Much more than a few seconds and water could be in the carb.
And check fluids after.
Thanks for all the input. Hopefully this keeps me out of trouble.
The front diff has a breather tube all the way up into the underhood cavity, so it is good for about 4 inches of water above the top of the front tire. The transmission fill has a tube leading up as high as the air inlet behind the seat, so assuming it seals when seated properly it is good for immersion. There is another tube coming off the engine area, also terminating at the air inlet. I'm assuming it allows for the crankcase, but maybe not.
Then there is the air cleaner. It has the evacuator valve. That would appear to be the weakest link for prolonged immersion. But for quick in and outs, in theory anything that gets in could drain back out pretty easily.
Conclusion: Okay for a quick dunk up to depths equal to the bottom of the seat, or even a little deeper, but no long runs. Much more than a few seconds and water could be in the carb.
And check fluids after.
Thanks for all the input. Hopefully this keeps me out of trouble.
