I'm not seeing a happy face?
I'm thinking this might be the happy face he sees
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New project - 4WD Articulated Tractor
- Thread starter Mith
- Start date
I'm thinking this might be the happy face he sees
Bindian
Member
The cyclonic air filter is also on the larger Mahindras.Ted, the air intake is a cyclonic air filter, an option on the larger Briggs engines. Its the same filter you'll find on the larger Deere and Kubota mowers.
I'm not seeing a happy face?
hugs, Brandi
Quincy (& Jim),
A mirror of your thoughts of interests are gaining momentum over here as well.
Wasn’t kidding about a small following of friends who ask “How’s that English Guy Doin’ on His R’ticulated??”
Jim, this may be the least expensive way (FREE) to protect your collective work and engineering notes from companies and manufacturers that exploit others ideas and make them their own:
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/y2006/0201124.html
There just shouldn’t be anyone getting a free ride from all of your work.
Mark
Doc, maybe when its done I'll think about making some sort of technical write up. I'd like to do something on the backhoe, I've had alot of requests for details on that, but in a truly selfish manner I wont give up details of the geometry for nothing.
Quincy and Mark, way to put the pressure on
I'm pleased the project has drawn so much interest. I tend to keep the projects quiet locally, don't want to encourage the local thieves, so its nice to have some feedback. You guys know more about it than my neighbors
Mark, I don't think there is anything here that is worthy of a patent, just other peoples old ideas rehashed. I don't think there is anything new. If there is, go ahead and patent it, just remember me if you get rich
I've got all the major components now, so when I get my act together we should see some faster progress. All this chat and no pictures? Shame on me. To be fair, I haven't done much, just lots of time consuming fiddling. I've got the hydraulic tank full or water to test for leaks. Didn't do too badly, a few seeps and 2 dribbles. I'll patch them later in the week. The galvanized fittings I used welded really badly, I don't think they were very decent quality steel. Live and learn I guess. Saved $120 over using bulkhead fittings though. A 1.5" BSP bulkhead fitting is $40 alone.
Anyway, got a pedal I like (and a damper on the foot plate). Needs a little grinding, but you get the idea.
Quincy and Mark, way to put the pressure on
I'm pleased the project has drawn so much interest. I tend to keep the projects quiet locally, don't want to encourage the local thieves, so its nice to have some feedback. You guys know more about it than my neighbors
Mark, I don't think there is anything here that is worthy of a patent, just other peoples old ideas rehashed. I don't think there is anything new. If there is, go ahead and patent it, just remember me if you get rich
I've got all the major components now, so when I get my act together we should see some faster progress. All this chat and no pictures? Shame on me. To be fair, I haven't done much, just lots of time consuming fiddling. I've got the hydraulic tank full or water to test for leaks. Didn't do too badly, a few seeps and 2 dribbles. I'll patch them later in the week. The galvanized fittings I used welded really badly, I don't think they were very decent quality steel. Live and learn I guess. Saved $120 over using bulkhead fittings though. A 1.5" BSP bulkhead fitting is $40 alone.
Anyway, got a pedal I like (and a damper on the foot plate). Needs a little grinding, but you get the idea.
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Jim be VERY careful welding galvanized metal!! The gases coming off welding it can KILL you!! The galvanize prevents a good weld, so it needs to be ground off the base metal where the weld will go. Get the galvanize off the immediate weld area & it'll weld just as normal. When welding the galvanized stuff, set a fan on low behind you so as to blow the fumes away from you. We wanna keep you around a while....many people who've welded this stuff aren't with us any longer!
olcowhand,
DITTO!!!
This is what I do (Jim & Others)....
I use a 60% -%40 solution of Muriatic acid and water. I NO LONGER fool around with welding, grinding or shaping any metal which has been galvanized. Instead, I dip ALL my parts in a 5 gallon plastic pail of the above solution and these parts are stripped and absolutely spotless with no traces of galvinized materials. It only take 1 hour to strip the most aggresive hot dipped galvanized parts imagineable.
THIS STUFF WORKS!! And Muriatic acid can be had at any hardware store inexpensively.
I retrieve all of these parts with a strong magnet and rinse them off with clean water. They are ready to weld without any hazardous fumes. This is especially good for anything 'piped' into hydraulic related systems.
Mark
DITTO!!!
This is what I do (Jim & Others)....
I use a 60% -%40 solution of Muriatic acid and water. I NO LONGER fool around with welding, grinding or shaping any metal which has been galvanized. Instead, I dip ALL my parts in a 5 gallon plastic pail of the above solution and these parts are stripped and absolutely spotless with no traces of galvinized materials. It only take 1 hour to strip the most aggresive hot dipped galvanized parts imagineable.
THIS STUFF WORKS!! And Muriatic acid can be had at any hardware store inexpensively.
I retrieve all of these parts with a strong magnet and rinse them off with clean water. They are ready to weld without any hazardous fumes. This is especially good for anything 'piped' into hydraulic related systems.
Mark
Bindian
Member
Mith,
Do you have any photos of a BSP bulkhead fitting? Here is a link to aircraft fittings. http://www.skygeek.com/hardware-an-fittings.html. They come in mild steel and also stainless steel. Don't know about galvanized.
hugs, Brandi
Do you have any photos of a BSP bulkhead fitting? Here is a link to aircraft fittings. http://www.skygeek.com/hardware-an-fittings.html. They come in mild steel and also stainless steel. Don't know about galvanized.
hugs, Brandi
Thanks for your concern guys. I ground off the zinc in the weld area, and used appropriate caution with regards to any fumes.
I think the base metal was just so poor it wouldn't weld well.
Brandi,
these are plated mild steel. Basically an extended male to male adaptor with a locknut. Up to about 1" the price is sensible, but after that it doubles every 1/4" you add. Same with hose. The 1.5" suction hose will cost about $100. I would imagine I'll have $1500 is hose easily.
The fittings I used in the tank are galvanized plumbing fittings, from $2 to $10. About 1/10 of the price.
I think the base metal was just so poor it wouldn't weld well.
Brandi,
these are plated mild steel. Basically an extended male to male adaptor with a locknut. Up to about 1" the price is sensible, but after that it doubles every 1/4" you add. Same with hose. The 1.5" suction hose will cost about $100. I would imagine I'll have $1500 is hose easily.
The fittings I used in the tank are galvanized plumbing fittings, from $2 to $10. About 1/10 of the price.
Do you know why Mark?
I would assume its to do with flakes falling off into the fluid, or the fact they wont hold pressure. Dont know, not heard that before. I know copper is a no-no, but didnt realise galvanised was.
I can always remove the zinc from the fittings (where it isnt already removed for welding).
I would assume its to do with flakes falling off into the fluid, or the fact they wont hold pressure. Dont know, not heard that before. I know copper is a no-no, but didnt realise galvanised was.
I can always remove the zinc from the fittings (where it isnt already removed for welding).
Bindian
Member
Jim,
I think Mark is on to something. I seem to remember something about that also. Might be the heat build up causes the fittings to loose some compostion and contaminate the fluid and could cause harm to your pumps and actuators (cylinders).
hugs, Brandi
Bindian hit the nail on the head =
Heat and line surges loosen the galvanized coating internally. The partially dissolved coating becomes ingested by the pump and causes premature valve spool and pump failure.. . Plus welding metal that's galvanized produces 'galvanic re-deposition'.... a fancy term for molten galvanized coatings that resurface and adhere on, or near welds.
FROM Vickers Mobile Hydraulic Manual:
"...Malleable iron fittings are suitable for inlet, return and
drain lines only. Galvanised pipe or fittings have no place in
a hydraulics system, except to connect cooling water to heat
exchangers. The zinc has adverse effects on some types of oil
additives and could also flake off and cause unit failure."
Mark
Heat and line surges loosen the galvanized coating internally. The partially dissolved coating becomes ingested by the pump and causes premature valve spool and pump failure.. . Plus welding metal that's galvanized produces 'galvanic re-deposition'.... a fancy term for molten galvanized coatings that resurface and adhere on, or near welds.
FROM Vickers Mobile Hydraulic Manual:
"...Malleable iron fittings are suitable for inlet, return and
drain lines only. Galvanised pipe or fittings have no place in
a hydraulics system, except to connect cooling water to heat
exchangers. The zinc has adverse effects on some types of oil
additives and could also flake off and cause unit failure."
Mark
Cheers guys, time to replace the galvanised fittings with malleable iron ones. The ones welded into the tank just need cleaning up, they are just straight pipes so I can grind the coating off the inside.
Lucky I posted here and you guys picked up on it, could have been expensive. Just got to find a supplier for non-galvanised fittings now....
Lucky I posted here and you guys picked up on it, could have been expensive. Just got to find a supplier for non-galvanised fittings now....
Jim,
I wouldn't replace them. I would remove them and give them the one hour soak in Muriatic acid. Once their rinsed off....you have the malleable iron fittings (spotlessly cleaned) and ready to reinstall.
I currently wash all of my small metal parts (not just galvanized) due to the humidity and the surface rust it causes, before I weld anything. The stuff runs about $3. for a gallon container and can be dilluted by as much as 20-1. but you have to remember it's HYDROCHLORIC ACID, and why they use the generic term Muriatic is beyond me. Here's a little something from one of those chemical websites:
"Muriatic Acid is a strong, corrosive, inorganic acid (HCl), manufactured by absorbing hydrogen chloride in water. It is one of the most corrosive of acids, and is particularly destructive to cellulose, breaking the cellulose chain into even smaller units, resulting ultimately in its complete hydrolysis. It is the same chemical as Hydrochloric Acid.
Wear protective clothing, rubber gloves and plastic safety glasses while using. To etch or clean concrete and masonry or metal:
Dilute to desired strength by adding acid carefully to water, avoid splashing.
Start with a highly diluted mixture and strengthen gradually (1 part acid to 20 parts water).
Apply solution. Bubbling indicates solution is strong enough.
Flush thoroughly with clean water and immediately after cleaning or etching is complete."
I wouldn't replace them. I would remove them and give them the one hour soak in Muriatic acid. Once their rinsed off....you have the malleable iron fittings (spotlessly cleaned) and ready to reinstall.
I currently wash all of my small metal parts (not just galvanized) due to the humidity and the surface rust it causes, before I weld anything. The stuff runs about $3. for a gallon container and can be dilluted by as much as 20-1. but you have to remember it's HYDROCHLORIC ACID, and why they use the generic term Muriatic is beyond me. Here's a little something from one of those chemical websites:
"Muriatic Acid is a strong, corrosive, inorganic acid (HCl), manufactured by absorbing hydrogen chloride in water. It is one of the most corrosive of acids, and is particularly destructive to cellulose, breaking the cellulose chain into even smaller units, resulting ultimately in its complete hydrolysis. It is the same chemical as Hydrochloric Acid.
Wear protective clothing, rubber gloves and plastic safety glasses while using. To etch or clean concrete and masonry or metal:
Dilute to desired strength by adding acid carefully to water, avoid splashing.
Start with a highly diluted mixture and strengthen gradually (1 part acid to 20 parts water).
Apply solution. Bubbling indicates solution is strong enough.
Flush thoroughly with clean water and immediately after cleaning or etching is complete."
Mark, hydrochloric acid, would battery acid do? We just dont have the variety of products you guys have, I cant think of a shop around here that is going to sell bottles of acid, unless its for a particular thing, like battery acid. (The town I live near pretty much consists of charity shops, fast food and supermarkets, with a handful of 'worthwhile' shops hidden on the outskirts).
Found some time in the workshop. Progress was slow due to the heat but some stuff got done. Nearly all the controls are in place, which is a great excuse to sit in the seat and 'test' (and slack off).
The framework around the steering wheel is going to be the bones of the dash and bulkhead unit. The valve unit beside the seat controls all the lifts and accessories. Other side of the seat will be the valves to control the drive bias.
Started on one of the pump mounts, when all 3 are done I can start ordering hoses which will signify the beginning of the end of the project.
Found some time in the workshop. Progress was slow due to the heat but some stuff got done. Nearly all the controls are in place, which is a great excuse to sit in the seat and 'test' (and slack off).
The framework around the steering wheel is going to be the bones of the dash and bulkhead unit. The valve unit beside the seat controls all the lifts and accessories. Other side of the seat will be the valves to control the drive bias.
Started on one of the pump mounts, when all 3 are done I can start ordering hoses which will signify the beginning of the end of the project.
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BoneheadNW
Member
Jim-
It is really looking good. Once you have the thing up and running, could you take some video and post it to YouTube or something similar?
Bone
It is really looking good. Once you have the thing up and running, could you take some video and post it to YouTube or something similar?
Bone
N
Nicahawk
Guest
Jim, is there a vacant house next to you..........I want to be your next door neighbor............
Hey budddddddyyyyyyy, can you lend me a hand for a minute............
Hey budddddddyyyyyyy, can you lend me a hand for a minute............
Thanks Jerry.
Dean, I've got a fitting swimming in battery acid right now to see if it works. What would a brickie use acid for? Thats where I'll look if the battery acid doesnt work, thanks for the thoughts.
Bone, best video I can do doesnt have sound, but I'll sort a video
Nica, give it 6 months and this house might be on the market, then you can have me at the bottom of your garden (but only if you let me play on your tractor)
Dean, I've got a fitting swimming in battery acid right now to see if it works. What would a brickie use acid for? Thats where I'll look if the battery acid doesnt work, thanks for the thoughts.
Bone, best video I can do doesnt have sound, but I'll sort a video
Nica, give it 6 months and this house might be on the market, then you can have me at the bottom of your garden (but only if you let me play on your tractor
)