Its time to replace the u joints since one went bad. I've searched where most are talking about the 900 replacements. It looks like the 1100 may have a little bit larger u joint than the 900 from the aftermarket parts they are using. The cap is the same dia. at 0.984 or 25mm, but the cap to cap is 2.9035 or 73.66mm. the inside of the yoke is 1.945 or 49.6mm. It still uses the inside snap ring. Some are using the precision 397 which is 1.717 Width Including Clips (in) Axis or about 0.2280 shorter. That would be too much play, I don't think they would last. I've tried looking for standard and metric with no luck. You can get the correct cap size but not the width. Has anyone found a replacement without paying the Kubota price of $100. I want to replace all 4 to get it over with.
RTV1100 ujoint replacement
- Thread starter aarkie
- Start date
Good Luck Aarkie. I agree about getting it over with. Most of the work is the disassembly and then putting it back together- since you have to take the whole rear apart anyway. Are the Kubota's with grease fittings? I wish you the best of luck and if you find some please post. By the way check with messicks equipment on line. earlier they had a promo going on for fluids and other things so it might work out to help with the actual cost over aftermarket.. collie
Bordercollie I looked at Messicks and they were the same price as I can get local. I have seen your post changing your u joints and hope I have it a lot easier getting them apart. Thanks for all of the pics you posted. I spent a hour or so trying to get the first cap out, trying several ways that has been talked about on this forum. I found a trick that let me get the caps out in just a minute or so and the one side I took apart was a snap then. All you need is a heavy hammer, a vise or a steel cradle to set the joint in, and a flat metal block to drive the cap out. I didn't take any pics but I still have the other side to do, I just needed to get measurements to try to find the joints. You can find the joints for a 900 on ebay for under 50 but there is not any listed for the 1100.
At the prices they are charging for them I wish they would hold a gun on you so you knew you were being robbed.
At the prices they are charging for them I wish they would hold a gun on you so you knew you were being robbed.
Thank you Aarkie . I was talking about a rebate thing that dealers had going on parts and frequently used items. I went back and read my email and unfortunately, it expired on 4/30 and had to be mailed by end of May.
I think it is called highway robbery.... just be glad you aren't working on the front end, and having to buy the entire front "boot assembly" instead of just the rubber boot - according to other members, it is ridiculous. Good luck I know you will whip this without shop rates at least.
collieMark.Sibole
Well-known member
What I did for the 900 is took out one of the joints that was pretty much in 1 piece and took it to the local autoparts store and they went through all of their joints till they found one that matches.Most local auto parts stores will do that for you if they are worth a damn. Good luck on it.There has to be one a lot cheaper.
Mark, I have done that with no luck. a couple said it must be metric so we can't help. I was hoping the 900 and 1100 would use the same u joint but no such luck. I had a list on numbers that other members have used on their 900's be fore I pulled it but after measuring them decided they would not work due to the shorter length. If I don't find something soon I'll have to pay their high prices.
Collie, I could count on one hand how many times I have paid shop rates in the last 10+ years. When I do its something big like changing the clutch on a tractor or something like that I don't have the time or equipment to do. I don't know how people can afford to pay someone do everything for them because they don't know which end of a screwdriver to hold.
Collie, I could count on one hand how many times I have paid shop rates in the last 10+ years. When I do its something big like changing the clutch on a tractor or something like that I don't have the time or equipment to do. I don't know how people can afford to pay someone do everything for them because they don't know which end of a screwdriver to hold.
I hear you on paying others to do repairs. I recently paid to have a lower ball joint put in my one ton pickup as declining health makes me well aware of my physical limitations. He told me it was not a fun job even with a lift and the proper tools. I still do most all repairs but real heavy stuff I get one of the Amish boys to help me with. Seems I am aging faster than my 16 year old truck.
I try to do my own too but if it is internal ,like inside the engine, I don't go there. I have a hard time paying somebody in one hour what it take me a day to make. I know my limits though. and I don't trust estimates unless written down.. At least at a dealership- been there before- They work it to their advantage. This is what almost happened to me on the first round u joint replacement. The dealership told me a grand for the rears... I did it myself, knowing that, thanks to a friend help on here and the shop rate book, that the estimate was for almost double what it should be...... collie
edit: muleman- I have one on ya..my truck is 20 years old and only 65,000 miles
edit: muleman- I have one on ya..my truck is 20 years old and only 65,000 miles
I Have seen and heard about other shops that when they fix one thing you have something else break a short time later. It seems like they do something to make it break. Or they tell you one thing is wrong and the real fix cost a lot less but you pay the high price anyway. They make the honest shops look bad and give all of them a bad name. It seems to me its more the dealerships than the small guy on his own.
The good news is I called around today and found one place that wants to start selling the u joints for the 1100 but needs a old one to get the right specs to have them made. I'm going to send them one of my old ones and see what happens. If all goes well in a month or so I will have them and will let everyone know how it works. They will be less than half the current cost. They already have them for the 900. He said he gets at least 20 calls a month asking about the 1100 and wants to start servicing them. I hate to leave it tore down and set that long but for the cost difference I think it will be worth it.
Collie, will I be able to give their name or website when I find out how they do if he comes thru and starts selling replacements?
The good news is I called around today and found one place that wants to start selling the u joints for the 1100 but needs a old one to get the right specs to have them made. I'm going to send them one of my old ones and see what happens. If all goes well in a month or so I will have them and will let everyone know how it works. They will be less than half the current cost. They already have them for the 900. He said he gets at least 20 calls a month asking about the 1100 and wants to start servicing them. I hate to leave it tore down and set that long but for the cost difference I think it will be worth it.
Collie, will I be able to give their name or website when I find out how they do if he comes thru and starts selling replacements?
Thank you aarkie. It is always nice to have a good source of joints. Sooner or later most all of us will need them. 
collie
collieI found a good place to get the u-joints for a RTV1100. I measured them against what I took out and they match up. They went in with no problems. I got them from the u joint store and they are only $25 apiece and you can grease them, a whole lot better then any other place I have found that matches up as the correct size. If you have to change them out you may want to change the wheel bearings at the same time. They are a 6206 double shielded. Thinking it would be easier to grease them I installed the grease fitting toward the inside on both bearings. This caused a problem on the inside u-joint with the rubber plug, it rubs on the nipple. Not wanting to take it apart and chance damaging the bearing I just cut off the nipple.
Hi Arkie, Good information. I use the "go advanced" when I post pictures and it works good for me.
I use the "go advanced" when I post pictures and it works good for me.http://www.theujointstore.com/kubota-rtv---k771101250.html
if this is against the rules would the mods please delete? here is a link to above said U Joint for the RTV
if this is against the rules would the mods please delete? here is a link to above said U Joint for the RTV
This link is not a problem.
Aurthuritis, that is the place. Like you I did not know if a link was allowed or not so I did not post it. Talking to the owner he seemed like a nice guy. Unlike some of the u-joints they have talked about in other post that you have to remove a few thousandths to make it fit or its a little shorter the Kubota's these were a good fit with just cleaning everything up and putting them in.
If you looked at the pictures I hope posted, I made sense on how I removed the old u-joint. If everything goes right you can have it apart in about 10 minutes or less.
If you looked at the pictures I hope posted, I made sense on how I removed the old u-joint. If everything goes right you can have it apart in about 10 minutes or less.
Here is a link to a few pictures I took of the new u-joints.
The first picture is comparing the old and new joints.
The second picture is how I removed the old u-joint. Without a press to take a u-joint apart. You can see one side of the joint is resting on the vice and the other part is resting on some wood to get it level with the vise. The less plat the better, that way you get a more solid hit. I the use a metal bar, it seems like a heaver one works better, lay it on the yoke just off the cap, and hit it with a small sledge. After a few hits it will usually break loos and come on out. If need spray it with penetrating oil and let it set for a little while, it may come loose easier.
The third picture is the new u-joints installed. Remember that they have to be lined up correctly or you can get some vibration from them. There is a couple of post other members have made that shows how to line the joints properly.
http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=77&pictureid=314
http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=77&pictureid=315
http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=77&pictureid=316
The first picture is comparing the old and new joints.
The second picture is how I removed the old u-joint. Without a press to take a u-joint apart. You can see one side of the joint is resting on the vice and the other part is resting on some wood to get it level with the vise. The less plat the better, that way you get a more solid hit. I the use a metal bar, it seems like a heaver one works better, lay it on the yoke just off the cap, and hit it with a small sledge. After a few hits it will usually break loos and come on out. If need spray it with penetrating oil and let it set for a little while, it may come loose easier.
The third picture is the new u-joints installed. Remember that they have to be lined up correctly or you can get some vibration from them. There is a couple of post other members have made that shows how to line the joints properly.
http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=77&pictureid=314
http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=77&pictureid=315
http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=77&pictureid=316
Thanks AARKIE! this information will save us all much in time and trouble. i appreciate the time you spent and then letting us all know. 