RTV900 Coast Valve Install

ovrszd

Well-known member
The instructions with my Coast Valve were very Vague. With proper instructions this install would take about 10 minutes. Took me 30 minutes. Yeah, I'm slow.......

The instructions say to remove the four bolts holding the bed lift hydraulic oil so it can be raised to access the 12mm hex head plug that needs removed.

Okay, no problem. Remove the bolts and raise the tank until it hits the bed. Yep, I see the plug. Remove it. Nope, wrong plug. It does nothing that I can tell. If you are at the back of your machine looking forward, it's staring you in the face once you raise the oil tank.

Hmmmmmmmm....... Can't see any other plug that fits the description. Feel around with my fingers. Awwwww,, there it is. Just below and to the left of the visible plug. The plug in question is vertical. You can't see the face.

Okay, remove the vertical plug and stick a magnet in the hole. Come out with a spring. Okay, according to the instructions this is accurate. Should next come out with the old valve. Nope...... Try and try. Finally make a wire hook to try and pull out the old valve. Nothing.

Okay, I'll crank the machine and raise the bed all the way so I can access the hole from the top. Not good. Well,,,,,, part of it was good. Instantly blew oil out the hole!!!!!! Shut it off!!!!! Dang it....... Floor dry...... Easily a cup of oil on the floor. Clean up the mess.

Okay, let's stick out finger down in the hole and feel what's going on.... Eureka!!!! The old valve is gone. Blew that sucker right out!!!!! Where's it at?? Look everywhere, can't find it. Who cares,,,, it's out!!!!!

Installed the new valve, then installed the retaining spring, then installed the hex plug.

Took it for a test drive. LOT'S better. Coasts to stop rather than skidding the rear tires. I'm gonna like this.

Back to the shop. Raise the bed and look for the old valve. Find it on top of the transmission case.

Refill the oil level and life is good. :)

If anyone is installing this valve and has questions, just ask.

Sorry, the stupid picture attachment device isn't working. I'll try again later. Sorry.
 

Wild Bill

Member
You know, If things were easy and went as planned it would take 3/4 of the fun (and time) out of projects. Glad you got it done and like the results.

I have not done mine. I've gotten used to it and kind of like it now.
Though I'm not sure if the earlier 900s react a little differently than the XT models.
 

avantiguy

Super Site Supporter
SUPER Site Supporter
You know, If things were easy and went as planned it would take 3/4 of the fun (and time) out of projects. Glad you got it done and like the results.

I have not done mine. I've gotten used to it and kind of like it now.
Though I'm not sure if the earlier 900s react a little differently than the XT models.

My 2004 900 has one and it just rolls to a stop as ovrszd describes over a relatively short distance. I also like it like this as I'm not on a lot of steep down hills.
 

Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
How much they charging for them now?I adjusted mine per someone on her cant remember but it makes a nice difference.May not be as smooth as a new valve but i have the best of both now .It dosnt slam you into the windshield but still allows for some dynamic braking.Mine is about ready to go down for maintaince pre winter repairs.Have 1 rear alxe joint bad and a mid shaft bearing gone again.JUst waiting on health to improve a bit as dizzy spells kicking my ass and way to many pain issues to deal with it right now.Wish I had someone close to help me or even do it for me with my guidance.Damn it sucks to get old with MS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

ovrszd

Well-known member
Mark, sorry to hear of your health issues. I always say if a man has good health, then regardless of what else is going on, he has nothing to complain about.

I don't remember to the penny, but paid somewhere around $175.

I kept my factory valve. This Winter when I get bored I'll try playing around with the adjustment and see if I can make it work like I want. Do you remember how much you changed the adjustment??

I've not had mine back in the timber yet. In a couple days I'll report my findings there. But so far, just messing around in the driveway, I like the change.

I still can't get pictures to upload but will keep trying.
 

Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
Richard.Ill look back at my bookmarks and see if i can find the link with the instructions i went by .I have aboout 3 trillian bookmarks lol so it may take some time.As soon as I can find the info ill PM it to you.
 

David69

Active member
The instructions with my Coast Valve were very Vague. With proper instructions this install would take about 10 minutes. Took me 30 minutes. Yeah, I'm slow.......

The instructions say to remove the four bolts holding the bed lift hydraulic oil so it can be raised to access the 12mm hex head plug that needs removed.

Okay, no problem. Remove the bolts and raise the tank until it hits the bed. Yep, I see the plug. Remove it. Nope, wrong plug. It does nothing that I can tell. If you are at the back of your machine looking forward, it's staring you in the face once you raise the oil tank.

Hmmmmmmmm....... Can't see any other plug that fits the description. Feel around with my fingers. Awwwww,, there it is. Just below and to the left of the visible plug. The plug in question is vertical. You can't see the face.

Okay, remove the vertical plug and stick a magnet in the hole. Come out with a spring. Okay, according to the instructions this is accurate. Should next come out with the old valve. Nope...... Try and try. Finally make a wire hook to try and pull out the old valve. Nothing.

Okay, I'll crank the machine and raise the bed all the way so I can access the hole from the top. Not good. Well,,,,,, part of it was good. Instantly blew oil out the hole!!!!!! Shut it off!!!!! Dang it....... Floor dry...... Easily a cup of oil on the floor. Clean up the mess.

Okay, let's stick out finger down in the hole and feel what's going on.... Eureka!!!! The old valve is gone. Blew that sucker right out!!!!! Where's it at?? Look everywhere, can't find it. Who cares,,,, it's out!!!!!

Installed the new valve, then installed the retaining spring, then installed the hex plug.

Took it for a test drive. LOT'S better. Coasts to stop rather than skidding the rear tires. I'm gonna like this.

Back to the shop. Raise the bed and look for the old valve. Find it on top of the transmission case.

Refill the oil level and life is good. :)

If anyone is installing this valve and has questions, just ask.

Sorry, the stupid picture attachment device isn't working. I'll try again later. Sorry.

You are funny!:clap:
 

ovrszd

Well-known member
Here's the pics I took, finally.... :)

After visiting with Mark it appears I went about this the hard way. His instructions indicate to come at this from the top with the bed raised.

Either way, the issue for me was getting the old valve out. If you use my method of starting the engine be quick on shutting it off to minimize the mess. :)
 

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aurthuritis

Well-known member
Site Supporter
that is a very different from my 2008 1100. i didn't know that the 1100 and the 900 were that much different other than the placement of the hydraulic tank. my valve was on the flat surface on the rear of the tranny. all i had to do was raise the bed and the spool came out with a small pick.
 

ovrszd

Well-known member
Yeah, I read somewhere that the transmission cases on the 1100 versus 900 were quite different.

I spent a couple hours in the timber this afternoon. Here's my findings.

Acceleration seems to be a bit softer. Not better or worse, just softer.

De-acceleration is quite different. The machine acts more like an Auto Tranny in a car or truck. If you crest a hill and come off the throttle for the descent it almost totally free-wheels. Just like your truck would do. If on flat ground and de-accelerate you don't notice that much difference and rarely have to use the brakes. But I think that's just because the ground speed is so slow that the resistance of the machine will usually bring it to a stop in a reasonable distance.

So,,,,, the driver's habits have to change. In steep terrain you find yourself using both feet a lot more. Left foot resting on the brake, right foot running the go pedal. This might be quite an adjustment for someone that is totally accustomed to the stock characteristics of the RTV.

Between the Coast Valve installation and the By-Pass Valve adjustment I never use the dash knob anymore. That's a good thing as that totally bugged me.....

This Winter I will try adjusting my stock valve and report the results. It seems the same effect can be achieved by adjusting rather than spending the money for a Coast Valve. We'll see.

Now for my personal feelings. I wheel an Auto Tranny Buggy. I'm very much accustomed to "two foot" driving. Actually in difficult situations I apply liberal throttle and then feather the brake pedal for vehicle movement. So this Coast Valve is a plus for me. It reduces that horrible shift binding, sudden stop syndrome of a stock RTV. I hated that. So I see it as a very good improvement.

I'll report my findings later as to whether buying the valve is justifiable over adjusting the stock valve. :)
 
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