Emax25L was mowing & just shut off. Won't restart.

[Sandelman]

While finishing mowing my back yard about 3 weeks ago, after gently backing towards a fence, I let off the peddle to go forward and the tractor shut off.
I thought that was strange, so I shut off the PTO, pressed in the clutch and turned the key. It fired up just like always but shut off after 2 seconds.
Since this has happened I have replaced the fuel filter, air filter, topped off the tank which was far from empty, replaced the fuel pump with OEM, swapped a couple relays with new to see if it made a difference. I have gravity bled the fuel system and gotten fuel to seep from the fuel injector nut when loosening to release air.
I have a problem trying to build pressure in the system to then release it because the tractor fires right up and then I feel like the pressure is gone.
It never has had any noticeable pressure when I crack the fuel filter bleeder, bleeder on diaphragm near the injector or the nuts on top of the injectors.
The fuel leaks out but there is no pressure, spray, squirt of bubbles behind it. Again I feel like it's because it's ran a cycle when it fires up and shuts off...but I have no knowledge of that fact.
I've also checked all the fuses in the motor mounted fuse compartment and have pulled the 4 larger fuses in the battery compartment on the left side if setting on the tractor.
I've checked the seat safety switch. If not setting on the tractor it will not start. I've flipped the raise / low levers for the deck, flipped the high low setting lever and if the clutch peddle is not pressed in it will not start. Also if I turn the PTO switch on, the tractor will not turn over. Maybe I'm wrong but due to how those tests went, it would seem that those switches are good, but again I just don't know.
It hadn't sat for an extended time before this, it's used regularly. It's always got fresh fuel in it and there have been no issues.
I got my multimeter out and set it to test 12 volts. I really have no idea how to use it other than to touch wires and see what it does. I connected it to the pos / neg on the fuel pump wires and another connector that is near the plug that had the same plug type just to see it there was a difference and there was not. It really didn't stay on any one number for long.

What else is there that I can check, where would it be located and how would I test it if you have any suggestions.

I'm a hands on person and maintain my own vehicles unless it's out of my league. My dump trailer control brake just stopped working so I have wires to chase there before I can try to load the tractor with a winch that I will have to temporarily mount to the trailer since the tractor won't start. Our dealer is about an hour away. Being retired and on a fixed income I can't afford the fee for the dealer to pick it up. Seems it's always something, ugh.

I would really like to buy a service manual or a work manual, which ever they call it. I have only found a couple online that are PDF and state not to buy if you want wire info because it's all blurred. I'd like to purchase the actual book to show how to work on and replace things.
If you have any info on one of those that would also be great.


If you have ANY helpful ideas I sure would appreciate it and thank you in advance.

Again, it fires right up, runs for 2-3 seconds, no more and shuts off. IF, I start ir and crank up the throttle is DOES rev up....but it's still the same time frame of 2-3 seconds.

 

[Fedup]

Next time you go out there open the hood and look in the right front corner of the engine. There should be a fuel shut off solenoid on the radiator side of engine timing cover. Just in front of the injection pump. A cylinder looking thing about three inches long or so with wires and harness plugs on it. This is probably what's your problem. It may be defective, may just not be getting power to turn it on, something like that. It probably has two circuits, one pull circuit and one hold circuit. The pull circuit is somehow tied to the start circuit so it gets power when the starter is engaged. The hold circuit should be tied to the ignition circuit so it stays on until you turn the key off. That's the "nutshell" version. Details vary from machine to machine so I can't get too specific. It's possible your problem is related to all of that. If the pull coil portion works the engine will start and run, then the hold coil comes on and keeps the unit in the "run" position so the engine will continue running until you turn it off. Good chance you have a problem right there. Maybe no power to hold coil, maybe a bad solenoid, something like that.

You can experiment with that an see hat you come up with. If worst comes to worst, you can unbolt the unit and slip it out. IF that's the problem the engine will start right up and run without it. It may sling some motor oil out the hole, but it will run until you push the unit back in, then it will shut off.

You might start there.

 

[Sandelman]

Thanks so much for the advice. Im very eager to get this fixed. These 2 items are the only cylinder looking pieces l can find. Would one of them be what your talking about?

 

[Fedup]

The one above the hydraulic pump looks promising. The three wires involved will be 1) ground 2) hot with starter 3) hot with key switch on. You might check that out.

 

[Sandelman]

The one above the hydraulic pump looks promising. The three wires involved will be 1) ground 2) hot with starter 3) hot with key switch on. You might check that out.

I can't tell you enough how much I appreciate your help. Wanted to let you know what I've identified so far.
First thing I did was connect a test light to a ground and stuck the point into the solenoid connector with 3 wires. One is white, black and red. Assuming the black is ground, it did not light, the white wire was hot after the key was turned and the tractor fired up and shut off. Then I checked the red wire and it did not light either which I thought was odd.
Then I removed the solenoid and with weight on the seat and weight on the clutch, I was able to turn the key off of the tractor to watch the solenoid. When the tractor fired up, the plunger sucked in and right at 2 seconds it popped back out......however, the tractor remained running until I slid the solenoid back into place. I was very tempted to try to cut our overgrown grass but didn't feel it safe. No liquid came out of the opening but that was at low idle. I was very happy to have made what feels like progress.
I am going to go out now and remove the dash panels so I can get to the ignition switch and fiddle with wires to make sure all is making contact.
With all that said, what are your thoughts? Is there anything to that red wire not causing the test light to glow?
Many thanks

 

[Fedup]

Unfortunately, every tractor maker has different ideas on how to power all those circuits. Some like to tie a seat switch, neutral switch, park brake switch, PTO switch, and sometime more into the mix. It could be as simple as a bad fuse, but something doesn't want the tractor to run. An operator aggravation module somewhere could be involved, but some use a combination of relays and diodes. The smaller Mahindras are pretty much TYM tractors so the electrical is probably similar to what they used. Typically when I run cross similar problems I make a few attempts to trace the simple things, then if that fails I look for an ignition circuit somewhere then add in a jumper wire so the "red" wire is live when the key is on. That usually works.

 

[Sandelman]

I thought I'd come back and let you know that it was a fuse. I thought I checked them but guess I didn't. The fuse panel label info is lacking a bit I think. There was one 7.5 fuse labeled "power". After pulling it, the part that was blown was not the visible but rather just inside the plastic red frame of the fuse. So glad for your help! Have a happy 4th Everyone. Thanks again.