Trans Fluid change

[Art454]

Just changed the trans fluid on my 2008...maybe its a 09 1100 at 100 hours and a complete waste of time.
Trans fluid goes to filter before its used so I figuerd it would be a waste of time.
Fluid was clean as new.
Did all the filters at 50 hours but manual says trans fluid at 400 hours.
Used a clean drain pan because if it was clean I was gonna reuse most of it after sitting a day and not use the very little left in bottom of drain pan.
There was not even any metal particles at the bottom of the used fluid after sitting a day but still threw out the last half gallon just to be sure.
Uses a metric allen wrench....make sure all the dirt is outa the hole and make sure it goes all the way in since I had to use a 1/2 breaker bar to get it loose.
Plug in mine was not magnet so did not see any shavings.
Ran the old fluid threw a screen filter twice and fluid looked like new so I'll save my new liquid gold for later.
Changed the engine oil as manual says at 100 hours to.
Took all the bolts out of bottom skid plates as they were tough to get out and put anti seeeze on them as that is almost a must....you wait to long bet half would break off before they would move if I waited a few more years.
Eveything else looked ok as I spent half the day checking it out.
Made me mad they put a grease zerk in the inner rear drivshafts but not the outers.
How stupid.
Later this summer I may change the front diff oil if am in the mood......lol

Art

 

[clueless]

it is not the cleanliness of the oil, but the lubricity of it. the trans has many swash-plate motors which generate the pressure for the trans to work, they are variable plate motors so there are bearings lubricated with the fluid also,plus the temperature that they run at also breaks down the fluid,and it loses its lubricity properties,and it is the unseen metals in suspension,brass,nickle and copper that does damage to the innards of the transmission.

they are expensive insides of the transmission, plus the valve block is over $1200,.would you risk a $6000 transmission over $60 fluid??

 

[Art454]

it is not the cleanliness of the oil, but the lubricity of it. the trans has many swash-plate motors which generate the pressure for the trans to work, they are variable plate motors so there are bearings lubricated with the fluid also,plus the temperature that they run at also breaks down the fluid,and it loses its lubricity properties,and it is the unseen metals in suspension,brass,nickle and copper that does damage to the innards of the transmission.

they are expensive insides of the transmission, plus the valve block is over $1200,.would you risk a $6000 transmission over $60 fluid??

Yes I can tell good fluid from bad and also got a new gallon also......don't forget kubota manual said 400 hours......so 100 hours its good to me......at 400 hours total I'll change trans fluid and filters. I think the next filters change is at 400 hours to.
Why throw good things out.....you dont change the oil in your car every 6 months if you drive 500 miles do you?
I have rebuilt many car tranny and you can tell by the color and smell what you gona find.
Am 60 and seen a lot more than you have.....sad to say
Unless your my age or over......lol
I own my stuff and take care of it....you work on stuff people beat the chit out of them.
Gives you a job at least.
Art

 

[bczoom]

Just changed the trans fluid on my 2008...maybe its a 09

The 9th digit of your VIN should be the year. It may be the 10th digit if they expanded the VIN to its correct length (the old RTV's had a VIN that was 1 digit short to national conventions for VIN's)
krtv900a410

 

[Art454]

The 9th digit of your VIN should be the year. It may be the 10th digit if they expanded the VIN to its correct length (the old RTV's had a VIN that was 1 digit short to national conventions for VIN's)
krtv900a410

Bought it at the end of 2009.....9th didit is r 10th is 9.....so i guess I got a 2009.....thought for sure it was one of the last 2008 but I see I was wrong.....lol
Thanks for the info.

Art

 

[D&D Farm]

Clueless........though I am old and have been drawing medicare benefits for a couple of years now, I for one appreciate your knowledge that you pass along to those of us that are familiar with mechanical devices; but perhaps NOT familiar with Kubota.........thanks for the thoughts......God bless........Dennis

 

[Mark.Sibole]

I change iit yearly here.Fluid looks good but I can tell when it is broke down as it dosnt have the power it had when fluid was new.

 

[bordercollie]

I first changed the transmission fluid on my 2011 at around 60 hrs with new filters and it was in need of the change because it had quite a bit of "stuff" on the magnetic plug and in suspension in the fluid. Today, at 468 hrs, the magnetic plug was also dirty with carbon sized deposits and the fluid was somewhat dark when collected. It didn't look so bad as it drained. I was glad I changed both fluid and filters. Also make sure that the gasket on the plug doesn't fall into the catch pan. That has happened to me on the '05 and almost on the '11. bordercollie

 

[20/20]

Another use for that clean fluid, if your worried about using it back in the trans, mix it in your diesel. I use no more then 10%, only clean oil. If it had only 100hrs then I'm sure it's fine, from what you describe.

 

[clueless]

the initial fluid and filter is to flush all the small bits of dirt and metal out of the cases from the assembly process,plus the break-in of the parts inside the trans. and maybe what most of you dont realize is that the brakes are a wet brake inside the transmission, the brake assemblies hold the carrier for the differential side bearings,and the brake material is just like automatic transmission bands/plates.how do you know what the person assembling the transmission was eating or doing while they were building it?

granted the fluid does pass through the suction filter then to the charge pump then to the secondary filter then to the swash plate motors and all other parts of the transmission.that same fluid lubricates the differential,brake bands,speed change and 4wd part of it.so everytime you grind them gears,small pieces of metal float in the oil to either get trapped on the magnet or sucked into the filters,but some are too small to get trapped by the filters,so they float around in suspension.

for the price of 2.5 gallons plus or minus a quart,is it really worth it?

as for mixing it back in the oil,not a good thing to do. it carbons up the injector nozzles.the best thing to add is a fuel conditioner stabilizer algacide specifically designed for that.

 

[TWO GUNS]

........ use it for cutting oil, like for drilling, metal cutting etc ....
oil fence hinges, oil chains ..... there is many uses for this
clean looking oil.....

 

[20/20]

as for mixing it back in the oil,not a good thing to do. it carbons up the injector nozzles.the best thing to add is a fuel conditioner stabilizer algacide specifically designed for that.

I have to disagree, I've been mixing 10%(used BUT cleaned) oil with my diesel for yrs and have not had 1(ONE) issue with injectors. It's fine if you don't want to do it, that's your choice and it's respected, but there are many that do and have NO problems. I use my mix in a dozer a truck 2 excavators and a new tractor. I keep up with regular maintenance which includes fuel filters. There are also many fleet owners/companies that do the same with there trucks/machinery, that actually go with a higher %age of oil then what I suggested. I believe they can do this because of there filtering system(very high tech). There is a lot of info on how this can be done if one is interested just do a search.

 

[clueless]

the newer trucks with the dpf filters they recomend not to put any additive in it,it will plug up the filters,as for the injectors on the heui or hpop systems, some use 2 cycle oil as a additive for the low sulfur fuel.

but to each his own. the older injection systems can take a little more abuse than the newer systems.