Emax25L was mowing & just shut off. Won't restart.

Sandelman

New member
While finishing mowing my back yard about 3 weeks ago, after gently backing towards a fence, I let off the peddle to go forward and the tractor shut off.
I thought that was strange, so I shut off the PTO, pressed in the clutch and turned the key. It fired up just like always but shut off after 2 seconds.
Since this has happened I have replaced the fuel filter, air filter, topped off the tank which was far from empty, replaced the fuel pump with OEM, swapped a couple relays with new to see if it made a difference. I have gravity bled the fuel system and gotten fuel to seep from the fuel injector nut when loosening to release air.
I have a problem trying to build pressure in the system to then release it because the tractor fires right up and then I feel like the pressure is gone.
It never has had any noticeable pressure when I crack the fuel filter bleeder, bleeder on diaphragm near the injector or the nuts on top of the injectors.
The fuel leaks out but there is no pressure, spray, squirt of bubbles behind it. Again I feel like it's because it's ran a cycle when it fires up and shuts off...but I have no knowledge of that fact.
I've also checked all the fuses in the motor mounted fuse compartment and have pulled the 4 larger fuses in the battery compartment on the left side if setting on the tractor.
I've checked the seat safety switch. If not setting on the tractor it will not start. I've flipped the raise / low levers for the deck, flipped the high low setting lever and if the clutch peddle is not pressed in it will not start. Also if I turn the PTO switch on, the tractor will not turn over. Maybe I'm wrong but due to how those tests went, it would seem that those switches are good, but again I just don't know.
It hadn't sat for an extended time before this, it's used regularly. It's always got fresh fuel in it and there have been no issues.
I got my multimeter out and set it to test 12 volts. I really have no idea how to use it other than to touch wires and see what it does. I connected it to the pos / neg on the fuel pump wires and another connector that is near the plug that had the same plug type just to see it there was a difference and there was not. It really didn't stay on any one number for long.

What else is there that I can check, where would it be located and how would I test it if you have any suggestions.

I'm a hands on person and maintain my own vehicles unless it's out of my league. My dump trailer control brake just stopped working so I have wires to chase there before I can try to load the tractor with a winch that I will have to temporarily mount to the trailer since the tractor won't start. Our dealer is about an hour away. Being retired and on a fixed income I can't afford the fee for the dealer to pick it up. Seems it's always something, ugh.

I would really like to buy a service manual or a work manual, which ever they call it. I have only found a couple online that are PDF and state not to buy if you want wire info because it's all blurred. I'd like to purchase the actual book to show how to work on and replace things.
If you have any info on one of those that would also be great.


If you have ANY helpful ideas I sure would appreciate it and thank you in advance.

Again, it fires right up, runs for 2-3 seconds, no more and shuts off. IF, I start ir and crank up the throttle is DOES rev up....but it's still the same time frame of 2-3 seconds.
 
Next time you go out there open the hood and look in the right front corner of the engine. There should be a fuel shut off solenoid on the radiator side of engine timing cover. Just in front of the injection pump. A cylinder looking thing about three inches long or so with wires and harness plugs on it. This is probably what's your problem. It may be defective, may just not be getting power to turn it on, something like that. It probably has two circuits, one pull circuit and one hold circuit. The pull circuit is somehow tied to the start circuit so it gets power when the starter is engaged. The hold circuit should be tied to the ignition circuit so it stays on until you turn the key off. That's the "nutshell" version. Details vary from machine to machine so I can't get too specific. It's possible your problem is related to all of that. If the pull coil portion works the engine will start and run, then the hold coil comes on and keeps the unit in the "run" position so the engine will continue running until you turn it off. Good chance you have a problem right there. Maybe no power to hold coil, maybe a bad solenoid, something like that.

You can experiment with that an see hat you come up with. If worst comes to worst, you can unbolt the unit and slip it out. IF that's the problem the engine will start right up and run without it. It may sling some motor oil out the hole, but it will run until you push the unit back in, then it will shut off.

You might start there.
 
Thanks so much for the advice. Im very eager to get this fixed. These 2 items are the only cylinder looking pieces l can find. Would one of them be what your talking about?
 

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The one above the hydraulic pump looks promising. The three wires involved will be 1) ground 2) hot with starter 3) hot with key switch on. You might check that out.
 
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