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Rings at least. Probably pistons and liners as well.

I'm quite sure he figured out what to do, he just didn't bother coming back to explain it. What exactly are you attempting to do, and what are the problems stopping you from doing it? The 4500 parts diagrams show a double shaft cylinder, probably bolted to the front axle, and most likely under...

I doubt it. Knowing what the max pressure the system will build up to will tell you more. That valve you mentioned should only affect the circuit plugged into it, nothing else.

The transmission most likely has a separate charge system, usually the return from the steering goes through a charge filter then into the hydrostat. At least most systems I'm aware of operate that way. I could look up the parts diagrams on this mode and prove that one way or the other, but it's...

I can't see what you have for hydraulic plumbing or how things are connected to the tractor system (assuming it is, and not a PTO pump?) so I hesitate to say what is or isn't right. If you can operate some of the functions, but not when demanding power above a certain point, then pump pressure...

If you had to relieve pressure in the cylinder to allow the rod to retract, then the piston should be okay. Set that idea aside for now. I'm curious about what would happen if you had started it back up with the cylinder part way up and tried it again. Would it have done the same thing all over...

I'm no authority on Kioti tractors (in fact I try to steer clear of them) but that actually sounds like two separate problems. I would think the backhoe attachment has its own valve stack to operate the various functions, and they would be totally unrelated to loader lift/curl functions. Maybe...

Sometimes the searches for parts come up empty because with these Korean companies, they tend to join forces, build certain model tractors for a few years, then things don't work out. The companies split apart, the machines they built become orphans, and replacement parts for them are no longer...

Not necessarily more informed, but more importantly, more willing to help. Dealership staff can be salaried or hourly paid. The tech help is mostly hourly, and their time is monitored and accounted for. They usually can't spend a great deal of time searching out information such as this just to...

Just a quick look on Tractor data shows TYM built a T503 from 2006 - 2015. The Cabela LM50 was listed from 2013 - 2016. It even lists the T503 as a variant. Both were rated at 50 HP engines, but the Cabela has a Perkins and the TYM has a Caterpillar. Both listed a hydrostatic transmission...

I would THINK you could remove the delivery valves without damaging anything down below. I've removed one on occasion for timing check purposes and haven't done any damage that I know of. But that's as deep as I go. That said, if in that process the lower portion turned as well while you were...

You removed it and cleaned it. What does that mean? You took it apart to clean it, rinsed it off and put it back in? Injection pumps are not homeowner serviced items. If you dismantled the pumping units, cleaned all the parts, and then assembled it you screwed up. Send it to a qualified pump...

As a general rule, TYM doesn't supply much for service manuals. They tend to keep the inner workings secret, even from their dealer service departments. Cabela outlets would get even less. I don't know what you were told before buying that tractor, but don't expect a lot of product support.

All this started after a blown radiator hose? I have to wonder how long the engine ran (probably under load?) after the hose failed and coolant was lost? There are a few different possibilities. A cracked head or gasket failure would be on that list. Another good possible would be some scuffed...

I rather doubt anyone "knows the problem". With only 90 hours on the machine, if the issue is anything other than owner/operator damage, it should be a warranty issue. Why would you try to fix it yourself?

The smaller wire, not the battery cable. It should be a simple spade terminal, and the wire just pulls off exposing the spade. Touch the spade with 12 volts and see what the starter does.

If you feel sure the battery, cables, and connections are good, I would suggest jumping the starter. Locate the start signal wire from the harness, remove it, and jump battery positive straight to the spade on the starter. If it still "just clicks' you have a bad starter, regardless of what...

I wonder why the previous owner sold it?

My guess is you're reading voltage with the wire disconnected because the current has nowhere to go. When you put it back on the starter and there is a load on the circuit the signal drops off. Weak signal for whatever reason. Try the relay. See what that gets you. I've done it many times on all...

What terminals are you jump starting? Are you applying battery voltage to the terminal you removed the key switch signal wire from? That's the way to accurately assess your starter's function. If the starter works "first time every time" when tested this way, then your start signal is NOT...