2008 RTV 1100 COLD START PROBLEM

i just ran my machine,,,,,its somewhat warm here,and i didnt need to preheat it,BUT,,,,,as i rolled it,it started immediantly,and ran for a bit less than a second,then,just died,it didnt completely shut off,but,close,,,,,,still a problem maybe in the fuel system? also,i ran it on a flat ground surface wide open,level ground 22 mph tops,,,,,,when it comes to a hill,it dies,,,,,,
 
spin said:
i just ran my machine,,,,,its somewhat warm here,and i didnt need to preheat it,BUT,,,,,as i rolled it,it started immediantly,and ran for a bit less than a second,then,just died,it didnt completely shut off,but,close,,,,,,still a problem maybe in the fuel system? also,i ran it on a flat ground surface wide open,level ground 22 mph tops,,,,,,when it comes to a hill,it dies,,,,,,
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when you say it dies when you hit the hill, does the engine die and loose power or does the engine keep the revs up but no power to the wheels they the HST/Tranny?
 
the engine keeps the revs up,but,the tranny slips,,,,gotta leave up on the pedal,,,,,,,the trannys in these are junk,,, my rtv 900 just takes off when you step on it,no slips,it just goes,,,,,a long somewhat steep grade,the 1100 needs to be in 2nd gear,the rtv 900 in 3 gear,and it just flies,,,,,,,
 
the hst in the old pre x model 900 is almost exacty the same as the pre 2014 1100. so your 1100 should perform almost the same because the 1100 has a bigger engine but this is offset because of the extra weight of the 1100 model. but before ya tear into the hst you need to make sure the engine is up to par. hint--- spark arrestor and air leaks in the primary fuel system and make sure the max rpm is at least 3600. then when that is all confirmed it is poss you need new plates in the hst.
 
how about the adjustment of the swash plate? top rear of tranny? in so many threads i read,people always say about when the tranny starts to slip,leave up on the pedal,,,,,,,of course,when i do that,mine goes ok,but,id prefer if i was like my hydro john deere,and no slips,,,when it runs out of power,its necessary to drop a gear,,,,,,,as far as the spark arrester,i need to find someone who has a hot wrench,(torch),the bolts are rusted in too tight,,,,,,im afraid illl twist em off? so,need some heat,,,,as far as air leaks,i am not sure how im going to go about that,i was going to take the fuel line off at the injector pump,and put some compressed air down through the fuel line (very moderate of course),,,,,maybe a vacuum gauge would be better,but,i no longer have my tool selection,,,,,,,,,
 
since the spark arrestor is a well known culprit of power loss and all that goes with it and since your spark arrestor is seized in place i wouldn't touch a thing until you have removed it and cleaned or modified it to confirm it isn't causing or at least making issues worse. i have to take mine out and clean it several times a year and it always has a layer of soot on it. if i didn't use it in dry prairie fire risk areas i would modify it and forget it. as for the possible air leak in the fuel system,if it has one it would most likely be on the suction side only of the primary fuel pump. if the fuel line is cracked on the pressure side you should see a wet spot because of pressure. the adjustment on top of the transmission is just a centering adjustment to set the swash in neutral and avoid creep in the wheels.
 
you always have good advice,i will do what you recommend,,,i hope to get the new glow plugs today,the next step will be the spark arrester,,,,,i will keep you informed,,,,,,thanks again so much
 
When I go my RTV900, and started going over it, one of the first thinks I checked was the spark arrestor. Mine had not been out for a long while from the looks of when I did get it out. I broke off one of the bolts, even with heat, but I drilled it out and chased the threads before I put it back. I did use stainless bolts and Nevrseize on the threads. It should be a 10 minute job now to take it out and clean it.
 
if you aren't getting oem plugs it might be a good idea to compare the wattage between oem and aftermarket so you can adjust time on the plugs when glowing.
 
I was hoping to find NGK glow plugs,,,,,ngk is one of the best,,,, but,of course,,,,nobody has them,and nobody can get them,, NAPA handles this brand,but,they are out of stock at the warehouse,sooooo,,,,, back to normal,,,,,go to the kubota dealer and get raped !!!!!!!!!! id love to find another place to buy them,,,,,,,
 
here is a follow up on my rtv 1100 situation,,,,,,,authuritis and everyone else who contributed,,,,,,,i took care of the spark arrester,it was blocked,i gained 2-2.5 mph,on a flat non paved measured strip,i finally found NGK glow plugs,which i did NOT have to buy through kubota,nice savings here,but,i had an awful time finally finding some place whom had the plugs and stocked them,,,,,,,,lucky im retired and i have time to waste now and then,,,,,,,,i still feel,when cold weather comes,my start,then,stop situation will also return,now,that its warm,it works fine,,,,,,thanks again everybody
 
that is even better news. i wouldn't worry about air getting into the fuel system then. i would gamble that when you get the cobbs blown out of it everything gets better. just remember in cold weather to use the hand throttle and no foot on the peddle. and you can glow while the engine is running also.
 
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