2040 hydraulic problems


New member
Ahh, the O-rings, not fun. I used two long thin screwdrivers, one a phillips head the other flat head, wrapped electrical tape around the ends, to hold the o-ring in the groove and the push it into place, piece of cake, only took 5 hours to accomplish, I'm sure a shop would have a tool to insert all of them at one time using compressed air. I will not be pulling the access cover unless and until I have finished the last of the work I will be doing on the hydraulics. I will have more questions later in regards to adjustments of the rockshaft, as it now behaves much differently than before I rebuilt it. Before the rebuild it only went up and down in one position of the Load - Depth selector in the upper most position. It now functions in all positions but the quadrant control has a very limited arc range.


New member
Yes, the O rings... I just took on another such project. This time it's a 2640 with steering valve leaks.

I doubt there is a tool made for that or it would be well known by now, and reported on in various places. I'm considering fabricating something myself this time. I'm thinking maybe a disc of sorts, possibly plexiglass so the work can be lighted from below. Something the size of the valve spool that can be positioned in the bore just below the groove to support the O rings one at a time while they can be pushed into place. I don't know, just rolling ideas around in my head so far. Hope to get the valve off tomorrow and start playing around with it.


New member
This is directed to jd110, if still active, I do have a 2040 w/closed center hyd sys, in following your test of running for 10-15 minutes, the only warm part that I have is at the base of the steering cyclinder, it gets 20 degrees warmer than the mounting point. Lower part of engine block at 90 F and base of steering cyl at 107 F. Is this a serious issue? Just finished replacing all seals and gaskets in the steering cylinder. Thanks
Technically, there should be no flow through the valve when steering is not being used. That would mean no temperature increase at all. With all new seals and installed correctly(those lower couple of orings can be challenging to get into correct grooves) the only other thing would be leaking in the valves themselves. There are shims that need to be installed properly so the valves have proper clearance One or both of the valve blocks can be bad also. With that said, it doesn't need to be perfect. a 20 degree increase shouldn't cause any excess heat buildup and/or other hydraulic problems. If steering is working well and other hydraulics, you should be fine.