750 hr u-joint life

P

pepr

Senior Member
Well the wife informed me that the left rear wheel area was squeaking on our 2011 RTV 900 XT. Jack the rear end up and promptly identified that the inner u-joint was severely worn for one with only 750 hrs run-time.

New one cross and cups from the local Kubota dealer is $98. Ah, that's just about 5-times what it should cost. Think I'll be calling Messicks in the morning.

One thing for sure, we would struggle without the use of the RTV on the farm.

Philip
 
750 hrs life on that rear ujoint is terrible pepr. It should have lasted much longer. I know you are a maintenance perfectionist. (these are greasable joints for those unfamiliar with this model ) What a pain ! I noticed a little slack on my left joint last time I greased too but I have over 2100 hrs on it... I hope you have a good day to work on it inbetween your demanding job and your farm. Good luck my friend. collie
 
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750 hours is a lot less service life than I'd expect since I have over 2,000 hours on mine that's 11 years old.

Out of curiosity, do you do snowplowing, pull any tillage implements, or drag heavy things that don't have wheels with your RTV?

Fitch
 
Fitch,

Thanks for you interest. We get very little snow down here in Arkansas, so, no I don't push a plow. I have used the RTV once to pull a culti-packer (which is probably 100 wheels) and a light weight 16 ft wide harrow over about 6 acres.

The RTV is used solely on a grass farm used to feed cattle. Twice a day a couple of five gallon buckets are driven out to the young weaned bulls and heifers, then to the cattle herd to check the cattle.

This unit doesn't get abused and mainly used to haul the driver and some stuff in the bed.

Philip
 
pepr said:
Fitch,

Thanks for you interest. We get very little snow down here in Arkansas, so, no I don't push a plow. I have used the RTV once to pull a culti-packer (which is probably 100 wheels) and a light weight 16 ft wide harrow over about 6 acres.

The RTV is used solely on a grass farm used to feed cattle. Twice a day a couple of five gallon buckets are driven out to the young weaned bulls and heifers, then to the cattle herd to check the cattle.

This unit doesn't get abused and mainly used to haul the driver and some stuff in the bed.

Philip
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I know what a culti-packer is. That's no load to speak of. A peg tooth harrow isn't much load either. A spring tooth can be but most of the time they are just for surface clod busting and leveling.

Thanks for the reply. You haven't done anything that would accelerate U-joint ware as far as I can tell. 750 hours is way shorter than one would expect.

FWIW: Ours has been used for horse chores two to four times a day for almost 11 years in addition to trail maintainance (hauling chain saws, etc.) and a jillion miscellaneous tasks. It was out slogging through the mud at 5 this morning.

Fitch
 
I think Pepr got an imperfect joint from the factory on his machine. That thing should have lasted much,much longer..I use a heavy duty grease "hammer tested" type and don't grease every 50 hours but do grease when I can- probably 2x that. We have the same machine.. a 2011 RTV 900 xt.
I am in a ton of mud and manure. ..but don't pull the heavy skids much at all -very rarely.. with this 2011 900xt. My 2005. pulled heavy skids all the time and new joints 2x.
Let us know how it goes pepr. I am interested in that joint you talked about getting. Good Luck !! collie
 
Bordercollie, Would you mind sharing what kind of grease you are using,I am always
on the look out for a better product. Currently I'm using Amsoil No 2 and am greasing
every 50 hrs.
 
Hi Anchor. I have been using the Red Line brand. [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-80402-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000CPAEJA/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1426648405&sr=1-1&keywords=redline+grease[/ame] . I have heard great things about the amsoil too. I am probably just lucky but so far so good with this redline.. (except for when I was twisting and turning to get the grease gun in position last time I greased the joints and the end cap popped off.... I looked like a greased monkey trying to save that expensive grease ...as it went everywhere) what a sight ! collie
 
The U-joints on the back of my '04 don't have grease fittings.

The 4 U-joints on the ZD21 can be greased from underneath if the thing is on blocks. Greasing the two on the mower drive shaft requires removing the mower deck. I grease them with Castrol general purpose grease. The mower drive joints get used hard. The mower operates at full throttle all the time. I grease them and check the lube level in the mower deck gear box every 40 hours. I'm getting pretty fast at removing and installing the mower deck after 11 years of that.

The gear box on the mower deck costs around at thousand bux. Don't ask.

Fitch
 
bordercollie said:
Hi Anchor. I have been using the Red Line brand. http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-8040...qid=1426648405&sr=1-1&keywords=redline+grease . I have heard great things about the amsoil too. I am probably just lucky but so far so good with this redline.. (except for when I was twisting and turning to get the grease gun in position last time I greased the joints and the end cap popped off.... I looked like a greased monkey trying to save that expensive grease ...as it went everywhere) what a sight ! collie
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I think that Redline synthetic, blended for extreme pressure, is a good choice. When (not if) my U-joints need replacing, hopefully the new parts have grease fittings. If they do, that's the grease I'd chose.

Synthetic grease is a good choice for that joint, especially in areas where there are temperature extremes for the same reason SUDT2 is a good choice. I don't use it on our mower which only operates in the summer.

Fitch
 
Fitch, using the greaseable Ujoints as replacements on the older models... you would have to drill an access hole under there,to reach that outer joint's zerk with. I did that on my '05 . it is a thread on that somewhere here. It would be practically impossible to grease it otherwise. collie

edit: see the picture I posted on 2/02/12 about the access hole for greasing the outer joint. http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13788&highlight=ujoints&page=6
 
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bordercollie said:
Fitch, using the greaseable Ujoints as replacements on the older models... you would have to drill an access hole under there,to reach that outer joint's zerk with. I did that on my '05 . it is a thread on that somewhere here. It would be practically impossible to grease it otherwise. collie

edit: see the picture I posted on 2/02/12 about the access hole for greasing the outer joint. http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13788&highlight=ujoints&page=6
Click to expand...

Thanks. That shouldn't be a problem. I'm pretty sure I can figure out a way to machine a suitable hole in it. Once it's all apart I think I can just put the bumper in my mill and make what ever hole seems right. I can experiment with it a bit to be sure it's possible to get a grease gun on it.

If I ever have to replace the spiders (all 4 are the same on my model) it looks like an opportunity to justify a hydraulic press. I love new tools.

Fitch
 
Fitch, since the transmission fluid must be drained to remove the inner axles, I believe it makes sense to replace both inner u-joints even though only one is worn. I decided that I've had enough of u-joint replacement using only a bench vise, so last night a friend and I traveled 100 miles round trip to purchase a 20-ton hydraulic press. Not a high dollar one, but one that will certainly be an improvement over a bench vise.

Philip
 
You will be proud of that press pepr. It will come in handy on your farm from time to time.If you had come through here in your truck ,, I would have sure let you borrow this one. I think the hydraulic jack is much easier to control. I hope it all works great for you. :tiphat: Blessings to you ! collie
 
Thanks Bordercollie! The press is just another tool that I've wanted for sometime, but, just chose to delay purchase for many reasons. Now I'm looking forward to assembling the press and just see how good or bad it will be. I'm thinks a lot of good now!
 
pepr said:
Fitch, since the transmission fluid must be drained to remove the inner axles, I believe it makes sense to replace both inner u-joints even though only one is worn. I decided that I've had enough of u-joint replacement using only a bench vise, so last night a friend and I traveled 100 miles round trip to purchase a 20-ton hydraulic press. Not a high dollar one, but one that will certainly be an improvement over a bench vise.

Philip
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I absolutely agree. \

I went to the Kubota website, used the model and serial number of my RTV to get the right list, then printed the parts exploded view and listing for the "Rear Wheel Propeller Shaft" and "Rear Axle" so I could study them.

The new inner spider has a grease fitting. The outer doesn't. If the spiders are identical except for the grease fitting, I'll consider putting the new inner spider kit in the outer and machining a hole to get grease gun access to it. I won't know for sure if that's possible until I take it apart.

Given the age and number of hours on my machine (Eleven years and 2,100 hours by this coming June), if (there is no indication of a problem yet so it's definitely "if") I have to remove the bumper to replace anything, I'll replace all 4 spiders, both boots, all six oil seals, and the cir-clips on the inner end. In addition to that, I'll inspect all the bearings and pack the outboard ends of the bumper that hold the rear axle with a good synthetic grease. Basically, make the whole thing as close to new as makes sense. I always replace disturbed seals.

I'm planning to get a Harbor Freight 20 ton press. There is a store not too far away from me (hour drive). I have something I can set it on that will allow the bumper to be vertical so the outboard end of the propeller shaft can be pressed out if, as I anticipate, that is necessary. There has been plenty of time, mud, moisture, and temperature extreme to cause it to both wear the seals and let in stuff that won't do the bearings any good. That outboard bearing assembly has been a bit of a mess on some high hour machines.

I may have to make a special tool to press the spiders out. If so, that shouldn't be a problem. I have a metal archive full of drops from the local welding shop and the tools to work it.

Fitch
 
Fitch

I own a 20 ton HF press and have used it for several years. Good choice, I made the mistake of buying a smaller one originally and sold it shortly afterwards to buy the 20 ton.

If you haven't dealt with HF much, check their website and see if the press is on sale there for less than in the store. If it is, print the website price and use the 20% coupon off of that price. I did that with a rolling cabinet and saved a lot of money.

They will discount off a sale price but not a coupon price as they will only accept one coupon on one item.

Bob
 
My new 20-ton press came from HF. Not a normal fan of HF, but believe this press will meet my needs. Anything that breaks should be easy to fix.

If you set up a log on with HF you can get their coupons. I was able to get the 20-ton for $149 and change. Also, if you have a smart phone, they can scan the coupon from the phone. They offered extended warranty which didn't make any sense to me. Plan to assemble tomorrow.
 
A good press is nice to have.I used to borrow one all the time but ended up making some adapters and plated for my log splitter and it works just as well if not better.ISo far I havnt found anything I could not move with the log press
 
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