accessorizing

H

hammerhead

Member
I have not been able to do much to accessorize my new [to me] RTV since I bought it. [I have needed to save up some money. ] I will pick up my glass windshield and metal roof Monday. Front mudflaps and the elevated air intake will be ordered. I have a fused switch panel on the way, as well as a jeep roll bar dash light. </P>


I am trying to do some of the things that may take some time to install first. [I have more time for this now.. than I will come spring] </P>


I do not know exactly what lights I will use.. but I have found a good selection locally [including the exact lights you are using Jamie... at the same price as your source]. I kind of like the idea of having them under the roof.. like Brian's for example, but the metal roof with the glass windshield does not seem to have as much space. I will check it out better once they are installed.</P>


I am also working on closing in the back screen area. I did not want a full cab, but think a back wall would help in the cold. There is a small lower section behind the seat backrest. as well as the larger area where the screen is. I am using a piece of wood in the lower section [There are extra holes in the tabs that hold the backrest in place]</P>


The upper section will be framed around the screen and then I will put in a removeable window in the center. This wood will be painted to match, I have left a little gap around the edge.. so it does not squeak if there is flex. I will then caulk around the edges. I will use longer bolts, and space this out from the screen so that is a gap between the two.</P>


I did notice when I took the seat backrest off... it seemed to be wet, inside. I have it in the housenow trying to dry it out. My "backwall" should preventthis from happening again. </P>


glenn</P>
 
GLENN,</P>


I like the idea of the Jeep roll bar dash light, where did you find that at .... I've been interested in mounting one in this unit >>>>.</P>


</P>
 
oops I meant to say dome light. </P>


The dome light, I found on ebay. If I remember correctly they were around $12.00. Dashlights I was going to wire in some LED units either behind the dash.. and or on the dash with a sheild, but I will probably just use an led map light that plugs into the power port [as someone here suggested]</P>


glenn</P>
 
<FONT face=Arial>So far the only accessory I have added to my RTV is a broom to push out the snow and a 5 gallon bucket in the back. </FONT></P>


<FONT face=Arial>I enjoy learning from all of you the different ideas you have came up with. </FONT></P>


<FONT face=Arial>I think the first real add on I will get is is the glass windshield. I know this topic has been discussed many times in this forum. But I will risk asking once again.</FONT></P>


<FONT face=Arial>Is there any sense in looking at other plastic wind shields or will they just get scratched to the pont where a guy would wish he just got glass to begin with?</FONT></P>


<FONT face=Arial>My dealer tells me the kubota glass will cost somewhere around $630</FONT></P>


<FONT face=Arial>Has anyone ever thought about if a used auto windshield (make/ model?) could be rigged to work in the RTV. </FONT></P>
 
What type of roof do you have ? metal or plastic ?</P>


I love my glass, wouldn't have anything but ... I use lexan in one of my business and it will scratch.</P>


Isn't anything wrong with plastic windshield if that 's what you want, but , I know of two locals that installed plexy / & or lexan, and both ended up getting a glass within a year. They got scatched up, and once it's scratched, that will be in front of your face forever....</P>


Now, my windshield ( Kubota glass ) was $ 550.00 installed .... But, I've seen 'em installed by dealers and owners, and isn't nothing to it ???? To save yourself $$$ , might want to install it yourself >>>>>.</P>
 
Hammerhead...........</P>


For the rear window, I cut a piece of plexiglass the same size as the opening, drilled holes as I held it in place, using the existing strapping that runs vertically on the ROPS. The glass windshield is worth no matter what the price.</P>


Currently, my wife and I have about 6 hours in creating a wiring harness for 2 driving lights, a rear flood on the the ROPS, Cigarette lighter acessory plug, and an outlet for devices on the rear bumper. These are all run from a central "hot" fuse block in the rear firewall up to a panel fabricated of aluminum plate attached to the ROPS above the driver. The panel is maybe 7 X 10" attached with loom straps. Wife wanted lighted switches so even though a pain to run the extra grounds, it made her happy. </P>


Santy brought the high air cleaner and after the super easy install it is proving it's worth.</P>


Anyway, keep it going..........God Bless...........Dennis</P>
 
Glenn,

A couple thoughts.
You may not like the front mud flaps. I have them and really don't see much of a benefit. Making your own out of heavier rubber material may create a better option.
For your rear window/screen, I'm not sure how well it holds up over time but instead of using regular silicone caulk, you may want to look at the caulk that can be removed easily for the first pass. It's made to temporarily seal cracks and gaps on doors/windows for the winter and then remove the caulk in the spring. 3M's product is called windjammer, DAP's is called Seal & Peel if you want to look it up to see how it would work for you. It seems just like the stuff they use to attach a credit card to the paper when they mail it to you.
As for "painting to match", just be aware that the Kubota ROPS spray paint in the can doesn't exactly match the powder coated paint that comes on the ROPS. If I recall, it's a little bit lighter.
We will want to see lots of pics of this rear window setup so don't forget to take pics along the way. I'm also curious if it causes low pressure in the cab and sucks more air in from the sides.

baldwinkw,
At this point, the OEM windshield is your best option. If not OEM glass, the best option is Lexan <u>with Marguard</u>. With the Marguard, it's guaranteed not to yellow or scratch for 10 years. A few years back, it was reasonably priced but it's very expensive now and would probably cost almost as much as the OEM glass.
I haven't looked at using a car windshield but have considered (but not acted on it) contacting a couple local places that make customized windows. No idea what they would have come up with.
 
Thanks </P>


Brian, I was originally thinking of making my own mud flaps.Looking at where they mounted it looked like they might wrap around the wheel well, that they might be pretty wide. I do not know what the factory ones really look like.. could either youor Jamie. get something for a picture for me. [or anyone else that has them].</P>


Thanks Brianfor the idea for less permanent caulking, but the wood part is to be more permanently mounted to the RTV, and this will have a seperate window that pops in and out [this will not be caulked]. The window will pop in and out in seconds without tools. </P>


I am aware that the Kubota paint does not match. The ROPS. All the plasitic is black.. and the factory rearscreen is darker than the ROPS. I will either get a dark grey or black.. and not worry too much about going for an exact match. </P>


Dennis when I read about your plexiglass rear window... and I thought.. "why didn't I just do that?". It would have been much easier than what I am doing now. But mine will , as I said above give me an easy in and out window, andthe wood was sort of scrap I had on hand. Also if I decide to had some coat hooks or something else in there I have something easy to put screws into. </P>


Brian air pressure problems might be an issue. I will keep tabs on that and share...If it is... I would think just taking out the window would take care of it, that that would be enough of an opening, but still offer some protection with the perimeter frame. I could also maybe adjust the opening size if need be....I had wondered about a putting in a sliding window.?</P>


I have not gone to get my roof and windshield today.. we are in the midst of a big snow storm, so I guess it can wait a day or two.</P>


Brian I did PM you again..hmm I don't remember what else I asked, but I do haveanother question. I was trying to find info on your underbed light. I was wondering what you mounted it to. I did finally find where you said it was mounted to the bed itself?? Is it mounted to the bed stiffeners? I assume that you have no trouble with the heat from the muffler.. right there?</P>


I have found locally a pair of lights that look just like the Warn ATV backup lights on the ATO site. They are nice and compact. I will use one of these for the underbed light and the other will mount under the roof as a cargo bed light. </P>


</P>


oh Dennis one more.[:)] You have wired in another acc. plug? Where did you put it, and what will you use in it? and what will you power from the rear bumper. I know some are using spreaders back there.. </P>


I may put a plug somewhere for a chainsaw sharpener... but I am not sure where I would put it yet??</P>


glenn</P>


</P>


</P>


</P>
 
OK, I went out and snapped some pics.

Here's where I mounted the rear light. Not sure if the mounting hole was there already or if I drilled my own.
 
Yep, </P>


Might just be me and the way I have so much mud to crawl through.... but mine has help so much at keeping the mud from being caked under my unit. On the inside of the fender, it also helps to keep mud from being thrown side-ways , toward the engine, tranny direction, if you know what I mean, or should I say, at a angle ....the way they are installed on the machines ........ Before I installed my flaps, mud would just stay boiled up under my cab., now, it's hardly any stays there >>> [*-)]</P>
 
Another option I found for paint is the Rustoleum Hammered black (hmmm, or was it dark gray). Either way, it was a pretty close match as well.

Forgot to mention in the back-up light post... Heat doesn't bother it.

What are you installing for a cabin light? When I bought a pair of the small Warn lights, I mounted one at the top, rear center of the ROPS pointing into the cargo box and the other pointing into the passenger area since they fit so nicely up there. The backup light is awfully tough and rubber encased. For $15, I'd rather have that back there then a much more expensive Warn light figuring I'll back into something or smack some firewood into it some day and break it.

If you're going to install another 12V accessory plug (i.e. cigarette lighter socket), you may want to consider a couple of them... I put another plug in my roof area but can actually use 2 or 3 of them up there. I'll keep the one for now and just hard-wire the rest of the things.

I checked and didn't get another PM from you. Feel free (all the members here) to use my e - mail. It's bwc at zoominternet dot net. The spaces and "at" are to be removed/replaced. I included so the bots don't spot it.


Brian
 
[quote user="bczoom"]What are you installing for a cabin light?[/quote]
Please disregard that... I must not have had my fill of coffee this morning when I read the earlier posts to this thread (that answered that).

Jamie - Yep! Got those turn limiters in place.
 
Thanks for the Pictures Brian. </P>


The backup lights I was looking at aren't any more expensive than the light you have. If I remember ATO had them for maybe 32 for the pair. My local source I think was even cheaper. It is nice and compact, it should not stick out any more than the tail lights. </P>


</P>


Ok guys tell me about the turn limit stops. </P>


</P>


glenn</P>
 
[quote user="hammerhead"]Ok guys tell me about the turn limit stops.[/quote]
Glenn,

In the picture of the mud flap, look at the black bracket bolted to the lower A-arm. It's a steel bracket that has a rubber stop closer to the tire. This is to limit the turn and avoid damage to the front U-joints. The older units didn't have them but the newer ones do.

From the info I got during that thread "It appears that all RTV's with Serial # greater than 66026 have them. If your SN is 10001-66026 you probably don't have them."

If you have a unit that doesn't have them, pricing and part number is in the thread below.

Here's the thread where discussed.
http://compacttractorreview.com/cs/forums/thread/9899.aspx
 
Thank you very much Brian:</P>


I figured in the picture of the mudflaps.. which they were... but knew nothing of them. I just checked my machine.. and it does not have them [:(]</P>


but perfect timing I was just leaving to go pick up my winsheild and roof, and order the air intake.. I will order these at the same time. </P>


glenn</P>
 
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