I don't have that many, but here they are. The top cylinder connecting point, I just drilled and tapped two 3/8 UNC bolts into the FEL frame and made the bracket at the approximate angle to the cylinder. The bottom plow mount is also bolted to the FEL frame at three different points. I made everything that attaches to the tractor bolt on for obvious reasons. The brackets stay on, but to remove the plow, there are just three pins to pull and drive away. The plow pivots at two different angles off the one anchor point at the tractor. The majority of the force takes place at the outer end of the blade so that is the reason for the two pivot points out there. I wouldn't want to fetch up on something next to the inside pivot as I'm not sure what would happen but I am very careful to just plow with it on flat level ground. The springs at the back near the snowblower just help cushion some of the blows from hitting crusty snow banks once in a while, they are a couple of springs from a computer chair I scavenged at work. It's amazing how stiff these springs are considering what they were in. I figure it took about 200-300lbs of force just to get them to compress a 1/4". I've pushed my little Kubota and Kioti sideways before with this wing and not hurt anything now that I've worked the bugs out. I have quite a bit more weight now though, time will tell. As far as the front blade goes, it only pushes straight a head. Usually, if there's less than a 8 to 10" inches it will roll off enough to keep plowing ahead, then I can use the wing to push the rest back. When I first got the front blade I made it so that it would angle, but your right, the little tractors just don't have enough weight to stop them from pushing sideways in any amount of snow. The wing will push snow as much as it can depending on how much traction you can muster, I've had it coming over the top several times. Hope this helps, but if you have any more questions please don't hesitate to ask.
Steve
