Changing the Front Boots on RTV900

David69 said:
Collie,

I do not understand this part. Can you explain?........ "I will also loosen the nut holding the strut on the knuckle case-but not remove it.I marked it's resting place on the knuckle case so if it moved, I could put it back exactly" .... Resting place?

Thanks in advance

David
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I believe what I meant was that I put a mark on the strut where the piece slides into the knuckle case "arm" and stays ,right below that silver tag in the picture . That way, it could be tightened back in the original factory resting place or where it was originally. collie
 
Collie,
Got the axle off this morning. When I pulled the inner axle out oil leaked on the floor. Where do I check the level for that and replenish after re-assembly? What kind of oil is it?

Thanks in advance,

David
 
That came out of the front differential /transfer case (what I call it its name in the book is front axle case) It needs to be changed as well as the knuckle cases as a regular part of your maintenance. The drain plug is there right on the bottom of that area behind your jack . there is a shield around the bottom to protect it. It has a drain hole in the shield, if you feel up in there, you will find a threaded plug . That is where you drain the fluid completely. Make sure all dirt and dried mud is away from that area because it will fall or get in you eyes when you put the plug back in(same on top). I learned that the hard way. The refill area is hard to get to , but I use a long funnel and go in from the open hood. You can also use a small clean plastic bottle . I think it holds around 2/3 of a qt..
You check and add oil through the top plug. You can feel this plug with a twist/turn type plug by reaching in where the center of the front bumper meets the bumper mount across the front. (like where a winch mounts) This also has a dipstick built in. I used SUDT in it.
Do you have a manual?If not I might can scan a page of this for you and the oil capacities. collie
 
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Collie,
Well I got everything back together after changing both outer CV boots. What a project this was....the first time for me. Thanks for all of your help. I removed the plug on the front case to drain the oil which I did. When I went to put back the plug I noticed whoever did the maintenance on it before had stripped the threads. How does one repair this? Maybe a over sized self tapping drain plug? It's a bummer considering how much work went into this so far. Any information on this would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
Bummer is right on the stripped plug and seat... I have never had that problem ,in such as important area ,yet anyway. I would ask a good mechanic about that. Do be careful if you use a tap or thread reamer/cleaner and a new plug- I'm speaking of metal fragments internally from the tap.
I would consider the tap option and new plug if it were me but I live by the seat of my pants sometimes on decisions . I have fallen off (really with) a 16' ladder that I knew was dangerously placed , walked away from a serious wreck , heavy equipment encounters ...angry cow encounters, and still I am here. I give thanks to the Lord for all of those and getting me through my RTV's redos too . No joke. When I have a problem I will sleep on it and say a prayer and when I wake up , the answer is usually before me.
Let us know how this turns out for you. bordercollie
 
OK David, I asked a friend of the family that is a mechanic.. He said use a tap with heavy grease and it should capture most of the filings from the taping job. If it were me, I would get something with a crook afterward that , also with heavy grease and do a sweep up in there. Sounds like a good possibility. :) collie
 
The problem is the tap will have to go too far up inside. The gears sit only about a 1/4 inch or so above the bottom of the case. It would be nice to tap a M12-1.75 for that drain plug which is available online.


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Those are good pictures. I'm at a loss on this other method as I don't know anything about it , anybody else?
A standard tap is all I know.As a last resort... If I had to do it by my self. I guess I would rotate the wheels to see if the gear would move to allow more room for a better spot, or else mark the tap I used to keep from going into the gear, go as far as I could, back out and carefully cut the narrower tap end off without damaging the thread cutters left,so I could run the fatter thread cutter's centerr farther on .. Risky yes, but then also I would search for more possibilities first .. Good Luck ! bordercollie
 
Go to one of those Quikie Oil Change places. They are always stripping out Oil Plugs and they have some sort of REPAIR Plugs I think.

Years ago I tried them once with a new truck and sure enough they DID it. That is how they fixed it..

They had a Repair right on the spot.
 
bordercollie said:
Those are good pictures. I'm at a loss on this other method as I don't know anything about it , anybody else?
A standard tap is all I know.As a last resort... If I had to do it by my self. I guess I would rotate the wheels to see if the gear would move to allow more room for a better spot, or else mark the tap I used to keep from going into the gear, go as far as I could, back out and carefully cut the narrower tap end off without damaging the thread cutters left,so I could run the fatter thread cutter's centerr farther on .. Risky yes, but then also I would search for more possibilities first .. Good Luck ! bordercollie
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My thoughts also. The gears when rotated are still very close to each other to have any more room still leaving only about 1/4 or 5/16's clearance above the case to drill through. I will call the dealership today and see if the service shop has run into this problem. Maybe putting it in 4 wheel drive the gears would shift upward or to the side somehow allowing more room for the drill and tap.
 

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Alfred 567 said:
Go to one of those Quikie Oil Change places. They are always stripping out Oil Plugs and they have some sort of REPAIR Plugs I think.

Years ago I tried them once with a new truck and sure enough they DID it. That is how they fixed it..

They had a Repair right on the spot.
Click to expand...

GOOD IDEA! Thanks Alfred
 
David69,
You can get a M12 x 1.75 bottom tap. It is designed to tap to the bottom of a blind hole. It should work for your application, they are harder to get started, I usually use a taper tap to start and then finish with a bottom tap. Hope this helps.
Pete
 
6 days of surgery under the knife and a successful operation. It was touch and go there for awhile sorting out the correct insert, taps, the drill hole size. Practiced on a dummy patient a scrap piece of aluminum before attempting the actual surgical implant on the bottom of the front transmission. Surgery upside down on your back was a success! I am ready to celebrate!
 

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