Wow - sorry to hear - that was going to be my go-to method if what I am doing now doesn't work. The X1100C cabs are really tight so it amazes me that the wire would affect it this way.Just got in THE RTV and apparently the spot I ran the wires up along windshield gasket wasn't a good idea. Water leaked in so need to come up with plan B.
Wow - sorry to hear - that was going to be my go-to method if what I am doing now doesn't work. The X1100C cabs are really tight so it amazes me that the wire would affect it this way.
Dave, looking at your picture again it looks like there is some silicone at the bottom of the windshield. Someone must have tried to fix a leak before.
I received my switch today and finished installing the dome light door switch improvement. It works well! Now all I need to do is to rationalize the purchase of the nifty modification module that Dave installed!
I have a good plan to allow me to use a shorter switch if this becomes a problem. I've tried to see if my sleeve gets caught on it and so far it hasn't been a problem, even when I tried to. This "plan" involves screwing a strike plate to the door that will allow for further adjustment with a much shorter switch. I have actually made the part and have it ready if it is a problem. I just figured I would give it a while to see what happens.Hopefully you don't get hung up on that since it looks like it sticks out pretty good.
As far as the delay module goes, sometimes you just have to treat yourself, LOL.
I decided to buy a bit of insurance and have ordered a module that will turn off the dome light after 8 minutes. I like the dimmer option, but for the little I would need it I decided to be cheap and go with just the timer off option.
I just installed this timer module and it is really neat and works well. Amazing it is so inexpensive. The factory hot lead to the dome light is really short so it is a bit of a challenge to connect in, but doable. The unit has a potentiometer for adjusting - the directions make no mention of this and the unit comes in a hard plastic shell. The default on the potentiometer is for the shortest cycle (1 sec) so at first I thought I had wired it incorrectly. After corresponding with the seller (very quick response time) he mentioned the adjustment and that is when I removed the hard shell. This is a $13.00 piece of low battery insurance.I decided to buy a bit of insurance and have ordered a module that will turn off the dome light after 8 minutes. I like the dimmer option, but for the little I would need it I decided to be cheap and go with just the timer off option.
I guess that could be a possibility. I know I have used many magnetic reed switches in the past and never encountered an issue with them being mounted on a steel frame. It is possible some reed switches are only designed to be mounted on non-ferrous metal or wood and some are designed to be mounted on ferrous metal.I played around with one and couldn't get it to work. I figured the metal it was next to kept the magnet from attracting the reed. I mounted mine near the drivers beverage holder. The only draw back is the wire has a long run. I ran my wire down the back of the cab and under the floor, I saw where one member tucked his in the windshield rubber.
My switches are mounted in the plastic on the side just below the cupholders.I am not thrilled with the idea of drilling into the metal cab to mount switches. I would think drilling into the cab frame would void warranty on the structural integrity of the cab. Also not thrilled about trying to conceal the wiring for door switches behind window seals.
So, I did a bit of searching and ran across this device. It is a wireless switch controlled by a keychain FOB. Since I am not going to install a radio inside, there is a hollow cavity where the radio would go. More than large enough to install the remote receiver. Seeing that the dome light is right underneath the radio mount, wiring will be extremely easy, without fishing wire or having to remove the headliner. I am looking at the solid state switch, which is good for 3A without a relay. In looking at the schematics, the radio and the dome light are parallel powered off of one 5A fuse, so the dome light can't pull much amperage. It is a non-switched power circuit directly from the 80 A main fuse. I should be able to turn the dome light on and off from 90' away with the FOB. I'll order one, install it and then report back with installation pictures.
12v wireless remote control on/off switches for any 12 Volt DC devices such as auto lighting kits, computer accessories, or other electronic applications.www.oznium.com
View attachment 14888