driveshaft rattle

M

malojeer

New member
I just bought a 05 RTV worksite model from a friend who was in a bind for $. The unit has 19 hrs. and the driveshaft yokes are too loose that power the front wheels. I saw on this site thereis a fix for this problem also that there is aService memo on thisissue and that it is warranty repair. The dealer here told me that there is no such memo or repairthat exists andno one else has complained.so they will not help me. Probably because i didn't buy the machine from them.Can someone give me the service memo # and part numbers for replacement partsso i can call another dealer here in the south. Any help would be appreciated.
 
thanks a bunch for the help. Decided to order parts from your store. Parts dept. was very helpful. Anytime i need parts i will order from your dealership even though i am in north Alabama.Some equipment dealerships seem to have a don't care attitude, yours was just the opposite.
 
Glad we could help you out. Its amazing how rare good service seems to be these days. </P>


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[quote user="malojeer"]thanks a bunch for the help. Decided to order parts from your store. Parts dept. was very helpful. Anytime i need parts i will order from your dealership even though i am in north Alabama.Some equipment dealerships seem to have a don't care attitude, yours was just the opposite.[/quote]</P>


I agree. Neal and his crew have always been very helpful. I'll probably always order from them eventhough we have a Kubota dealer near me in Memphis.</P>
 
My new and improved universal joint came in today. I put it on and could not believe how much quieter it is. Did not realize the rattle was so bad. Messicks parts Dept. informed me after I ordered the part that it was on backorder and would not be in until the begining of January. I was okay with that since my machine was still able to driven like that, but to my suprise it arrived today. Just wanted to thank the parts Dept. for doing an outstanding job. I WILL BE A REPEAT CUSTOMER!
 
Can anyone tell me what part # I need to order to fix the rattle? When I click on the link it list two part numbers.....K7561-16820 & K7561-91700. Do I need to order them both? Any help would be very much appreciated. </P>
 
Welcome to the forum Darren.

You only need part number K7561-91700. This is the updated part number/kit and supercedes K7561-16820.
 
I have part# K7561-91700 U-joint kit $50.00 shipped if anyone needs it. This is newwith complete instructions.</P>


Thanks</P>
 
That's a nice price...

OK, a couple thoughts/questions.
Do I recall correctly that K7561-16820 doesn't have the set screw(s) to stop the rattle? It's just the replacement U-Joint? (K7561-91700 has the set screws).

Where does U-Joint K7561-16823 fit??? Is it the same as 16820? (It doesn't have set screws)
When I pull it up on http://www.messicks.com/partdetail.aspx?pn=K7561-16823 it links back to 91700. Are all these U-joints the same part number now?
 
I just had my 900 at the dealers today to get a new fuel tank and a front u-joint installed. They had number K7561-91700 u-joint kit, but couldn't get it to work. They said it had a pin that is suppose to go through the drive line and mine didn't have a hole for it. Also I didn't see any set screws if it's suppose to have them. Do they have the right kit?
 
If they are having trouble with it they should be going to Kubota to find out. Where they able to resolve the problem?
 
The dealer is waiting for a call from Kubota on Monday. They had talked to someone there and they were unable to help them. I was just hoping that someone here who had experience with this problem could give me some insight. After all, you guys are the experts and I respect your knowledge of the RTV.
.
Over the last year I've learned about leaky fuel tanks, squeaky ROPS, non existing steering stops and rattling drivelines. Although minor problems, all of these I've fixed or are in the process of fixing. These repairs have made a great machine even better. I don't know how I got along without it.

I've also learned that there are a great group of owners out there who are willing to share their knowledge, and it is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
Hi Labman, I replaced my front drive shaft myself after the warranty had expired .{the rear was done under warranty.}The end which takes the pin is more under the seat and not under the pedal. The bearing has to be taken loose orthe shaft won't slide on . So just in case, be sure they were looking on the right spline for the pin hole. and that would be under the seat area near that bearing. Thefine BC Zoom has been very helpful with info on this project back when I replaced mine. Be sure and check that bearing because I believe mine had enough slack that it messed with my shaft or vice versa in the first place. Anyway my bearing fell apart a while later not far from the house just after a late nite4 milefrom home fence fixing. So I had to replace it too {had to take all that loose again} It wasn't in stock and had to be overnited so I wouldn't have withdrawal. Hereby called RTV idis lackofitdus.Good Luck and let us know how things turn out Bordercollie[&][&][:)] 1706 hours and counting on Feb 05 model
 
Thanks bordercollie, I just crawled out from under the RTV. I should have done that in the first place. Now I can see what's going on. I didn't realize that there were two shafts. The front one, like you said,
has the pin hole.

If you lift the bed and grab the back drive line it can be moved back and forth. The joints themselves seem tight, but the bearing housing, through the cross member, seems to allow the bearing to slide back and forth about 3/8 of a inch, is this normal? Thanks.
 
Hi Labman, My rear drive line does not move back and forth at all . The only slack is the 'wobble 'in the joints themselves. Check to see if there is a snap ring on the front side of the bearing to prevent the shaft from moving as you described.There are two grooves hereon the shaft coming from the rearandthis snap ring should be in one of those grooves.I have one there.This could be the whole problem. The rearspline coming out of the trans does not have a pin hole in it but ratherit's abolt on the "yoke" of the u joint that is used to snug the joint to the shaft coming out of the trans. ...Then thedriveline is pinned to this u joint with apin like in the front. You can see this pin hole on the correct u joint and drive shaft . They just slip together and pin. If you do this yourself, use a punch to make sure the holes are lined up before pinning or you could pin air and that would be really bad. I did that but that little voice in my head said to stick my finger in the end of the u joint {not easy}and make sure and wham I could feel the side of the pin so I knew then I had almost up.The newer replacement rear shaft should have a washer type ring between the u joint and transmission spline to prevent some of the rattle. My does now. The first time I ordered my front shaft, they sent a rear one so good luck with that. Also , This shaftreplacement isn't a definite cure for the rattle but it helps.I'm sorry about this description but it is sometimes hard for ladies to describe this stuff althoughI worked with my Dad a lot so I know more than some. Good Luck and let me know if I can help with troubleshooting. Bordercollie[&]
 
Thanks bordercollie for the information. I checked for the snap ring and I can see the one in front of the bearing. Without taking off the guard it's hard to tell if the back one is there, but I think it is. When I move either driveline front to back or back to front the whole thing moves as a unit, front driveline, bearing and back driveline. All the slack is in the bearing housing and yoke splines.

My machine is an '06 and doesn't have the pin on yoke near the transmission. If in the future I have to change to the newer u-joint and yoke it seems that I'll have to replace the driveline also, is that correct? Labman
 
Hi Labman, TheFRONT shaft and u joint are made together on mine but the rear has a separate drive line and u joint .A pin hole in therear driveline should line up with a hole in the u joint end andthe pin should go in there holding them together. then the splined end of the trans slides into the splined yoke end of the u joint and the bolt on the ujointis tightened thus holding it on Oh,the little "rattle reducer ring"is on the splined shaft between the rear ujoint and the trans case. I would certainly check that bearing. My 05 has the bearing mounted above the plate with I believe 2 bolts . there are two egg shaped plates[ 1 on each side]of the bearing holding it on the frame like two pieces of bread on a sandwich. I think if it was me, since all of these changes have been made with regard to rattle, I would replace thesetunless the Kubota folks said different. Now that is just me talking.If you do this yourself ,do a dry run because with these shafts, it won't all go together if you assemble out of order. I carefully use a piece of pvc todrive the bearing on the shaft before getting under the unit. IF I remember right, don't tighten up the bearing until you get it all lined up.Then it's a breeze. I am pre occupied now because there is serious talk{ even an environmrntal impact study done}about putting a blame interstate right acrossthis farm and all our neighbors too. We are all fighting it. [This house is on the National Register as it is an oldplantation homefrom 1842]so I don't think they can doze it but they can take the land if it does happen. Bad bad dream.I am one worried Kubotian. This takes my mind off of that so ask any questions and I would be glad to help if I can. Thanks and good luck, Bordercollie
 
Hi everone, I should have proofed my descriptions in the previous post. The "rattle reducing washer" fits IN FRONT OF THE REAR U JOINT . I'm sorry about this mix up. [:$]Bordercollie
 
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