First RTVX1100C and First Post-Lighting Upgrade

Tinsnip

Tinsnip

New member
Greetings and happy new year! Really happy to find this forum dedicated to RTV owners. Thanks to everyone who contributes.

My question will seem simple to most of you—apologies if it’s repetitive. I’m adding an LED light bar to my new rig that has no factory installed front or rear work lights. I bought a wiring harness to go with it that includes a solenoid and a switch. A quick look has me thinking I can run the harness under the roof liner to the light from the battery, and the switch to the dash under the floor mat. But I’m a lousy electrician and as they say, I don’t know what I don’t know.

So my questions are:
1. Is it really necessary to run a new harness to the front light bar instead of buying a switch and using the factory harness?
2. What’s under those 3 black metal plates on the front of the roof? Is it possible to use them to mount the hardware for the light bar?
3. Am I dreaming to think I can get a wire under the roof liner?

Thanks!
Tim
 
Tim
The wiring is all there if you use Kubota work lights either front and back. Some where on this forum this has been covered before. The main problem is that some light bars exceed the amperage ratings of the Kubota wiring. I purchased the Kubota light switches and 6 of these lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F9KCRRB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Some on here have installed light bars using the factory wiring and rear work lights only to find out that when they have both on they blow fuses. I installed 3 on the front and 3 on the back and can run them at the same time with out blowing fuses.
Also you can get the light mounting plates from Kubota to mount your lights. Under the plates on the roof there is wiring for the Kubota work lights at the 2 out board positions in the front.
The roof liner comes out and there is plenty of room for extra wiring.
 
Mine is like that. I cannot turn my front light bar and rear LED work lights on at the same time or it blows the fuse. But I haven't dug in to it to see how the dealer has it wired or the specs of my light bar.
I was going to try the next size up fuse but am scared of burning something up.
 
Using a bigger fuse is never a good idea unless you upgrade the wiring as well. I would guess that your insurance company will deny a claim if the bigger fuse caused a wiring fire.
 
Armyaviatr said:
Using a bigger fuse is never a good idea unless you upgrade the wiring as well. I would guess that your insurance company will deny a claim if the bigger fuse caused a wiring fire.
Click to expand...
After reading responses here and elsewhere I’ve decided to use the wiring I got with the light that includes its own fuse and relay. A tad more work but I’ll be positive it will work. Now if it will just quit snowing so I can get at it!
 
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Armyaviatr said:
Using a bigger fuse is never a good idea unless you upgrade the wiring as well. I would guess that your insurance company will deny a claim if the bigger fuse caused a wiring fire.
Click to expand...
I hear you. That's why I never did anything until I ever get the time and desire to open it up and see how the dealer did it. I assume it is all the factory work light wiring because it is the factory switches. Just won't handle the draw of the three LED lights they put on.
 
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