HELP big problem with my rtv

zenchal26

zenchal26

Member
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<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: small; font-family: Times New Roman;">I went to go out grooming in my 04 rtv 900 today and the trany stopped working.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I drove about 200 yards to a gate I have to unlock. I put it in neut opened gate got back in and put it in low but nothing happened.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Shifter moves very easy like I broke a cable but the cables are good.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I tried to manually put it in gear with the linkage at the Trans but nothing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Goes into low and rev real easy but if you try to move the lever into med or high you can’t move it. When you put it into low or rev and hit the gas nothing happens. Any idea whets going on here.</span></p>
 
Check out this post by doggman. Sounds like it might be the same problem.</p>


http://compacttractorreview.com/cs/forums/p/2658/10900.aspx#10900</p>
 
Never had or seen it happen, but cannot be to much wrong ~~~~ Sounds like another " Yoke" jumped out of track. But that's just my opinion. Just basing on some other threads I've read in the past somewhere >>>>></p>


From what I remember, all one has to do is take a plate off the top of the tranny, and put the shifting yoke back in place. Better let someone else go there that has done this, for that , I have not ......</p>


~~~~~~~~~~ jamie </p>
 
This does sound like the shifting "fork" problem. Many folks fix it themselves. There are several threads on that here. Hopefully , this will get you moving again.. Keep us informed. Bordercollie</p>
 
That thread of doggmans gives verbal directions for fixing this .. Robuta has had this problem as well and watched as it was fixed. This posts may take some digging to find but they are good reading. Good Luck. I'm a big chicken when it comes to disassembling important stuff as I always seem to come up with extra parts :) so now I take pictures. Bordercollie<br _moz_editor_bogus_node="TRUE" /></p>
 
<span style="font-size: 10pt; color: black; font-family: Arial;">Well I pulled the shifter off and I assume that the fork you guys are talking about is on the shifter part that comes off the top of the Trans. I wish it was that simple,there are two alum pieces under that plate that the shifter goes into.The one on the pass side is broke in half. From the looks of ityou have to pull the Trans and disassemble<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<span style="font-size: 10pt; color: black; font-family: Arial;">Well got my rtv back from the dealer, man what a difference. Shifts smoothly and has way more power climbing hills. Along with the fork being broken the linkage was all off. I was going to sell it after I got it back but now I'll keep it, it's like a whole new machine.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<span style="font-size: 10pt; color: black; font-family: Arial;">It took about two weeks to get it back, most of that was waiting for parts. Shift fork snapped in half bad pinion shaft, all linkage adjusted had them replace both rear inner u-joints while it was all apart and it seems like they fixed the rattling front driveshaft yoke. $1600 out the door 17 man hours, money well spent.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
 
I am glad that you are pleased. Did they have to pull out the trans to fix that pinion shaft? I would just about be sick if I was facing that cost of repair and would just have to wait till some other way or plan came along.How many miles were on your unit ? Bordercollie</p>
 
OUCH!! I have lots of time and tools but little money. I would have to tackle it myself even if it involved a major disassembly.My rtv is about the only equipment I ever bought new cause I could not find a used one back then.</p>
 
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<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: black; font-family: Arial;">Eng and Trans had to come out and Trans split in half, probably the reason the guy sold it.Bought it used350 hrs on it. I thought that the way it was shifting was normal reading the post here,looks like I was wrong. It's a 04 with no pressure reliefvalve and now it shifts almost smooth as silk. So if you guys are having problems with shifting I would check all the linkage. Does anyone out there have any directions on how to set up the linkages? I know I could do this myself with the knowledge. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
 
I'm glad your repairs ended with such a satisfying improvement. I'm wondering if some of the complaints that we've heard over the years about no hill climbing power are gear and linkage problems. Who'd a thunk it? </p>


I'm going to order a shift fork for backup now that I know that they will break.I think someone said in the posts that the new models have an improved shift design. Right now the design looks like a 9-NFord - which was a technological breakthrough and revolutionized farming - when it came out in 1939. </p>


In answer to your question about an auxiliary hydraulic hook-up for your road scraper, it looks like you'll need a dual outlet blockto control both features. I think you can get the dual outlets from Kubota. I'm think about setting ours up with the full time auxiliary to run hydraulic tools. I'll post on here when I do. </p>
 
doggman there are3 different shift forks in the trans. Two inside the trans that move the gears inside and one on the top of the trans that moves the inside forks. The eng and trans has to be removed and the trans split in half to change the shift fork that was broken on mine. The fork I think you are talking about is on top of the trans held on by four bolts and the cables attach to it. </p>
 
I'll lay you money that those forks were broken by someone trying to force a shift. I have only run m 320 hr 1995 about twenty hours since I bought it a few months ago,but love the unit. Mine gets bound up when stopped on a hill as do all these until Kubota recently changed the hydraulics ( I am told) to stop this. If someone doesn't have some common sense they could well reef on the shifter lever to force the gear shift when unit is stopped with load on transmission. That could well break the aluminum shifting fork. Since your shifts smoothly now at all times it sounds like they did the transmission upgrade when they went inside. On Ebay there is someone selling a hydraulic spool valve which has a relief hole/device in it to allow the blocked hydraulic pressure to escape. This causes the unit to not stop with the surge when you get off the throttle and probably allows the hydraulic pressure to be relieved which in turn unlocks the gears. This is just my speculation. Do you know if the dealer installed an upgrade on this during the rebuild. Anyway, I jog my machine when it is stopped and won't shift until the level moves with little effort. This is necessary in my opinion to prevent what happened to your machine before you got it.</p>


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MOSHENFREKE and ZENCHAL26..............</p>


I have similiar issues particularly with L range on my 04 with 110hrs on it. Did anyone ever find a write up on the linkage set-up? I don't believe the problem I have is the pressure relief issue but more related to the linkage as you discussand I should probably check the linkage adjustment. </p>


I do have the pressure relief issue as wellas it is an 04 so doesn't have the dash ddevice or the brake pedal relief as the newer ones have, but I can live with that now that I understand it but the linkage is something I want to check into.</p>


Thanks for the posts.</p>
 
Have ya'll tried turning the steering wheel hard till the steering pump whines for a second?? That helps me shift 8 out of 10 times. I agree about the excess force used creating problems with the shifting hardware. My unit was bought in Feb 05 and was put together in Dec. 04.. I have 2654 hrs on it. Bordercollie</p>
 
On the linkage adjustment. I checked my workshop manual and I THINK what you are talking about is on page 2-s14 .I think this material is copyrighted so I doubt I could post it exactly as a copy. Maybe you could go to your dealer and see if he would run ya'll one off. Basically though, you are putting the machine on flat ground,looking at the lock nuts on the shift arm, and under the hood all the while making sure there is no slack with the shifter in N. It describes how to loosen all of the connections with the shifter still in N and retightening . There is also an adjustment for the 4 wd on the next page 2-s15. And to top that off, the speed control cable is back in there too and can be adjusted ... I wonder if this speed cable was mispositioned on a previous posters thread about power loss on his machine???? He had replaced a melted hydro tank and rebuilt the pump but had lost speed..?? Just wonder?? ...Bordercollie</p>
 
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