Hydralic Transmission Screen Location

T

twoforty

New member
Would one of you happen to have pictures of the plate that must be removed to pull the transmission screen out for cleaning on a YM240? I'm thinking it is on the right side where the hydraulic lines connect, but would like to see a photo. What can I say - visual learner. I've been told that it take 16 quarts to change the Trans-Hydraulic fluid. Can anyone verify? Additionally, with filter change, what is the engine oil capacity?
Thank you out front for the assist!
 
Thank you Sir Winston! I will have additional questions about this YM 240, but would also like to know if anyone can tell me where I might go to find information on a Hinomoto.
Found one for $900 and it runs great, but it's loosing water somewhere. I suspect it is either a blown hose or radiator. Oil looks good. Anyway, that is for a Hinomoto site if such a creature exists.
 
twoforty said:
Thank you Sir Winston! I will have additional questions about this YM 240, but would also like to know if anyone can tell me where I might go to find information on a Hinomoto.
Found one for $900 and it runs great, but it's loosing water somewhere. I suspect it is either a blown hose or radiator. Oil looks good. Anyway, that is for a Hinomoto site if such a creature exists.
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Welcome to the Forum! :tiphat:

There's at least one Hinomoto thread in the other brands forum.

http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16

Start a thread there with Hinomoto in the title and see if any can help you.

Jim
 
Twoforty, welcome!

Looks like Winston got back to you first. We have a friendly rivalry :respect: in who has the best, and equally important, first! :mrgreen: reply to a Yanmar inquiry. One for you, Winston! :tiphat:


Here's the opening you are looking for. Lower front center of the transmission on a YM240 (2wd).

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And here's what you might find in there worst case. I found a wrong, too-fat o-ring melted in place sealing the filter at that shoulder. The filter was intact before I started tugging on it... :ohmy: So - $50 for a new filter from Hoyetractor and now it's worked great for the past ten years. I've cleaned the filter once after that after maybe 8 years use and it didn't really need it.
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Here's the old post where I first posted those pictures (and some others) on here. That was a thread where a new YM240 owner was asking all the obvious new-owner questions. You might like to look through that thread.

These things are great toys, no?
 
I have seen a flat triangular gasket with 3-holes in my gasket kit that came with the tractor. Looks like it would fit something to that shape.

On my YM2610 that location is at the back of the tractor lower right to the PTO shaft. I'll be looking at this too when the wether is more agreeable.
 
Sounds like I will have to take the plate off to find out whether I have the o-ring or gasket. Bummer. Thanks for the info everyone and thanks for the additional info Winston.
 
I bought the paper gasket along with the filter. But the next time I inspected/cleaned the filter I used red RTV sealer in place of a paper gasket. You just need that cover to not leak oil, nothing fancy. Its not under pressure, its just an oil reservoir.

Wherever Yanmar used an o-ring for sealing, they intended it to be re-used. Whatever you find there, just re-use the o-ring or replace paper with RTV sealer.

As I learned, and noted above, that internal o-ring around the middle of the filter that separates the sump side of the filter from the cleaned oil chamber is more critical. For that one, it is worthwhile to order the correct part to use at the next filter inspection.

I had forgotten: As Winston pointed out there is an Early and Late version of the filter screen, and also Early/Late inspection covers. Including the tractor Serial Number when you order parts is a good idea.

Like the reusable o-ring here, the valve cover gasket is made from sheet rubber and is intended to be re-usable. Yanmar put a lot of thought into making these easy for the owner to maintain.


Re the Hinomoto - is it listed in Tractordata? Some of the small Massey Ferguson models were rebadged Hinomotos so you might find it is well supported. And they were certainly respected as a top quality brand. I might take a chance on it - with the expectation it might cost some money to get it running.
 
California,
I've owned the Hinomoto for several very trouble free years. It unfortunately, does not match up with the MF (whichever term you'd rather) as I've felt a many a time that a MF was in fact a MF on the old soybean farm. Lately, it will not hold water in the radiator, but it hasn't been warm enough to feel comfortable filling it up with water to see if I can find the leak. Hopefully, not a rotted radiator, but rather a split hose or something simple.

I recently picked up the YM 240 for $1K with a 4ft cutter, 4ft two row disk, and a middle buster. The fuel pump had been removed and the previous owner said it was bad. Looking at the factory fuel filter, it would not be a surprise. Considering that one can not blow through the Fram in-line that looks like it came off of an old Ford 300-I6, well better safe than sorry. It is being rebuilt as I type and as I understand it, when it is re-installed, it will have to be timed - which is my next question. Is it true that this has to be done by a machine?
Thanks all!
 
Timing is done with shims under the injector pump. If the shims haven't been changed the timing should be correct. However, if the pump is rebuilt I am not sure? Timing does not have to be done with a machine. There is a procedure for doing it. If it were me I would install it back with the same shims. Crank her up and if no problems lay my head down and go to sleep at night. I am sure we can come up with the correct procedure for the 240 if needes.
 
Agreed, but unfortunately, the fuel pump was removed when I purchased the machine. No idea which shim(s) go where. To this end, it is at a John Deer Service Facility. I may be mistaken, but I believe Yanmar did make some JD tractors under contract. Thus, the procedure should at least be similar and they have agreed to do it. The quote was 1/2 what I gave for the tractor, but having seen this tractor in operation less than a year ago, I believe I'll still have quite a bargain should this get it up and running again. Tractor shows 362 total hours. If not and regardless, if there is a procedure for "setting the timing" of the Yanmar fuel pump, I'd be quite interested in getting my hands on it.
 
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You need a YM240 Service Manual (dealer's shop manual), or at least the I&T manual for YM240 that is continually listed on Ebay for $30 or less.

As I recall (don't have the manual here) I read there is a TDC mark on the front pulley and another mark 20?? degrees advanced from that for injection timing. You just turn the crank slowly (and safely!) and see if the injector lines spurt at exactly that timing mark. Shims between the pump and the block adjust timing.

And one weirdness to keep in mind - Yanmar's primary focus is marine engines, with various numbers of cylinders. So they start counting cylinder # from the flywheel end of the block, not from the water pump end. On a YM240 #2 cylinder is nearest the water pump, etc.

The 3-digit hour meter is just a maintenance reminder, not total hours since new.
 
CA and Winston,
I can not begin to thank you enough for your efforts to assist. At this point, I am resigned to see if the local John Deere Service Center can in fact get the fuel pump reinstalled and in the process, get it running correctly. I have, however, made a short list of the information you have provided to relay to them in the event that they are clueless. Once running, I will keep you posted and hope to have pictures. Thanks to your advice and the information you have provided, I feel confident in performing a complete service on this tractor from changing the engine oil through replacing the transmission / hydraulic fluid. I could use some information, which may be in the info provided by Winston on the capacity of the cooling system. I have acquired the correct replacement parts to change the oil filter, fuel filter, and air filter and eliminate the in-line fram filter and will be doing this prior to the installation of the rebuilt fuel pump. Again, you have been a great help and I know that once I am able to get the tractor running, I will be coming back for some additional help. One thing that I noticed is that someone has taken bailing wire and eliminated the possibility of moving one of the levers directly beneath the operator's chair. I suspect that this is the high / low range shift. Regardless, it does not need to be wired in this position though I fear that it was done as a necessity. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks Again!
 
Sure can't know but that baling wire may be to hold it from jumping out of range gear. California has experienced that.
 
I found a heavy rubber tarp strap on my Hi/lo range shifter when I bought the tractor in 2003. Took it off to see what would happen.

Next time I was lurching down a rough dirt road at maximum speed, it jumped out of gear. I assume when the driveline went slack for a moment.

I put it back on. (And have replaced it with a fresh one a couple of times over the past 10 years, just to be sure).

No further problems.

This pulls near straight back so it pulls back in high range, and slips down to the base of the lever in low range. It doesn't need to be adjusted when changing ranges.

I've read that the YM240/YM2000 range selector detent seems to go weak after 20+ years and the permanent fix is to split the tractor and replace two gears. Per Danny Parker of PEQ equipment. He said he has repaired several.


Sorta related: a similar fix a friend's dad had back in the dirt track jalopy-racing days: he welded a hook to the dashboard of his 36 Ford. Put the floor-shift lever into the hook to hold it in second gear.
 
It would seem that the CA solution offers the opportunity to use low range if needed where the LA solution does not. Hope all have successful and uneventful weekends!

California said:
I found a heavy rubber tarp strap on my Hi/lo range shifter when I bought the tractor in 2003. Took it off to see what would happen.

Next time I was lurching down a rough dirt road at maximum speed, it jumped out of gear. I assume when the driveline went slack for a moment.

I put it back on. (And have replaced it with a fresh one a couple of times over the past 10 years, just to be sure).

No further problems.

This pulls near straight back so it pulls back in high range, and slips down to the base of the lever in low range. It doesn't need to be adjusted when changing ranges.

I've read that the YM240/YM2000 range selector detent seems to go weak after 20+ years and the permanent fix is to split the tractor and replace two gears. Per Danny Parker of PEQ equipment. He said he has repaired several.


Sorta related: a similar fix a friend's dad had back in the dirt track jalopy-racing days: he welded a hook to the dashboard of his 36 Ford. Put the floor-shift lever into the hook to hold it in second gear.
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