Illuminated Switches

Wild Bill

Wild Bill

Member
So I got my new RTV the Wed before Thanksgiving and it didn't take me long to identify one glaring oversight. The lack of illuminated switches. Wasn't happy to be fumbling for the hazards, turn signals, etc while driving at night. I know I would get used to the positioning after a while but I just can't be satisfied with something "out of the box".

I found one other thread with no real resolution other than adding an interior light which seemed a bit to easy ;-)

I scoured the internet and found that Carling Technologies is the leading manufacturer for switches that mount in the factory holes. I picked up the following illuminated switches from DigiKey.com

480-2163-ND DPDT Momentary On/Off/On for the plow up/down
480-2162-ND DPDT On/Off/On for the turn signals
432-1088-ND SPST On/Off for the headlights, front work lights, rear work lights, interior lights, etc.

I also got a Carling Red SPST Switch from Arrow Manufacturing via E-Bay for the hazard lights.

Note 1 - Since the hazards have juice all the time I needed to use a relay to cut the ground connection for the hazard switch illumination except for when the headlights were turned on.
Note 2 - The switches from Digi-Key all had separate pos/neg terminals specifically for the illumination so it wasn't needed for any of them. (Very nice)

Here is a pic during the daylight showing the replaced switches.
6474558627_1f4bdd61db.jpg


And here's a pic at night
6474559413_9b7bc3d90e.jpg


Next I'm going to be adding an overhead switch panel ala Two Guns at the end of this page.

Thanks for all the great info folks!
 
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Looks nice, always like it when you can make an addition look like it was meant to be that way. Like it came from the dealer that way.
 
........ Great work !!! Looks really professional !!!!!


........ two guns
 

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I figured it was worth the time and effort since I do hours and hours of plowing in the winter. Almost always before the sun rises or after it sets.
 
Lighted switchs are a must especially for old blind guys like me. Yours look really nice and very usefull --good job! I fell into the control switch bar out of a police car. The one for the roof top hailing lights we all dread to see in the rear view mirror!! All 4 switches are illuminated and really help at night. Will post a pic if i can find one.
 
I just ordered a couple of switches and thought I'd share an excellent source for illuminated and custom switches. Plus this chap can etch the switch with whatever wording or object you want (keep it clean!). He handles Carling Contura switches and there is no minimum quantity. Shipping is basicaly at cost. Great chap to talk with and can help you if you're just not sure what to use where. The company is called 'Over The River And Through The Woods' - web site - www.otrattw.com Owner is Jim. It's worth the trip to his site just to see what's available.
 
WOW! Those switches look Great. I think you need a minimum order of 10 switches or so to get icons & wording from Carling. This guy has a great niche!

Wish I knew about him earlier! Thanks for the information.
 
Found what I need there for the CJ7 Jeep & the RTV....
When in doubt , save bullets,
EJECT THEM. :a1:
 

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wiring?

Feel free to consider me 'electronically challenged' but does the lighted switch for the headlights & worklights require additional wiring to a power source for the illumination to work? If yes, then where/how. Thanks.
 
The short answer is yes, they need additional wiring. Now the long answer...

-Your standard SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) switch has a spot for two connections. Line in and line out. The switch is in the middle of that, either making or breaking the connection between the two.
-An illuminated SPST switch has the line in and line out as above plus 2 additional for the illumination, illumination power and ground.

Depending on how/when you want the switches illuminated determines how the illumination gets wired.

-If you want them on the entire time the RTV is running then you can use the line in power and draw off of that for the illumination power
-If you want the switches to be illuminated only when the headlights are on then you need to run a separate wire for the illumination power that draws from the headlight feed.

Let me know if you have any additional questions or if anything needs clarification.
 
Illuminated switches

They say a picture is worth a thousand words, please see attached diagram of Carling's Ventura Switch. For my use, I tied into the dash instrument light circuit and basically ran a series circuit through all the switches. Same for Ground. I used one ground stud and ran all the switches in series. My switches are all LED so there is no detriment to the draw on the instrument circuit. Wiring this way illuminates all the switch background lights when the Headlight switch is on (which I never turn off). When I activate the switch, then the symbol illuminates to indicate the switch is on.
 

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On this newer model does the hour clock keep running if you accidentally leave the key in the on position. There is a fix for the too.
 
I'm not sure about the newest model that was just released but my 2011 900XT DOES run the hour meter whenever the key is turned. Regardless of whether or not the motor is actually running.
 
Has anyone found an aftermarket source for illuminated rocker switches that will connect to Kubota's wiring sockets? I checked the price of an x1100 worklights rocker switch from Kubota and they want $30 for it and I doubt that it is illuminated. That's about 5 times the price of non OEM switches.
 
You could connect to the factory socket with .110 or .187 male connectors and make a jumper that adapts to whatever you need to connect to your aftermarket switch.
 
doublejack said:
Has anyone found an aftermarket source for illuminated rocker switches that will connect to Kubota's wiring sockets? I checked the price of an x1100 worklights rocker switch from Kubota and they want $30 for it and I doubt that it is illuminated. That's about 5 times the price of non OEM switches.
Click to expand...

The price more than likely reflects the amperage that the switch will carry.Most switches are rated at 2 amps.Im sure the worklights will pull 50 to 55 watts a piece.Back in the day when fog lights were popular they used relays to carry the current allowing the use of a 2 amp switch.All of the lighting on my machine has illuminated switches but I have a relay on each one to carry the current the big things draw.You can do a google search for 12 volt relays for automotive.I think i got a 10 pack of relays and harnesses for less than 20 bucks.
like this.
41tqAPmJvuL._SY450_.jpg

ill do some browsing seeing im having a ruff night sleeping and see if i can find the big pack for ya....Pauseeeeeeeeee
link to ebay site
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-pc-12-VO...US_Relays_Sensors&hash=item3cea2f391b&vxp=mtr


$_12.JPG


pack of 10 12 volt relays and harness rated at 40 amps.I use them for all of my 12 volt needs that draw some serious juice.Also you will want to add inline fuses of corse
Hope this helps
Make that 5 relays and 5 sockets they call it a 10 piece set.
Ill do more looking if you are interested.


10 pack or 20 piece set for 21 bucks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-pk-12V-3...US_Relays_Sensors&hash=item3cea41da94&vxp=mtr
at auto stores they charge 8 to 10 bucks just for the relay with no harness
Mark
 
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