Installed OEM Heater in 2014 X900 need a little help

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628pm

Active member
I installed the OEM heater in my X900 this weekend. Everything installed properly, but it is not heating right. The instructions said that was caused by air still being in the sytem.

I followed the instructions by loosening (if that is a word), the heater hose by the thermostat letting fluid come out then tightening. Next you open up the shut off valve hose (thermostat heat hose again), keeping it open until fluid comes out again. Then you should be good to go. Tried that several times, only thing that did was cause a mess.

Any ideas, will be calling the dealer tomorrow who sold me the RTV and the OEM heater.

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
628pm said:
I installed the OEM heater in my X900 this weekend. Everything installed properly, but it is not heating right. The instructions said that was caused by air still being in the sytem.

I followed the instructions by loosening (if that is a word), the heater hose by the thermostat letting fluid come out then tightening. Next you open up the shut off valve hose (thermostat heat hose again), keeping it open until fluid comes out again. Then you should be good to go. Tried that several times, only thing that did was cause a mess.

Any ideas, will be calling the dealer tomorrow who sold me the RTV and the OEM heater.

Thanks in advance for any help.
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628
Take a look at this picture you need to open this Valve and bleed it from there it is located on the back of the unit this is the highest point in the system and needs to bleed from that point.

The reason I know it I was at my dealers the other day picking up my shop manual for my 1100 and was talking with the dealer and he had installed a oem heater in a 900 and was having problems with it running hot and not making heat and we were standing by a new one and I ask him what that valve was for and he said what valve. And I pointed to it and he said wait one minute I will be back he run in the back in the shop came back 5 mins later and said that's what it was had air in the system.

So if you haven't bleed it there yet I would give it a try and I hope this helps.
Good luck
 
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628
For some reason I can't post pictures now that I downloaded IOS 8 on my iPad. So I have no picture sorry about that.

But the valve is right on the back of the unit where the top of the dump bed come across it is black with a white plastic turn wing. Can't miss it.

Sorry for no pic but looks like Apple has put the screws to me or the app needs updated.
 
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I tried that. Looks like a white plastic wing nut on back of the cab facing the bed. The valve has a groove in it if you open it up some.

Will try that again.

Thanks for the info.
 
628pm said:
I tried that. Looks like a white plastic wing nut on back of the cab facing the bed. The valve has a groove in it if you open it up some.

Will try that again.

Thanks for the info.
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That's the one. My next move would be run the engine until the RTV is warmed up and thermostat is opening and closing and bleed it again. Keep a eye on the temp and don't over heat it.

My guess if everything went good with the install its a air problem.

Good luck
 
Tailrotor, I think it is an air problem . It doesn't heat up at all. I drove it for 6 to 8 miles and it only had 3 bars.

I do have a question, what is the correct process to use the valve?

thanks in advance for your help.
 
IM not sure where the radiator is located on the 900 but when bleeding trucks we would drive the truck up a mound of dirt and get the front as high as possible and all the air would rise to that point a lot easer than if it was level and bleed out the radiator cap. But im sure it is just air in the system.
 
628pm said:
Tailrotor, I think it is an air problem . It doesn't heat up at all. I drove it for 6 to 8 miles and it only had 3 bars.

I do have a question, what is the correct process to use the valve?

thanks in advance for your help.
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628pm

From my shop book it calls the valve the engine coolant breather. It just says to open it and close until all air is out.

Next I would check to see if all your hoses are correct and your thermostat is opening and closing correctly and at the correct temp. It may be stuck open and not cycling if it doesn't get hot. My book for the 1100 says opens at 176-183 starts to open and fully open at 203 at full open you should have a gap of .031 if not replace it.

I would go back over every inch of the install and make sure all hoses are open and not pinched off some were or blocked. Hope this helps
 
628pm

One more thing to do is feel all your hoses that you have just installed and see if there hot that way you will know if the water is going through them. Check your heater core that you just installed also to see if you have flow through it even if you have to disconnect the lines to see if there is coolent going to it.

Good luck
 
Tailrotor, thanks for responding.

I went through the complete install. Heater hose going to the heater is hot (from the thermostat housing hose), return is not as hot.

Instructions said to loosen the hose at the thermostat, letting fluid out, then tighten. Then next to the heater (thermostat side again) where a shut off valve is located (it is open), open and let fluid (air) escape. Did that.

No hose are kinked.

So I just believe there is still air in the system. Will run it for a while this morning then open the breather to see if I have a steady flow of fluid.

Then I will go from there.

Thanks for your help. Will let you know if it works.
 
When I installed mine several years ago...if my recollection is correct, I had to loosen the connection at the heater core (return side) more than once as air was migrating to the core as the heater is the highest point in the coolant circulation. You might also try 'chokeing' the hose to the rad which might force more fluid thru the heater and thus purge the air. As another responder suggested...if you park the RTV with the front on an upslope, this may also assist in getting air to rise in this case to the heater core where you can loosen a hose to purge...
 
Checked all lines today, made sure fluid flowed from the lines. Nothing worked . Called the dealer he is going to check into it. Temp gauge never reads over 2 or 3 bars. I even placed a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator like I used to do in my 49 jeep. That wouldn't raise the temp either. Will probably be taking in to the dealer for them to check the thermostat which will be a warranty issue.
 
628pm said:
Checked all lines today, made sure fluid flowed from the lines. Nothing worked . Called the dealer he is going to check into it. Temp gauge never reads over 2 or 3 bars. I even placed a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator like I used to do in my 49 jeep. That wouldn't raise the temp either. Will probably be taking in to the dealer for them to check the thermostat which will be a warranty issue.
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628pm

Sorry to hear you had no luck. Let us know what they fine.

Good luck.
 
Have you tried forcing water through it with a garden hose? This will tell you if you have a problem inside the heater coil.
 
I took the hose loose on the outlet side of the heater while it was running and it would of poured out if I left the hose off. I,m leaning toward the thermostat, will get it into the dealer when he calls me back.
 
If your engine is never coming up to temperature, yes you will never get heat from the heater. But you said you went for a 6 mile run, did it not heat up then, I mean the engine itself. If you feel the engine hoses are they real hot after a run like that?

Otherwise yes your thermostat is stuck open if everything is too cool.

My 2008 900 OEM heater which mounted under the dash on the driver's side had a shut off in-line just before the heater. As I remember now we had very little trouble getting it bleed.

Air locks are always hard to solve, but a must is to have it hot enough for the thermostat to be open and moving fluid, then loosen the return line to force out any air. You're looking to get enough flow to allow the coolant to flush out the air. Too little free flow will not move the air.

Good luck.
 
The hoses are warm not hot enough to pull my hand away though. I drove it then bled it per instructions of the heater installation. Did it several times. The new 2014"s have a bleed valve on the back of the cab ( per threads above). Have bled that also (this valve is the highest point of the coolant system.
 
628pm....what you are experiencing may be normal..My 04 RTV with Curtis cab and heater that vents thru driver side cup holder blows warm air but never hot. In winter when outside temps are are say 10-15f, the interior might reach 45f. When I aquired the cab, the dealer cautioned me that it would not get as comfy as my tractor....and it doesn't..Not to say there may be improvements in your setup that can be made but mine raises the cab temp sufficiently to be able to operate the snow blade controls without gloves...but you certainly wouldn't want to cruise around in it in your undies.
 
Kanook said:
628pm....what you are experiencing may be normal..My 04 RTV with Curtis cab and heater that vents thru driver side cup holder blows warm air but never hot. In winter when outside temps are are say 10-15f, the interior might reach 45f. When I aquired the cab, the dealer cautioned me that it would not get as comfy as my tractor....and it doesn't..Not to say there may be improvements in your setup that can be made but mine raises the cab temp sufficiently to be able to operate the snow blade controls without gloves...but you certainly wouldn't want to cruise around in it in your undies.
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PS: This is a RTV900 NOT a RTV11xx with factory cab heat/ac..and the older 900's at least allow an awful lot of out side air in thru the dash...mine is stuffed with foam to block a lot of the air entry.
 
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