Kubota add on windshield wiper

T

TechJunkie

Active member
So time is drawing nearer to the X1140 coming into my dealer. Quick question for you Kubota experts. I am considering the add on windshield wiper kit. I am getting the glass windshield and wondered the pros and cons to the windshield wiper. Only down side is it doesn't come with a sprayer like the windshield wiper on the X1100c. I see the benefit in the winter or if I am caught out when it really starts to rain. Other than that, without the sprayer, dust will have to wait until I could put cleaner on it.

Anyone have this option and if so was it worth it?

Thanks for all the help so far. I received final approval from my finance committee (and she who's opinions greatly matters!) and I am finalizing the accessories I want installed.

Brian (TechJunkie)
 
ItBmine

ItBmine

Well-known member
You can't get a washer kit for it? I would still get the wiper and if nothing else, just keep a dollar store spray bottle in the cab with you.
 
T

TechJunkie

Active member
ItBmine said:
You can't get a washer kit for it? I would still get the wiper and if nothing else, just keep a dollar store spray bottle in the cab with you.
Click to expand...
ITBmine: You must know my dad! HAHA. This was his exact suggestion! I guess great minds think alike! Thank you for the suggestion! As to the washer kit, I didn't see one but I am going cross eyed at this point. I will keep looking. If so It is something I could install myself. In fact, several of the accessories I am inclined to install. I am particular on wiring installation. I have seen some really bad wiring jobs in the past.
 
ItBmine

ItBmine

Well-known member
Can I throw a question at you now TechJunkie? You were speaking of how you like to do your own wiring. I just discovered that I can't use my front and rear work lights at the same time.
My dealer used the factory switches and the factory 15 amp fuse for the worklights. But they put a big LED light bar on the front and two small LED lights on the rear. I have no idea what watt or amperage they are.

I wonder if the factory wiring will take a 20 amp fuse if I try one? Or if I'll burn something up. Going to be a pain plowing if I have to turn lights on and off every time I change direction.
 
T

TechJunkie

Active member
ItBmine said:
Can I throw a question at you now TechJunkie? You were speaking of how you like to do your own wiring. I just discovered that I can't use my front and rear work lights at the same time.
My dealer used the factory switches and the factory 15 amp fuse for the worklights. But they put a big LED light bar on the front and two small LED lights on the rear. I have no idea what watt or amperage they are.

I wonder if the factory wiring will take a 20 amp fuse if I try one? Or if I'll burn something up. Going to be a pain plowing if I have to turn lights on and off every time I change direction.
Click to expand...
Can I ask, when you say you "can't use my front and rear work lights at the same time" do you mean you have tried and it blows a fuse or wiring has melted? Do you have the Kubota Multiple accessory wiring harness with the Kubota fuse block or individual wire runs with inline fuses?
 
ItBmine

ItBmine

Well-known member
Yes, if I put both on at same time they blow the fuse after about 20 seconds or so. They are separate factory switches and wiring, and the factory 15 amp fuse in the fuse box under the seats. That's all I know until I go talk to my dealer. They used all the factory stuff except put the LED lights instead of the factory halogen work lights.

I want to try a 20 amp fuse, but I don't want to burn anything up right at the start of plowing season, LOL
 
T

TechJunkie

Active member
ItBmine said:
Yes, if I put both on at same time they blow the fuse after about 20 seconds or so. They are separate factory switches and wiring, and the factory 15 amp fuse in the fuse box under the seats. That's all I know until I go talk to my dealer. They used all the factory stuff except put the LED lights instead of the factory halogen work lights.

I want to try a 20 amp fuse, but I don't want to burn anything up right at the start of plowing season, LOL
Click to expand...
In my opinion, each light should either be on separate fuses or you have to have a larger fuse. If you use a larger fuse you have to be sure the wire gauge is adequate for the amperage so you don't overload the wire and melt it or worse cause a fire. I am surprised they wired all the lights to a 15 amp fuse but I don't know the draw of your lights. Do you know what the wire gauge is? If you know what lights you have you might be able to find the amperage draw online. I normally zone my wiring such that the front light bar is on one fuse and back lights are on another. That way if a fuse gets weak and blows I don't loose all my lights.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Doc
ItBmine

ItBmine

Well-known member
Had a heck of a time finding those fuses for the RTV. Even my dealer had none. They are "Low Profile Mini"
I found mini's and micro's but only one place in town had low profile.

I know I wired my tractor myself and it has probably bigger LED lights front and back and I have them through one 20 amp fuse it and it has never blown.
Everyone I talked to at dealer seems to think they wiring will withstand a 20 amp fuse. I might try it if I get brave enough.
 
T

TechJunkie

Active member
ItBmine said:
Had a heck of a time finding those fuses for the RTV. Even my dealer had none. They are "Low Profile Mini"
I found mini's and micro's but only one place in town had low profile.

I know I wired my tractor myself and it has probably bigger LED lights front and back and I have them through one 20 amp fuse it and it has never blown.
Everyone I talked to at dealer seems to think they wiring will withstand a 20 amp fuse. I might try it if I get brave enough.
Click to expand...
Report back. I plan on getting the multi accessory wire harness with my X1140 so it would be great to know how it worked for you.
 
geohorn

geohorn

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
Short-Story: Contrary to popular belief…Fuses do not protect the appliance. They protect the WIREing to prevent it from overheating becoming incandescent and starting a fire.
TechJunkie has it correct…. find out the smallest gauge wire in the particular circuit involved…and fuse it accordingly. OR… rewire the lights, separating the front and rear LEDs into dedicated circuits…and fuse them independently.
A typical LED lightbar will draw appox 10Amps. Two…. will blow a 15A fuse.
The most common general-purpose wire gauge on an RTV is 14 ga and that should be protected with a 15A fuse.
A 12 ga wire can handle 20A, and a 10 ga wire can handle 30.
Special-purpose wire with special insulation can handle about 20% higher amp….. but the ratings just mentioned are best for safety.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Doc
ItBmine

ItBmine

Well-known member
Agree 100% geohorn. That's why I really don't want to go higher on the fuse.

I'll wait until plowing season is done before I redo it. I also need to add a ferrite filter to the wiring too because these LED lights they installed kill the FM radio signal when I have them on.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Doc
geohorn

geohorn

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
ItBmine said:
Agree 100% geohorn. That's why I really don't want to go higher on the fuse.

I'll wait until plowing season is done before I redo it. I also need to add a ferrite filter to the wiring too because these LED lights they installed kill the FM radio signal when I have them on.
Click to expand...
Then they installed cheap L.E.D.s. Quality LEDs will not interfere.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Doc
ItBmine

ItBmine

Well-known member
You betcha! Buy cheap, increase profit. But I don't mind because no way I'd ever pay Rigid prices for any light.

Can't listen to FM radio at night, but at least the lights are free replacement warrantied for life.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Doc
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top