New (Used) Tractor Overheating

[BrianStL]

Recently replaced our smaller Kubota farm tractor for this new (used) L3901 (2018) that only has 169 hours on it.

My wife mowed on it with zero issues for about 3 hours. As you can see we are in the middle of a pasture reclamation project, so you can get a sense that this is a heavy, fairly constant load. The pasture on the other side of our creek is even higher with even more growth.


First 3 hours of cuts, no problem.

After the 3 hours it began to overhear and the EM light kicked on. That's when the problems began...

First, here's our cutting behavior SINCE it kicked on:

1). Mowing on medium speed with the deck a good 4-5 inches off the ground.
2). RPM's over 2500
3). Going slow-ish on Medium speed
4). Stopping every 15-20 minutes and blowing out the all the cutting particulates that are catching next to the radiator.
5). We've removed the new air filter and blown it out

Finally, I am brand new to the regen process. Our old tractor did not have the regen feature and I am wondering if it just needs to be regen'ed? I will say, however, when the tractor cools, the light does turn off.

Finally, it's never getting "in the red" on the temperature thermostat, but it's definitely running 2/3 'hot.'

Oh - and to regen... I put on the parking brake, let it run over 2k RPM's and then hold down the button on the right for a few seconds and the regen process should kick off/take over?

Any guidance or help would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to have to take it into the dealer if this is something we can do ourselves.

THANK YOU!!

 

[Fedup]

I can't speak to the regen nonsense as I don't work on electronic engine related problems. I'm far more experienced in common sense fuel systems than common rail.

The heating problem is most likely due to not properly cleaning out the radiator. I see this more often than you would think. Mowing tall stuff this late in the season always comes with these issues. You're probably doing what you think is a good job of it but still not getting it all. When I blow out a radiator it usually takes about twenty minutes to do much of a job at it. I use a pancake compressor that takes a while to build up when using it continuously so there's a lot of wait time involved. Newer tractors with the battery, air filter, and often numerous coolers in the road make it difficult to actually get into the front of the core and blow the small crap through. It takes time and patience to get all and should be done more frequently than you think. An extended wand air nozzle with a 90 degree tip is often the only way to do a proper job.

 

[BrianStL]

I can't speak to the regen nonsense as I don't work on electronic engine related problems. I'm far more experienced in common sense fuel systems than common rail.

The heating problem is most likely due to not properly cleaning out the radiator. I see this more often than you would think. Mowing tall stuff this late in the season always comes with these issues. You're probably doing what you think is a good job of it but still not getting it all. When I blow out a radiator it usually takes about twenty minutes to do much of a job at it. I use a pancake compressor that takes a while to build up when using it continuously so there's a lot of wait time involved. Newer tractors with the battery, air filter, and often numerous coolers in the road make it difficult to actually get into the front of the core and blow the small crap through. It takes time and patience to get all and should be done more frequently than you think. An extended wand air nozzle with a 90 degree tip is often the only way to do a proper job.

This is incredibly helpful and, frankly, I married into 35 acres and farm equipment so I'm a walking dummy on matters such as this.

I *DO* have experience working/rebuilding engines, and my gut was telling me that this was likely an airflow issue.

Since this post I have ordered a filter kit to replace (literally) every filter on the tractor.

I also will start with your advice first: I have a pancake compressor and will spend time going through with a fine-toothed comb and blow out every imaginable nook and cranny. I have a Shindaiwa backpack blower that has some serious HP, but clearly the frontal assault, brute force method isn't getting into the spots I need.

Again, appreciate the response the guidance. Much appreciated!

 

[Fedup]

A backpack blower is about as helpful as a hog with a newspaper. It has little effect other than blow the fuzz off the screen. It won't do a thing for what's lodged down in the core of the radiator. I prefer the frontal assault, straight into the fins with a direct stream of compressed air. Not water. Grass fluff moves best when dry. Some will say you need to blow from rear to front. I rarely do that other than an occasional test just to see if anything else comes out, but mostly from the front towards the engine. Straight in, row by row, and often multiple times. You try that and you will be surprised at how much crap you get out. The operating temperature on your next outing will tell the tale.

 

[bczoom]

I love backpack blowers but not on anything that has fins (e.g. A/C, Heat Pump, radiator...). I've bent the fins so that's no longer a place for that machine.