Have thie RTV 900 that h as work front shaft u joints and the rear drive axle joints are loose also. Are these "standard" joints from a ujoint/driveshaft place or are they specific for this unit? Has anyone experienced an unusual failure rate on the u joint/shaft systems- front or rear? Thanks!</p>
RTV 900 U Joints
- Thread starter texczech
- Start date
TWO GUNS
Senior Member
texczech,</p>
WELCOME TO THE FORUM >>>>>></p>
Myself, have not had any problems with the u-joints,but there are some threads on this site that deals with and tells more about the u-joint situations. Some of them, from what I remember, has some great links. </p>
Nowwhen the time comes where the u-joints are showing wear, I will be replacing them with some that has greaseable fitting in them. I've read somewhere where they have those for the RTV's ........ </p>
Give this thread a little time, some member that has delt with this, will jump in and have a good answer for you !!!!</p>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: JohnHancock;"><span style="color: #ff0000;"> ~~~~~~~~ </span></span></span><span style="font-size: medium; color: #ff0000; font-family: JohnHancock;">Two Guns ~~~~~~</span></p>
WELCOME TO THE FORUM >>>>>></p>
Myself, have not had any problems with the u-joints,but there are some threads on this site that deals with and tells more about the u-joint situations. Some of them, from what I remember, has some great links. </p>
Nowwhen the time comes where the u-joints are showing wear, I will be replacing them with some that has greaseable fitting in them. I've read somewhere where they have those for the RTV's ........ </p>
Give this thread a little time, some member that has delt with this, will jump in and have a good answer for you !!!!</p>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: JohnHancock;"><span style="color: #ff0000;"> ~~~~~~~~ </span></span></span><span style="font-size: medium; color: #ff0000; font-family: JohnHancock;">Two Guns ~~~~~~</span></p>
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Guest
Guest
The known issues usually occure in the driveline, not in the axle joints. As was said, just take a zerk in there when you put a replacement in and you should have no issues. </p>
Hi Texchech, I have had the rear joints replaced [the ones coming from the rear wheels toward the transmission] at about 2000 hrs and have replaced the ujointed drive shaft once. The greasable fittings are the way to go. How much wear is showing on the rear joints, any noises yet? How many hrs on your machine?It has been a very busy 2 weeks and have anotherday or two to go,but then will be on the forum more. Bordercollie</p>
Hi Texchech, My rear ujoints went bad by 2000 or so hrs. Research the thread"rear u joints are out". on this siteI have seen other articles onhere as well concerning this problem. I got help on this job although I have done all other work myself....drive shafts, driveshaft bearings,and now the ball joints.I have heard that the ujoints can be bought atauto parts places butmine came from Kubota.This is what I paid::spider kit{ujoints} $35.62 x 4= 142.48 for both sides. seals $4.22 x 2=$8.44. Ball Bearings Radial 4x $7.90 = $31.60 oil seal 2 x$6.14=$12.28. ... close to $200 for the parts then add taxes and shipping since they were not in stock. It is my understanding that if a person is familiar with whatthey are doing this canbe done in about 3 hrs. One side is almost as expensive as 2 {labor anyway}since most of the work is done in dropping the rear bumper and bed to gain acess to the trans. There are like 3 bolts by where the shaft goes in the trans and you have to remove them to get the job done. Make sure your splines are in good shape before you replace only the ujoints because you can buy the whole assembly together if needed. In the earlier mentioned prices, remember to include an oil and filter changeon the trans since you will be opening er up. My guy didn't do this and thank goodness I checked behind him or I would have been running my trans low on oil{he had lost it when removing the shaft.!!} I think this job is very do able although I didn't do it , I would now. I just bought the shop manual and should have done it earlier. Jack up the rear of the RTV and turn the wheels by hand with the unit in park to see and feel how much wear you have. Mine were shot big time. In the field under heavy load , they started to click and such. You have no idea of the hrs on the machine? The hr meter keeps me in line on oil changes and general maintance. It is really handy. I have 2121 hrson my lifesaver. Good luck, and keep us informed,Bordercollie</p>
vivarioarriba
New member
900 ujoint thank you
NTT Community - I joined today specifically to thank bordercollie and Mark and others for all the advice on changing out RTV 900 ujoints. Really, really helpful and I did use the Subaru Brat ujoints, $11, thankyouverymuch, but they required a little mod which was also contained in the threads, which I cannot now locate to properly thank everyone. But, thank you, everyone.
The only time I did this before it was right after we got the 900's, (used, of course) and one went out right away. We just dove in, literally, because before it was all over it was me and two ranch hands wrestling the rear axle on the floor and lining up and an $80 part from the dealer and so forth. It worked, but it was ugly.
This time we made the rigid axel dohicky for the floor jack. Fantastic. And lots of other tips that helped out.
My big contribution to the process is that I taped down an old sheet of visqueen to the floor just to help on the drips, which it did, but I love it because when you lay down you just scoot around, much better than a dolly. Kept a rag handy for spills and drips. My shop floor is uncoated cement and no matter how much sweeping, when you get up from that floor you are not allowed into the house for lunch. Which is bad.
Again, thanks to you all. Great job. Running like a top.
NTT Community - I joined today specifically to thank bordercollie and Mark and others for all the advice on changing out RTV 900 ujoints. Really, really helpful and I did use the Subaru Brat ujoints, $11, thankyouverymuch, but they required a little mod which was also contained in the threads, which I cannot now locate to properly thank everyone. But, thank you, everyone.
The only time I did this before it was right after we got the 900's, (used, of course) and one went out right away. We just dove in, literally, because before it was all over it was me and two ranch hands wrestling the rear axle on the floor and lining up and an $80 part from the dealer and so forth. It worked, but it was ugly.
This time we made the rigid axel dohicky for the floor jack. Fantastic. And lots of other tips that helped out.
My big contribution to the process is that I taped down an old sheet of visqueen to the floor just to help on the drips, which it did, but I love it because when you lay down you just scoot around, much better than a dolly. Kept a rag handy for spills and drips. My shop floor is uncoated cement and no matter how much sweeping, when you get up from that floor you are not allowed into the house for lunch. Which is bad.
Again, thanks to you all. Great job. Running like a top.
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Gone But Not Forgotten
That is why I have "creeper shirts" and just take it off and put my regular one on. The wife hates rust almost as bad as grease when I get it on my pants and clothes. I sweep the floor but between the RTV, tractors and skid steer it is never clean. On a good day you can roll a creeper around. One of the first things I do when I have a choice is drop the bottom plates and blast everything with the pressure washer. Then put down cardboard or an old sheet to catch bolts and small stuff.