Do you suspect it to be coming from the front or the rear. You mentioned it was like it was still in 4wd. This sounds to me that you may feel it is in the front. If you follow bordercollies lead and recall if your plug had alot of shavings or "crud" it could help in ruling out the front differential or not. Grab a jack and some jackstands and jack up the front end. After you get your jackstands under it (the rtv) and it's resting securely on them you can check your hubs. Grab the front tire, one hand on top and the other on bottom. Alternate pushing and pulling with your hands to see if you have any play. Top hand push bottom hand pull, then top hand pull and bottom hand push. Do this on both sides. We have had to rebuild these many times. Try spinning each tire to see if you hear the noise. If you hear anything, try to isolate it to a particular part. You can also do this to the rear as well. Jack up the rtv, place it on the jackstands and test the rear. Try spinning the wheels, listen for noises. Engage your park brake then try to turn your rear wheels. You will have a little play forwards and backwards when you change directions. Once your propellor shaft stops turning, due to the brake, try to make the tire turn. Look for any "slip" on the wheel or play in the u-joint. You can notice these because the propellor shaft should not move so any form of play should be spotted easily. Try the push-pull method like on the front. I have had a few that had bad bearings or bad u-joints that will make a grinding noise. Hope this helps you, good luck.
Oh, the neutral safety switch that bordercollie mentioned before is the culprit for it starting in gear. Check to see if it starts in all gears or just one or two. The switch sometimes needs to be shimmed. If it starts in some gears but not the others then this is the problem. If it starts in all gears, try loosening the switch a complete revolution or so and see it still starts in gear. If it doesn't start in gear after loosening then the shimming is your problem here too.