RTV-X1140 LED light install

[pioneer]

Installed Nilight LEDs + Nilight wiring harnesses (they include relays, fuses, and rocker switches) on the RTV over the holidays. For power, I ran a dedicated 12ga DC positive wire directly from the positive battery terminal. No new holes were drilled anywhere on the RTV for the install (well, except to mount the dc positive terminal to the inner fender under the hood). I used t-brackets from Lowes for the rear light mounts and "modified" Simpson strong tie mounts (also from Lowes) for the front mounts.

 

[pioneer]

 

[pioneer]

Total cost was approx $200 and approx 12hrs of my time. I'll also add that I did have to modify the rear light wiring harness (cut and then add some length in the middle of the harness to both positive and ground wires) to make it longer to fit the 1140's long length but that was easy.

 

[pioneer]

Front and rear light mounts...

 

[TechJunkie]

Front and rear light mounts...

Ok you Sir have become my HERO! I have been scouring the inter webs trying to find detailed views of the Nilights (or any LED Light Bar for that matter) installed in this way on the X1140. You have hit it out of the park with detailed photos and parts! This is EXACTLY what I am looking to do when my X1140 is hopefully delivered next week. I hope you don't mind I ask, how did you address the front LED Bar wiring through the front window frame? Is there provision for wiring in the frame or do you have to drill and install a grommet? Also, I added the OEM Multi Accessory Wiring Harness with my X1140. I am hoping that I can use this as the power source for my LEDs. I haven't seen it yet so I am uncertain the wire gauge or potential limitations. It is my understanding that this is what Kubota requires for installing their LED lights on the X1140 so I am hoping it works without additional wiring to the battery.

GREAT JOB!

PS: Do you have any pictures of the cable management/routing for the rear lights to the front? Since Kubota doesn't provide a way to run wiring inside the ROPS I assume the wiring gets cable tied to the ROPS.

 

[geohorn]

I mounted my lightbar on top of the roof…slightly behind the leading edge…to avoid illuminating the hood… so as to avoid glare from the hood.
I’ve done my best to wipe it off under the trees and it has withstood all abuse.

 

[pioneer]

I didnt go through the front window frame. I went around.


I routed the wire to the back through this:

 

[TechJunkie]

Thank you. Looks great! Do you get much vibration from the front light bar mounted underneath or much reflected light on the hood? I would prefer to under-mount my light bar as you did so I don't damage it with limbs. Where I will be using the X1140 limbs will be a constant issue.

 

[pioneer]

Hood glare is not an issue at all. With the factory windshield you see very little hood anyway, but I do not see any glare on the small part of the hood this is visible.

Regarding vibration, I do get some vibration when the machine is moving. Upon investigation, it appears to me that the RTV's plastic top is visibly flexing vs the light bar mounting brackets. I believe that vibration could be eliminated (or at least significantly improved) by fab'ing new brackets that held the light bar ~1" closer to the windshield (thereby reducing the length of the lever arm holding the weight of the light bar) and by extending rearward the length of the bracket where it attaches/bolts to the underside of the plastic top by ~1" to the point where it touches the metal frame of the windshield. With that said, I'm not sure there is enough vibration to motivate me to do that but time will tell.

 

[geohorn]

I have found those little 3M sticker-mounts adhesives do not hold up in summer and that eventually the tye-wraps can be used to completely encircle the ROPs and hold the wire just fine. (Another method is to use two tye-wraps…one around the ROPs and the other around the wire and then thru the other tye-wrap.)

I mounted the lightbar to the upper-threaded-ends/protruding from the top of the roof. Since those U-bolts are what holds the roof to the ROPs there is no movement of the lightbar. “Glare” can be interpreted anyway the viewer sees fit. If the hood can “see” the lightbar…the hood will be illuminated by the light and will be emphasized at night…which is/was important to me.

It’s probably worth noting that there are differences between roofs, windshields, and they way they are mounted, so any aftermarket methods will likely be “owner produced” anyway.