RTV-X900 Shift Lever

H

hellasmania

New member
Just purchased a 2015 RTV-X900 new from the dealer. Great machine thus far. I wanted to know if other owners find it difficult to shift from Neutral to H or R gears? Many times the lever will not engage in either direction and I will need to tap the gas pedal or rock the RTV a bit. Thanks
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There are many threads on this. On my 2014 x900, I just pump the brakes a little and it works pretty good. Have someone pump your brakes while you are at the back of your vehicle, you will see a rod moving that is supposed to release pressure to make shifting easier. Also you dealer could make a few adjustments to help.
 
Yeah, this is probably the most common complaint with RTVs. I bought a used 900 this Summer and for the first 20-30 hrs I hated and fought this problem.

The most common recommendation from users is patience. I agree that patience during shifts will most times overcome the problem. But if in steep terrain, patience isn't enough. I found myself using the dash knob to override the HST a LOT.

I studied the Work Shop Manual for my RTV and made some adjustments to the Pressure Relief Valve. This helped a lot. But I also had to teach myself patience to completely overcome this issue.

There's nothing wrong with your RTV. It's performing in the manner it was designed to do. Kubota didn't design anything into the system to overcome the HST binding problem. They left it up to the operator to figure out a solution that works best for him/her.

As Bill mentioned, your dealer can make some adjustments to your machine that will improve it's shifting condition. Those adjustments can also relieve the "sudden stop" syndrome that again is built into the system by Kubota. I installed a "Coast Valve". That's a dramatic improvement.

When I buy a piece of equipment I am very aware of it's operation and how much operator adjustment has to take place before it's effortless to use. I'm like the Elephant, I never forget these things. I was a bit disappointed with Kubota and the issues that were present in the operation of the RTV. Mine is an '08 model so they had ample time to refine the machine and eliminate as many of those issues as they could.

In regards to the shifting problem, they have done very little. So, you have to drive it like an HST tractor. You can't shift them thru the various ranges with pressure on the HST either.

I am installing a Hand Throttle today hoping to improve the torque performance of the machine under heavy load or steep terrain.

Keep us posted on your progress with your machine.
 
The x models don't have a "dash knob", but everything else is very true. I installed the hand throttle a couple of weeks ago, haven't really needed it yet, I installed mine for pushing snow with the boss vplow. You can tell a difference on take off using the hand throttle. I could tell a difference going up inclines when using the hand throttle. Normal driving will not be using it though. Just wanted a little more edge when pushing snow.
 
628pm said:
The x models don't have a "dash knob", but everything else is very true. I installed the hand throttle a couple of weeks ago, haven't really needed it yet, I installed mine for pushing snow with the boss vplow. You can tell a difference on take off using the hand throttle. I could tell a difference going up inclines when using the hand throttle. Normal driving will not be using it though. Just wanted a little more edge when pushing snow.
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Hmmm,,,, now you got my curiosity up. If I didn't have a dash knob there would be times I'd hafta kill the engine to get it out of gear. Wonder how they've overcome that. Maybe some other readers here with newer machines can elaborate???

I think I'd be very frustrated if using mine to push snow. Way too much direction change to be that patient. Again, there are several members here that push snow commercially. You don't hear of any crazed operators terrorizing neighborhoods in their RTVs with a snow blade on so there must be a way to handle it. :)
 
I can usually get it out of gear okay but sometimes it will not go into R or M or L. At those times I bump the accelerator and that usually helps it go in smoothly. On other occasions, especially if on a grade, I cannot get it out of gear at all. In those cases I've shut off the engine rather than risk hurting anything. That relieves the pressure and shifting out of gear is easy peezy. Then just start up and put it in whatever gear is needed. This has not even happened once this year but seemed to happen more when I was new to the machine. As I've got to know it better I do not have the issues near as much. Funny how that works.
 
Doc said:
I can usually get it out of gear okay but sometimes it will not go into R or M or L. At those times I bump the accelerator and that usually helps it go in smoothly. On other occasions, especially if on a grade, I cannot get it out of gear at all. In those cases I've shut off the engine rather than risk hurting anything. That relieves the pressure and shifting out of gear is easy peezy. Then just start up and put it in whatever gear is needed. This has not even happened once this year but seemed to happen more when I was new to the machine. As I've got to know it better I do not have the issues near as much. Funny how that works.
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Yep, all your methods work. And I agree about getting more familiar with the machine and accepting it's quirks.

But that's what I was referring to earlier about a machines personality and quirks when first purchased. I pay close attention to how much I as the operator have to bend to fit the machine. That rub gets a bit raw after awhile.

I'm not a "lawsuit" guy or chronic "complainer". I face the issues and try to improve them. It just disappoints me that Kubota over the past 10+ years hasn't resolved it.

And you are very correct about not forcing anything. All the trans shifting and 2wd/4wd shifting is done with cables. Yank hard enough and at a minimum you'll stretch them, worst case you'll break one.

Sidetrack story. On my M9540 the pins that hold the FEL onto it's frame are held in by a small latching pin that has nothing but gravity holding it in place. Couple Winters ago on another forum guys were complaining about their FELs coming unlatched and doing serious damage. One cold afternoon in the shop I revised the latching pin adding a small spring to hold the pin down. Took about 5 minutes to modify both pins and at a cost of less than a dollar. I sent an email to Kubota about the modification with links to consumer complaints and the resulting damage. Also included pics. Told them I wasn't looking for any consideration at all, just raising what could be a safety issue. I immediately got a reply. They told me to "not make any modifications to the FEL or it's assembly and if I did and it resulted in any damage my warranty would not cover it".............. Really.......... That my friends is a classic example of speaking "Legaleze".
 
I have a 2014 X900 and the first thing I did was adjust to decompression valve and shifting since then has been great. The dealer did not know of the adjustment. It is a wonderful machine and I've put 1700 miles and 310 hours on it in 11 months!
 
BiffNH said:
I have a 2014 X900 and the first thing I did was adjust to decompression valve and shifting since then has been great. The dealer did not know of the adjustment. It is a wonderful machine and I've put 1700 miles and 310 hours on it in 11 months!
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Can you elaborate on this adjustment. Pics would be great. If it's rather complex it might be best to start a new thread about it. Appreciate any information you can pass along.

I've read some stuff about adjusting the forward/reverse pressure relief valves on the 1100 models but not sure it is the same on the 900s.

Again, anything you can clarify will be greatly appreciated. :)
 
ovrszd said:
Can you elaborate on this adjustment. Pics would be great. If it's rather complex it might be best to start a new thread about it. Appreciate any information you can pass along.

I've read some stuff about adjusting the forward/reverse pressure relief valves on the 1100 models but not sure it is the same on the 900s.

Again, anything you can clarify will be greatly appreciated. :)
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I'll take a picture tomorrow. It is easy to do and makes a big difference. I'll post again as soon as I am able.
 
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ovrszd said:
Thank you very much. :)
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The adjustment is simply a regular cable adjustment. When the brake is depressed the cable pulls the lever which in turn pushes the decompression valve into the transmission. The adjustment makes it so that when the brake is depressed the valve is depressed fully. When I took delivery of my machine there was too much play in the cable so when the brake was depressed the valve didn't get fully depressed.

The mechanism is right in the back of the transmission and is easy to get to. It is on the right middle side of the transmission. For clarity I removed the electric connector the attaches to the spade terminal shown in the photo. If unsure about its location have someone depress the brake as you watch the mechanism work. It will be clear then. Good Luck.
 

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Another very useful thread. I think the key to the changes that have been made in the last few years is the connection of the brake pedal to the shifting issue. I think it is rather counterintuitive to think that the brake MUST be used to shift, but that's the design. I'm watching you guys who have the hand throttle closely. Please report back after some use. I have a BX24 tractor and love the way it drives. Constant throttle speed of your choosing and variable speed depending on the pedal position. I think that (along with better power application) is what you will accomplish with the hand throttle. Watching...
 
Nevadablue said:
Another very useful thread. I think the key to the changes that have been made in the last few years is the connection of the brake pedal to the shifting issue. I think it is rather counterintuitive to think that the brake MUST be used to shift, but that's the design...
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This is all about legal liability. Kubota feels it's important for the vehicle to stop and hold itself when releasing the pedal. They only want the HVT to "let go" when the brake pedal is pushed. That way there are no run aways. Install the Coast Valve and you have the potential for run away. Going down a steep grade my RTV will coast faster than the HVT can run. So I am required to move my foot from the go pedal to the stop pedal (brakes). This doesn't bother me and seems like normal driving behavior. But if as an operator of a RTV you are accustomed to the auto stop mode, you'll be freaked out with a Coast Valve. Me personally, I'd rather be a little surprised by a run away from coasting rather than having to fight to change gear selections.....
 
To put this issue into perspective - on regular automobiles one must step on the brake to shift into gear and back into park. The interlock system is quite elaborate. It really isn't a problem once you get used to it. The great engine braking is what I wanted for creeping downhills with a load or blowing leaves. The liability issue is a good reason as well.
 
BiffNH said:
To put this issue into perspective - on regular automobiles one must step on the brake to shift into gear and back into park. The interlock system is quite elaborate. It really isn't a problem once you get used to it. The great engine braking is what I wanted for creeping downhills with a load or blowing leaves. The liability issue is a good reason as well.
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I agree. My current rig (RTV isn't here yet) is a Ranger and I don't like the freewheel 'feature' at all. I use both pedals a lot going down hill. I can't wait to get the 'Great Punkin' home. :a1:

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