RTV1100-motor is done

ovrszd said:
I agree with what you are saying. But in Aurthur's case he got unreliable readings pre turbo. I agree that the actual temps might not be accurate post turbo. But by simply taking that into account, as in your reference of 1400 degrees post turbo actually being 1700 degree pre turbo, couldn't this still be valid info? And if stability is gained in the readings wouldn't that be the best solution?
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I know what he is saying... but something wasn't correct... I have installed Many pyrometers and yes they fluctuated, but with throttle input... And you could, but I think it's a gamble... you never know the exact temp of pre turbo...


aurthuritis said:
actually the EGT post turbo is important because it is easier to melt the turbo than the pistons,at least in a normal situation. also it is easier to fit the probe in the exhaust rather in the manifold, especially in these small engines. put that aside and bigredgoat is correct in that the cyl temp or really the flame duration is what melts the piston. but in my experience the post turbo information can be reliably used to prevent failure. now the real question is??? can the stock piston hold up to intermittent temps of 1200 degrees?
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But in my experience, pre turbo is hotter. So why wouldn't you want to measure it at the hottest point? As far as the probe in manifold, drill the hole, tap it 1/8" and your there. The exhaust would be drill and weld the bung... And the exhaust part of the turbo is steel, and intake is aluminum but it doesn't encounter the heat like the exhaust does...
 
I agree. pre turbo is hotter and is good info to have. i guess it all ads up to any information on the EGT is better than none. something i missed from the original post was>> is there only one piston affected? or did they all show singes of heat stress?
 
BIGREDGOAT said:
Yes sir you are correct aururitis... anything has got to be better!!! I am going to start piecing my turbo kit together....
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Great! will you keep us updated? I would especially like to know what kind of EGT these little engines are capable of. are you planning a pyrometer in yours?
 
aurthuritis said:
Great! will you keep us updated? I would especially like to know what kind of EGT these little engines are capable of. are you planning a pyrometer in yours?
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Honestly, I am it sure. I dont plan on turning the fuel up much if I do. May advance the timing but that will be it. Unless the turbo won't spool correctly. Then may have too... but I dont plan on having a permanent one. Maybe a temporary... I know advancing the injection pump timing will increase cylinder temp. But maybe the turbo will compensate for that...the only thing worrying me is my 900 runs warm... I've done everything possible and no solution worked. But I am thinking of replacing factor temp ??? P gauge with aftermarket that actually shows temp instead of colors haha
 
It only smoked when reving it up. Running full throttle no smoke. I'll try adding pictures of other 2 pistons, not sure if I mentioned it, but head has a hairline crack too.
 
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6mmrem said:
It only smoked when reving it up. Running full throttle no smoke. I'll try adding pictures of other 2 pistons, not sure if I mentioned it, but head has a hairline crack too.
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Hmm well fwiw, diesels can run on a fuel ratio up to 100:1 and not smoke. Lol. Polly just had to much fuel... And yes I am curious to see it, and no you didn't say anything about that...
 
BIGREDGOAT or Aurthuritis,

Can we discuss this fuel ratio, building too much heat issue?? Please bear with my ignorance.

So,, I add a Turbo and change nothing else. I'm assuming a gain in performance. But probably not as much gain as is possible. Am I at risk of burning pistons or building too much heat?? In need of a Pyrometer?

So,, I add a Turbo and add more fuel. I'm assuming a gain in performance. Is that gain going to be the highest possible? Am I at risk of burning pistons or building too much heat?? In need of a Pyrometer?

So,, I add a Turbo. What other things should I do to get the best performance and minimize damage??

I know these questions are kinda broad. I just think myself and others reading this thread without any personal knowledge or experience might benefit from a broader discussion.

I'm also pretty sure 6mmrem can benefit from it as well.
 
ovrszd said:
BIGREDGOAT or Aurthuritis,

Can we discuss this fuel ratio, building too much heat issue?? Please bear with my ignorance.

So,, I add a Turbo and change nothing else. I'm assuming a gain in performance. But probably not as much gain as is possible. Am I at risk of burning pistons or building too much heat?? In need of pyrometer

Yes. It should be a gain in performance and no... forced induction will cool it down to my understanding. As long as no ip mods are performed. And a pyrometer is always a good idea but I wouldn't consider it a must have...

So,, I add a Turbo and add more fuel. I'm assuming a gain in performance. Is that gain going to be the highest possible? Am I at risk of burning pistons or building too much heat?? In need of a Pyrometer?

Yes. One of the biggest advantages with a turbo is more air. Which means more fuel you can burn cleanly. And it will. Make more heat with more fuel. That option is what the OPs problem is. And yes, a pyrometer would be a must have in this situation... And overheating, burning the piston up, scalding the cylinder walls are very possible when you perform mod without gauges..


So,, I add a Turbo. What other things should I do to get the best performance and minimize damage??


This is a tricky, open ended question. Lol. If your can fabricate well, an intercooler would be a great addition. That way the air will be cooler when it gets back to the intake. Because as I am sure we all know, compressing air will make it heat up. Even at as low as 4-5psi. That is something else that i haven't mentioned, that would be a great idea is a turbo boost gauge. It could be temporary, because as soon as you set the waste gate it should be alright then... If you don't set the waste gate, it could be opening too soon and you would be looking power or if it's too tight or you weld it shut, it could over pressure and blow the turbo or blow your headgasket.

I know these questions are kinda broad. I just think myself and others reading this thread without any personal knowledge or experience might benefit from a broader discussion.

I'm also pretty sure 6mmrem can benefit from it as well.
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I will try my best, and all my answers will be bold and underlined beneath each question.
 
I am by no means an expert mechanic, my knowledge is very limited, farmer/carpenter. We have a staffed mechanic. He's been phoning with dealership s around here and it seems to happen on rtv's without turbos. The kubota distribution center for Canada has 18 motors in stock.
If the turbo was indeed at fault, why did it take 3.5 years to burn a hole? Our, mechanic isn't too keen on reinstalling the the turbo with the new motor.
If the turbo gets installed a boost gauge and pyrometer are definitely in order.
Roughly $5280 CAN for a new motor
 
Another option is water injection into the intake manafold. It will cool the intake air some and give more power when it flashes to steam in the cylinders, the additional power comes from the fact that steam has roughly 1800 times the volume of water. And also keep the exhaust gasses cooler. Usually water is mixed with methanol to keep it from freezing. This methanol is also additional fuel to burn as part of the combustion process.
Bryce
 
shinnery said:
Another option is water injection into the intake manafold. It will cool the intake air some and give more power when it flashes to steam in the cylinders, the additional power comes from the fact that steam has roughly 1800 times the volume of water. And also keep the exhaust gasses cooler. Usually water is mixed with methanol to keep it from freezing. This methanol is also additional fuel to burn as part of the combustion process.
Bryce
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how about propane injection? or nitrous oxide ?
 
BIGREDGOAT said:
I will try my best, and all my answers will be bold and underlined beneath each question.
Click to expand...

I concur with bigredgoat. a turbo is just an exhaust driven compressor that compresses the intake air to get better combustion of fuel. if the engine is already getting all of the fuel burnt then a turbo isn't going to help or hurt that much. but when you turn the fuel up that changes things much. the trick is to not lug the engine.
I know these questions are kinda broad. I just think myself and others reading this thread without any personal knowledge or experience might benefit from a broader discussion.
 
6mmrem said:
I am by no means an expert mechanic, my knowledge is very limited, farmer/carpenter. We have a staffed mechanic. He's been phoning with dealership s around here and it seems to happen on rtv's without turbos. The kubota distribution center for Canada has 18 motors in stock.
If the turbo was indeed at fault, why did it take 3.5 years to burn a hole? Our, mechanic isn't too keen on reinstalling the the turbo with the new motor.
If the turbo gets installed a boost gauge and pyrometer are definitely in order.
Roughly $5280 CAN for a new motor
Click to expand...

I was just thinking"and that can be dangerous". we keep picking on the turbo alone but that is only one aspect of the failure. I just noted the OP is from Manitoba,so winterized fuel is probably a factor. could it be that the fuel could be blended with kerosene,unleaded gasoline or something else? just thinking!:pat:
 
Why don't you replace the motor with the 1105-t? This is the exact motor made and assembled with a turbo from Kubota. There are several for sale on Ebay. I believe they have an upgraded piston for the added pressure of the turbo. They are only $1700 and are ready to go with a turbo. They are the exact block so it would be a direct bolt in. The turbo set up wont clear the RTV bed so you would have to change the manifold to your old one would be the only difference. http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-KUBOTA...738781?hash=item1c5e926d1d:g:juAAAOSwxN5WalE~
 
After all of this discussion, how many of you want to run out and buy a Turbo Kit???
I was considering it but am definitely having second thoughts.

I also remembered something... In 1963 when the Corvair Spyder was introduced with a Turbo, my brother-in-law bought one. His father had a heart attack and sister and hubby were living in Wash. DC at the time. 5 hour drive back then.

The Spyder made it 1/2 way before burning a hole through a piston.
I just remembered that, was pretty young back then...

That thing ran like Stink but just didn't stay together....
 
6mmrem said:
I am by no means an expert mechanic, my knowledge is very limited, farmer/carpenter. We have a staffed mechanic. He's been phoning with dealership s around here and it seems to happen on rtv's without turbos. The kubota distribution center for Canada has 18 motors in stock.
If the turbo was indeed at fault, why did it take 3.5 years to burn a hole? Our, mechanic isn't too keen on reinstalling the the turbo with the new motor.
If the turbo gets installed a boost gauge and pyrometer are definitely in order.
Roughly $5280 CAN for a new
i understand what you mean by the whole why did it take so long, but it just started heating and weakening the piston...

shinnery said:
Another option is water injection into the intake manafold. It will cool the intake air some and give more power when it flashes to steam in the cylinders, the additional power comes from the fact that steam has roughly 1800 times the volume of water. And also keep the exhaust gasses cooler. Usually water is mixed with methanol to keep it from freezing. This methanol is also additional fuel to burn as part of the combustion process.
Bryce
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that's an idea. I disagree with it because thats something else for me to remember to keep up with. Haha. I have heard of great success with water/meth injection. I have never used it personally though. If always considered it a bandaid. There are other ways like a more efficient turbo, better intake, less restrictive piping going from filter to turbo, turbo to intake manifold. Also you can intercool it and that will help alot

aurthuritis said:
how about propane injection? or nitrous oxide ?
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that will all create a lot of heat, and usually will have negative side effects. Don't get me wrong, it will make a lot of power, but I think it's not very healthy for our little engines.

aurthuritis said:
I concur with bigredgoat. a turbo is just an exhaust driven compressor that compresses the intake air to get better combustion of fuel. if the engine is already getting all of the fuel burnt then a turbo isn't going to help or hurt that much. but when you turn the fuel up that changes things much. the trick is to not lug the engine.
I know these questions are kinda broad. I just think myself and others reading this thread without any personal knowledge or experience might benefit from a broader discussion.
Click to expand...

actually, turbocharging a N/A (naturally aspirated) engine has some advantages... I did that to 91 Ford that started life as a N/A and before I turned it up,with just stock fuel settings, it made a world of difference. It would take as long to rev the engine under load, it wouldn't bog much and generally ran a lot better....


aurthuritis said:
I was just thinking"and that can be dangerous". we keep picking on the turbo alone but that is only one aspect of the failure. I just noted the OP is from Manitoba,so winterized fuel is probably a factor. could it be that the fuel could be blended with kerosene,unleaded gasoline or something else? just thinking!:pat:
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well it's not really the turbo's fault. It's the excessive heat that is caused buy more fuel than the engine can burn in a cool manner. And yes the fuel being winterblend could play a .major factor in it...
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Alfred 567 said:
After all of this discussion, how many of you want to run out and buy a Turbo Kit???
I was considering it but am definitely having second thoughts.

I also remembered something... In 1963 when the Corvair Spyder was introduced with a Turbo, my brother-in-law bought one. His father had a heart attack and sister and hubby were living in Wash. DC at the time. 5 hour drive back then.

The Spyder made it 1/2 way before burning a hole through a piston.
I just remembered that, was pretty young back then...

That thing ran like Stink but just didn't stay together....
Click to expand...

Pick me coach pick me. Lol. The only thing I a worried at is head gasket. But if you don't turn it up hott then it shouldn't be a problem... It all had to do with the fact of how much the I/P was turned up...
 
You all have valid concerns/ideas I'm sure. I do believe that these little 3 cylinder engines need some modifications to them to insure proper performance and also proper protection for tne engine when installing a turbo that the engine was not designed to have. That's my scoop. Thanks.
 
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