RTV900W6-H

ovrszd

Well-known member
Recently purchased this unit used with 186 hours on it. I believe it to be a 2006 model.

What's up with the difficult shifts??? Stop on an incline and can't get it out of gear without using the "pull knob" on the dash. Is that normal??

Does the modification to the valving in the HST fix this problem?? I'm talking about the aftermarket valve that takes away the sudden stops when letting off the go pedal.

Thanks for any tips. :)
 
Welcome to a great forum.
I have an '08 and have similar problems. Make sure you are using the brake in between shifts and don't be in a hurry and don't force things. I find myself counting to 3 after pressing on the brake pedal to shift or change direction. That allows the pressure to bleed off. It has helped me a lot.
If shifter doesn't want to come out easy, I'll also use the dash knob. If it really sticks don't hesitate to just shut it off to relieve pressure.
If it doesn't want to go into gear a slight bump of the throttle usually helps.
Shifting is a definite downside to the RTV's, but your rig is new (by hours) and should improve with more hours.
Your rig may need some trans. linkage adjustments, if the above doesn't help you.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Others will offer advice.

I have no advice on adding a coast valve but hopefully others will chime in pertaining to it. If you have a lot of hills you may want to think twice on adding one.
 
Yeah I'm in steep timber 90% of the time.

Curious to hear from anyone who's added the valving.

Thanks for the reply. Thought maybe I was a Dork and didn't know how to overcome the shift thing. :)
 
Welcome aboard..... Lots of folks will answer up for sure.... but....... this site has one of the best search functions on the internet. It goes WAY back to the beginning. Anyway, lots of topics about hard shifting, pressure relief valve, and on and on......WELCOME ABOARD.... hang on for the ride... God bless....Dennis
 
once you learn the machine it isnt an issue.I always select a gear before the climb.When you learn the machine its all 2nd nature on using what gear for what.Remember its hydrostatic so there will always be some pressure on the pump and to relieve the pressure you either pull the knob or in my case on the 2004 turn off the key then restart but i havnt had to do that in a long while since learning the ins and outs of the transmission.
 
I have the coast valve on my 2008 1100cw and i love it. i don't live in an area with steep inclines but my machine was acting just as yours no matter what the incline was. after the install the machine now comes to a gentle stop and the shifting has improved dramatically. i used the one on ebay from the original manufacture.
 
once you learn the machine it isnt an issue.I always select a gear before the climb.When you learn the machine its all 2nd nature on using what gear for what.Remember its hydrostatic so there will always be some pressure on the pump and to relieve the pressure you either pull the knob or in my case on the 2004 turn off the key then restart but i havnt had to do that in a long while since learning the ins and outs of the transmission.

As I've said, I'm in steep timber a lot.

Selecting the proper gear prior to trying to climb something isn't the issue.

So let's say I am on an incline and I decide to stop forward movement and shift to reverse?? Now what??

Shutting off the engine and restarting seems a bit overboard to get the vehicle to allow a shift. Pulling on a knob is bad enough.

I'm brainstorming a way to associate the knob pulling with brake application or something weird like that. I'll work on those thoughts for awhile and post any progress..... :)
 
I have the coast valve on my 2008 1100cw and i love it. i don't live in an area with steep inclines but my machine was acting just as yours no matter what the incline was. after the install the machine now comes to a gentle stop and the shifting has improved dramatically. i used the one on ebay from the original manufacture.

Yep, I think this is something I'll add.

I don't need the vehicle to hold me back when going downhill. That's what the brake pedal is for.

Thanks for the input. :)
 
even with the coast valve you won't need your brakes much. also check to see if the unloader valve is adjusted to work when you depress the brake. it should work just like pulling the button on the dash. i still need mine just a little sometimes. I think the SUDT2 also makes them shift a little easier when the oil is cold.



Yep, I think this is something I'll add.

I don't need the vehicle to hold me back when going downhill. That's what the brake pedal is for.

Thanks for the input. :)
 
I believe that on the newer machines the dash knob pressure relief is incorporated in pressing the brake pedal.
I would like to see a kit for refitting the older machines.
 
I believe that on the newer machines the dash knob pressure relief is incorporated in pressing the brake pedal.
I would like to see a kit for refitting the older machines.

on my 2008 model 1100 the brake is connected to the pressure relief valve and the knob was an added option. i found it is important to make sure the brake is adjusted to release the pressure. mine was not but the knob was. i had great difficulty in shifting the unit until i added the coast valve and adjusted the brake link that relieves the pressure
 
on my 2008 model 1100 the brake is connected to the pressure relief valve and the knob was an added option. i found it is important to make sure the brake is adjusted to release the pressure. mine was not but the knob was. i had great difficulty in shifting the unit until i added the coast valve and adjusted the brake link that relieves the pressure

I checked mine and it does have a link that is supposed to operate the release valve. Like you said the dash knob operates the valve better than the brake linkage. Can you give us more info on adjusting the link or do you just start shortening it a 1/4 turn at a time?

I lubed all points in that area but on an incline and pushing hard on the brake I still had to use the dash knob to shift.

Thanks,
JEFF

I did a search but didn't come up with anything.
 
the master cylinder is different from machine to machine and the touch of each operator is different to. what i did was to test drive the RTV and get a feel for the pressure it takes to stop the machine and then adjust the relief valve to be about 1/2 inch more travel on the peddle to completely engage the valve. that way during normal driving and braking i don't engage the relief valve but when i decide to shift i can just push extra hard on the peddle and engage the relief valve.
 
After some further reading of threads I've discovered mine is actually a 2008 model. Still too old for the brake pedal link to the hst.

I'm wondering if it can be added?

For now I'm using the patience method as suggested. That works about 70% of the time.

I'm also gonna try adjusting everything when I get time.
 
A couple thoughts.
Mine is old (before they had the pressure relief knob). When I had this issue, applying the emergency brake and waiting a few seconds always made it where I could then shift. Never had to turn it off.

If your VIN is 17 characters, the 10th character is the year. If it's 16 characters, the 9th character is the year.

With only 187 hours, it's not even broken in yet. Once you put some hours on it, it should loosen up and shift a lot easier. Many (most?) of us had this problem when new, especially with the earlier models. Putting some hours on it helped quite a bit.
 
Just as BC says, it's not even broken in yet.... For me, from reverse to another gear while I am pointed up or down on one of my steep hills with trees/timber, can be a bit of a problem. It was much worse while the machine was new and is still there perhaps..... but.....I think I have learned to live with it, drive it, and love it for it's strength, durability, dependability, and many other ities......

Often, if I can't get it in gear, I shift into another and perhaps run through going into several gears. Turning off and restarting is a totally rare thing for me...... What works best.......WHAT WORKS BEST.... for me is perhaps keeping gentle pressure on the gear shift lever and blipping the throttle e.g...barely.......
I don't know, perhaps as others have done, it just kinda goes away as we drive it, get used to it, and it breaks in..........

Lol...... have you tried going into and out of 4WD???........now for me, that is the pain in the butt trick maneuver......... God bless.......Dennis
 
Mine is also an '08 and after reading post by aurthuritis I found that mine has the link to the pressure relief. I will probably experiment with shortening the link to try and improve shifting. The pressure relief is on drivers side right/rear. It is tied in with the brake linkage with a double ended threaded rod, and mine moves the pressure relief when pushing brake but apparently not far enough. If anyone has any info on adjusting this link please chime in.
 
Mine is also an '08 and after reading post by aurthuritis I found that mine has the link to the pressure relief. I will probably experiment with shortening the link to try and improve shifting. The pressure relief is on drivers side right/rear. It is tied in with the brake linkage with a double ended threaded rod, and mine moves the pressure relief when pushing brake but apparently not far enough. If anyone has any info on adjusting this link please chime in.

to me it is more of a timing issue. what i did was to adjust the relief valve so that during light braking it would not engage and it takes a heavy foot to engage the relief valve. i didn't want my tranny disengaging in a light brake situation but i also didn't want to just have to cram the peddle down either just to release the pressure.
 
to me it is more of a timing issue. what i did was to adjust the relief valve so that during light braking it would not engage and it takes a heavy foot to engage the relief valve. i didn't want my tranny disengaging in a light brake situation but i also didn't want to just have to cram the peddle down either just to release the pressure.

Good stuff right there.

I'll check mine out and hope it has the link. Then I'll try adjusting it as you explained.
 
I purchased a Work Shop Manual for the RTV900. In mechanical terms, with drawings, it describes the processes involved when using the HST. It also describes the process of adjusting everything for proper operation including release of HST pressure when stopping.

Sadly, the manual is 3.23 mb in size. It exceeds this site's limit of 2.77 mb.

If someone knows a way to download this manual and post it as a sticky I'm willing to share???

Also, if someone wants a copy I can try to email it to you. PM me.
 
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