Turbo for X900?

Popo1945 said:
I bought a turbo from Turbo Kits. It came with detailed instruction for the install, fuel enrichment & trans adjustment. I haven't done the install yet - too cold (I don't have a heated workshop yet). I'll keep you posted on how the install goes.
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Isn’t that the kit from Southwest Ag Company? They are a Kubota Dealer and developed a turbo kit for the rtv. When my warranty is out I think I will give them a try. If I remember correctly they told me no inter cooler needed for 8lbs boost. Comes with directions on fuel and transmission adjustments
 
The turbo kit from turbokits.com is the most complete kit out there except they don't make one for the X900. Have spoken to them numerous times about this matter but cannot change there minds. They feel there isn't a market out there for this model. Therefore fellow X900 owners , start calling them!!!!
 
Well next week my friends I’m hauling the X900 to Connecticut for the turbo installation. They plan to adapt and modify the X1100 kit to fit my particular unit. This will either be a simple or difficult task. They are very nice and patient people !! I’ve literally bugged the hell out of them , they finally told me haul that thing up there , 7 1/2 hour trip . Wife told me I’m crazy !!! Turbokits.com??
 
What about a series of tests for a baseline? Like how long to drag race down your driveway before and after. Or climb your big hill before and after.
Just a thought... anyway you look at it more power = more fun!
 
The only reason I’m adding a turbo is for towing , have a 2000lb boat. Need the Kubota to haul it down a river road and launch it from a boat ramp. Guys from Turbokits.com told me it won’t know it’s even behind it ����
 
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Would still be handy to do some comparison runs using various tasks, one could be pulling the boat. If you don't, you'll wish you had!!! :)
 
EGT = Exhaust Gas Temperature.

At a certain temperature your piston tops will begin to melt. This will destroy your engine. The pyrometer allows you to monitor this situation. In a long high rpm heavy load situation the pyrometer will alert you to possible damage and you'll be able to relax the engine a bit to lessen the temperature or at least keep it below a destructive level.

Old diesels all had pyrometers if they used turbos. Over the road truck drivers understood the pyrometer and watched it diligently. Especially in hilly terrain. Or when trying to prove to the next truck that you were most powerful and fastest. :)
 
ovrszd said:
EGT = Exhaust Gas Temperature.

At a certain temperature your piston tops will begin to melt. This will destroy your engine. The pyrometer allows you to monitor this situation. In a long high rpm heavy load situation the pyrometer will alert you to possible damage and you'll be able to relax the engine a bit to lessen the temperature or at least keep it below a destructive level.

Old diesels all had pyrometers if they used turbos. Over the road truck drivers understood the pyrometer and watched it diligently. Especially in hilly terrain. Or when trying to prove to the next truck that you were most powerful and fastest. :)
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A Very Good answer. :a1:
 
wheeler said:
Please explain the importance of EGT.:thewave:
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What you ask would take a big book trying to explain, instead talk with any experienced diesel wrench turner, farmer or truck driver that does their own repairs.

They will try and explain to you that if the fuel is to lean and your exhaust temp goes through the roof you will burn a hole in one or more pistons.

If the temp starts to go up, all you have to do is stop working the engine quite so hard which is just a temporary work around until someone that knows what they are doing adjusts how much fuel your engine is getting☺☺

Keep us posted, I'm one of those that has researched installing a turbo but still undecided☺
 
Lee1935 said:
What you ask would take a big book trying to explain, instead talk with any experienced diesel wrench turner, farmer or truck driver that does their own repairs.

They will try and explain to you that if the fuel is to lean and your exhaust temp goes through the roof you will burn a hole in one or more pistons.

If the temp starts to go up, all you have to do is stop working the engine quite so hard which is just a temporary work around until someone that knows what they are doing adjusts how much fuel your engine is getting☺☺

Keep us posted, I'm one of those that has researched installing a turbo but still undecided☺
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:tiphat:Thank you gentlemen for the answers. We have a 2011 1100C, naturally aspirated. And 2017 X1100 with Swag turbo. Both with tracks and pulling snow grooming drags. Yes, the 2017 does pull the hills better and slightly faster on the flats. I am not sure how much can be attributed to the turbo, or to the different hydro/transmission combination.
 
This is Déjà vu, use to enjoy a Harley forum , until everyone over analyze. I’m just getting a turbo with a little boost , nothing radical. This will give me a little extra towing power. Purchased last year a Duramax with the new L5P motor , suppose have a considerable more power than the older model but not worried about testing the difference . Will keep you posted when project is done , seat of pants comparison will tell all!!!
 
Bulldog53 said:
This is Déjà vu, use to enjoy a Harley forum , until everyone over analyze. I’m just getting a turbo with a little boost , nothing radical. This will give me a little extra towing power. Purchased last year a Duramax with the new L5P motor , suppose have a considerable more power than the older model but not worried about testing the difference . Will keep you posted when project is done , seat of pants comparison will tell all!!!
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Just curious not trying to run you off!
 
Alaskanassasin said:
From one alaskan to a another... Compression ratio? can you change compression ratio with out major surgery?
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Doing some searching around recently I found this site: http://www.mag-motoren.com/Einstelldatenbl%E4tter/Einstelldaten%20Kubota%2005-Serie%20(EPA%20Tier%202).pdf

There are numerous differences, as stated above, in naturally aspirated, and turbo charged engines. If you check out the link, and scroll down to the valve timing section, you will notice there's quite a difference in the timing of the D1105-E2B engine, and the D1105-T-E2B (factory turbo). The different cam shaft in these two engines, would effect the compression ratios...lowering that of the turbo model.

I know the specs above pertain to the Tier 2 engines.....but would imagine they carry forward to the more recent models.
 
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