u-joints need replacing

blinko

New member
Hi, I have a 2007 900rtv with 1000hrs on it and the right rear lower u-joint went out today, whats the thoughts on that. Is that normal? The dealer said to replace the shafts, it would cost about the same as replacing the u-joints with all the labor. Should I do all the rear u-joints while it is in the shop. The dealer thought about $125 for parts and labor per u-joint, that sound right?

Any thought would be great.

Blinko
 
Blinko,

I haven't had to do this myself so I don't have any first-hand experience to offer.

If you do a search on the forum, you'll probably find lots of background info until others post here.
 
rear axle

be prepared to spend 300-400 dollars mine had 400 hours and had to replace all four joints 4 bearings 5 seals and one axle because i fked one up getting it out. go a head and drop the rear spring and axle housing i learned the hard way its the only way to get every thing apart. good luck let me know if you need any help also get your u joints off ebay there good quality and half price of the dealer
 
U joints

Hi Blinko, Sorry to hear of your problem. Yea, I had the rear ujoints go out a few years ago- maybe 2 years ago. Like Bczoom said, do the search feature on this site and see if some of the posts I and others made on ccr come up. I'm not sure if they transferred over but I think so. The rear bumper and springs , cargo bed must be taken off to do the job right. Since this has to be done for 1 side anyway , then side 2 should be just the parts and labor to install . Go ahead and have the bearings checked and seals too. I replaced everything while it was torn down. There are like 4 bolts that bolt the assembly to the transmission on each side . These are taken loose and the shafts removed if necessary. If the whole assembly needs replacing. My shafts were ok so I kept them and just replaced the joints,bearings seals. Did your dealer say if the replacements had grease fittings? just curious. I would confirm that price because my silly dealer thought that he could wrangle close to $900 or so out of me. His plan was to charge me 2 times for taking the bumper etc off. Once for each side. Needless to say, I said no and won't buy even an oil filter from him now. I had- with labor- about $450 with ujoints,seals, and bearings for both sides. Thanks to Two Guns for his help keeping me straight on with what was going on with that..I believe I had less that 2000 hrs on mine back then but not sure.. Have 3329 now and try to keep the ujoint areas clean to help them last longer. And it very well may be cheaper to buy the whole assembly and insert it, as dealer said. I would have thought the shafts and ujoints assemblies alone would have cost what he quoted you. Is this a kubota dealer ? If not, know that some transmission fluid will be lost when the shaft is removed so the person should replace it with UDT or SUDT. My guy did not and I just happened to check behind him and caught it low. Good Luck with this. Just ask if you have any questions. Bordercollie
 
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Thanks everyone I will keep you posted on the out come. Yes the new shafts come with grease fittings. I will be taking it to the Kubota dealer where I purchased it from, they have been very helpful in the past.

Blinko.
 
Kerry, I use my RTV hard on the farm. I pull skidded mineral troughs that weigh like 500 lbs+ thru thick grass etc and that probably contributed to my wear.. You can jack the rear end up and by rotating the wheels by hand see if you have much wear. Just be looking at the joint while you rotate the wheel and see if there is too much free play. Mine started clicking when I was pulling one of the troughs and the joint edges were almost touching when I looked at them .I have over 3329 hrs and have had the rears replaced just once....I always wondered if using the larger 27" tire contributed to their wear? Anyway , I am back down to 26" ers. Bordercollie
 
Bodercollie,
Thanks for the info. I will check mine. I don't think I have any problems. Mine still sounds solid.
 
Good that the new shafts comes with grease fittings.
Now, when you go back with the new U=Joints . GREASE WITH A TACKY GREASE.
There are many on the market. The reason many bearing / u - Joints fail in for reason
the grease gets " beat " out of the area it needs be. We started years ago using the
tackey grease from several manufactures. Lucas Red & Tackey, AMSOIL Synthetic
Polymeric # 2 grease, Red Tek, just to name a few. Since we have been using these types of
tackey grease, we don't have ANY bearing troubles at all. We use this in disc in the fields and they take the biggest beating one could put on something. Out ground down here is rough on all equipement.
There is a test one needs to see, I'm inserting a video from u tube to show you what I mean.
This will give you a better idea why one needs the tackey in his RTV ....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqvq5IHjHTg

............. two guns
 
Great video demo, Two Guns

Two Guns, Thanks for posting that info. That video is great -seeing is believing. I will have to get some of that grease for equipment around here.. Bordercollie
 
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