Hi folks, I have a water leak in my RTV 900. Seat coover stripped and noticed it was coming from water pump area. Removed water pump and noticed it was leaking from a hole in the casing. It was dirty when I took it off so thought it had cracked or corroded but as I cleaned the pump I noticed the hole was engineered....is it missing a frost plug or is it a tell tale that the bearing has gone? Seems strange having a hole from production? Photos attached, any advice would be appreciated. Is there anything else you recommend servicing or replacing while water pump and radiator is out? Many thanks, Dave
Water pump leaking
- Thread starter Dvaepat4
- Start date
Back in the 80's when I worked at a service station we saw this quite frequently. The seal is bad and it needs to be replaced, we always replaced the water pump instead of rebuilding it. Recently while working on my x series 1100 I had to remove the water pump. I called my dealer and was going to replace the pump since it was about 8 years old. The owner told me he has never in 30 years replaced a pump on any Kubota engine. So I followed his advice and didn't replace the pump. My guess, looking at yours, is the engine spent some time without coolant in the engine. modern day antifreeze has additives that keep the seals from failing.
That would make sense...I've been meaning to replace the radiator as I'm not getting a good seal at the neck/radiator cap....during summer months I was topping up with water but as we came into winter I did put in antifreeze. I'll replace the pump for piece of mind and also replace the radiator at the same time. Thanks
And be sure you add antifreeze as soon as you replace them. The picture of the impeller will give you the best reason to add antifreeze and not plain water.
Thanks, should I flush the system with anything in particular or just drain and renew with antifreeze?
Drain and renew. We used to recommend "Bars radiator leak" as an annual treatment to keep the system clean. I haven't seen that product in ages. I know there are lots of different types of antifreeze, but on my Kubotas I use yellow Prestone 50/50 mix.
On second thought a flush would be good. Also might consider using this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R74I5U...g&sr=1-1-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124
And if you dilute your own antifreeze ,consider using distilled water. Plain tap water can have all sorts of mineral deposits in it which are bad over time.
I must admit that I did use distilled water to fill the system at service but with a regular leak ended up topping up on occasion with tap water...Will make sure I refill using distilled and antifreeze. When putting back together do pulleys need to be aligned? I noticed markings on the lower pulley, but it's just a water pump and alternator belt, not a timing belt? Thanks
The pullies do not need to be aligned.
For me it has been a crap shoot with more "aftermarket" parts not working. Lately I stick with Kubota Parts as my first option because when the "aftermarket" doesn't work then I spend the money and buy the Kubota parts. Basically throwing money away thinking I am going to save money. I also used to buy all my parts from Messicks or Colemans. The shipping gets very expensive, now I have a great relationship with my local dealer plus the shipping is free, except for the odd times I need it sooner and still the expedited shipping to my dealer is cheaper than buying it online.
The pulleys do not need to be “timed”…but they should be aligned.
Aligned on the vertical plane, which I have little influence, or each pulley set as a specific position before the belt is installed? ThanksThe pulleys do not need to be “timed”…but they should be aligned.
I think the wink is the main point. As far as my experience goes there is no adjustment on the alignment of the pullies.
Exactly! I replaced a water pump with the identical part number on a John Deere….with another OEM pump…and the pulley which came on the new pump was out-of-aligment …and could NOT be aligned for the V-belt to stay straight. I had to press-OFF the new pulley…and press ON the pulley from the failed pump…. to complete the installation.
I wonder if you somehow got the wrong part number.
Nope…got the exact OEM replacement part. I believe the difference might be that this is a John Deere “generic” or common engine supplied to various mfr’s of construction-equipment…who may have additional accessories installed by the equpt-OEM. This was a JD 4239D engine in a 1987 Ferguson 5-8B Asphalt compactor-roller (I use it to smooth/compact my turf runway to keep hogs disinterested in it…click on the pic to view it.)
The groove of the supplied pulley was 1” closer to the engine-block than the original (failed) unit. Pressing the supplied pulley further out on the pump-shaft so-reduced the amount of “purchase” the pulley had on the pump-shaft that it concerned me. (It was a different pulley-casting hub-length.) Pressing the supplied pulley off…..and pressing the old pulley ON… completely solved the issue.
The genuine radiator was £450 or aftermarket £80......! Ive gone for the genuine pump based on guidance re alignment and aftermarket radiator as its relatively easy to get to and swap out if it fails. Re the pump, should I use gasket paste on the gasket or just the gasket on its own? Thanks