Winch Mounting Plate

[moosejaw]

Finally finished my winch mounting plate. This design uses the three 12mm threaded holes on the bumper and two under the winch. No welding required to the bumper, it just slides into position and then install the bolts.

Need to hook up the electrical and mount the remote plug and switch. Any ideas on the best place to mount the remote plug and switch?

Moose

 

[bczoom]

Looks great!

Since you have a Howse fairlead, do I assume you plan on using Amsteel rope instead of cable?

 

[bczoom]

I don't know what all you have to mount, but here's where I put my winch "stuff"

The last one (under the hood) shows the antenna. If you have wireless and an antenna, try it a few places before you mount it.

Actually, that antenna is out of use right now as I went with a much better antenna (with a few hundred feet range).

 

[moosejaw]

Thanks for the ideas. Yes I am using the Amsteel rope instead of cable. I used to have a cable driven CAT scraper and am tired of wire rope in the hands. I am interested to see how this synthetic rope works out.

 

[vintovka]

Nice neat install! Looks like it will serve you well. Tell us how the wireless remote works out.

 

[bczoom]

You'll like the rope. I don't use my winch a lot but the rope is very nice.

 

[Doc]

Thanks for the ideas. Yes I am using the Amsteel rope instead of cable. I used to have a cable driven CAT scraper and am tired of wire rope in the hands. I am interested to see how this synthetic rope works out.

Nice job. Looks good on there.

What is the strength comparison between the amsteel rope and cable? Like synthetic oil I suspect the amsteel rope costs a good bit more.

 

[bczoom]

Without looking it up, they're about the same as I recall. It's been awhile but (again, without looking it up), the Amsteel for that size application was about $1 per foot.

 

[Doc]

Thanks BC!

 

[Heatwave]

About those two bolts on the bottom of the mounting plate: If your RTV is made like mine, those bolts make up to nuts that are welded to the backside of the frame. If you haven't already so done, I respectfully suggest that you use bolts that are long enough to thread entirely through the weldnuts and then accept a second nut, just for added strength.

I have a 5500 lb. Ramsey winch. The bolts I used to attach the mounting plate threaded cleanly through the weldnuts, but barely extended beyond the outermost threads ... less than maybe 1/16 in. During a pull using a snatch block, with the cable hook attached to a hole in the bottom of the winch mounting plate, the mounting plate bolts stripped themselves out of the weldnuts. The weldnuts weren't stripped ... just the bolts. Longer bolts and a second pair of nuts ... a good combination in any situation ... remedied that problem.

 

[moosejaw]

I was in the process of purchasing new longer bolts but I live in an area that only has Wally World. There is so much beef in this thing (1/2" material) that the clevis is on that I think you could hang the RTV from a tree and it would not fail. You can figure that each bolt is about 1/2 inch in diameter. The shear strength of the top three bolts is likely 1/2(tensile strength of bolt)(Bolt cross sectional Area), or about 3,927 pounds per bolt and having three the top three attach points should support 11,780 pounds without yield. the two front bolts if fully engaged would be subject to pure tension in this case or the cross sectional area of the bolt times the tensile strength or .196in^2 times an estimated tensile strength of each bolts as 40KSI or about 7854 pounds for each bolt thats 15700 pounds for the two from bolts. The mounting plate should not yield if the load is 27,488 pounds. RTV only weighs 2000 lbs??? I guess you could swing the dam thing from a tree!!!
Sorry guys I got carried away with things, must be the engineer in me.
You are absolute right the backing nuts on the front not designed to support a bolt not fully engaged. The idea of double nutting (sounds wrong) is a good idea.