That's a shame....if you did not have the XT model you could buy the whole side for 200.00. I bet there's is not greasable u joints though. How many hours on your machine now that they need to be replaced?
New Rear U Joints Needed-- Again
- Thread starter bordercollie
- Start date
That's a shame....if you did not have the XT model you could buy the whole side for 200.00. I bet there's is not greasable u joints though. How many hours on your machine now that they need to be replaced?
I have about 2150 hours on this 2011 model . Yea, It made me sick to order those expensive parts... I also heard a wamp wamp noise like when a drive shaft is going out... I sure hope that it was just a chunk of dried mud I heard or the rear joint , and not the new design drive shaft... It has boots on the joints so I can't see them -also I can't feel any slack so maybe there isn't a problem there..... sure hope not..
The aftermarket assembly is something to keep my eye on.
The aftermarket assembly is something to keep my eye on.
Mark.Sibole
Well-known member
I think the sealed u joints are better.Once you grease one of the greasable joints and break the seal it seems they dont last no where as long.The oem joints on may cars seem to last forever because they are sealed so damn good.
a common problem with grease able U joints is that some people will use a grease that doesn't have the anti corrosion or high pressure properties needed for service. i have found that if i use a grease approved for front wheel bearings that my U joints last longer. Collie what is different about the assembly from your old model?
I'm not sure of the difference between my 2011 900xt and the 05 I had but for the sealed vs unsealed. I do know there is a difference in the transmission performance itself. so I wasn't sure if the assemblies themselves were somewhat different on my 2011 xt model too.Possilby the shafts etc.. I would have liked to seen the two side by side. The description on the aftermarket though says they will not fit an xt.. so my decision is based on that.
Your '05 U-joints went the first time at around the same number of hours as I recall, and at about twice that the second time. I'm closing in on that number of hours. That's why I've been so interested in what's involved. I just know it's going to happen this summer or next.
I'll be interested to know what you learn about the bearings and seals on this new model compared to what you found on your '05.
Hmmm, if I remember right, your '05 had about 4,000 hours on it when you took it apart the first time, yourself - as I recall you had a dealer do it the first time. The dealer might not have replaced the seals and greased that outer bearing housing when he did the joints.
I tend to replace every disturbed seal and grease everything that needs it when I take something apart that has seals. I also tend to replace circlips.
Fitch
Hi Fitch, The local dealer never touched it. He wanted to rip me off at almost double the "should be" price .He didn't know that I had a copy of the rate manual.. provided by a special friend here. I can say it is true "what goes around comes around". That is why I didn't buy the 2011 RTV from him... I did check with him for a price though on both accounts- just for the heck of it. I drove 45 miles on Two Guns advice to buy the 2011 from a dealer he knew and saved $500. The local dealer is 15 miles. Ahh, back to the question.. haha..
On the "05, I had a friend of a friend on the ujoints.Them mostly.. The last time was all by myself. I replaced everything in there-seals, bearings etc.. If I remember right, the seals that I replaced had a special lip specific to Kubota but can't remember for sure..
I haven't gotten the ujoint order yet but will wait on breaking it down till after our bull sale in a week.. too much to do in prep for that. I did use the bota today and worked on fences.. much to be done.. Also bad need to go to Ark and do some work on the old home place.. now mine and too very quiet....Keeping my eye on everything and being cautious. .. collie
On the "05, I had a friend of a friend on the ujoints.Them mostly.. The last time was all by myself. I replaced everything in there-seals, bearings etc.. If I remember right, the seals that I replaced had a special lip specific to Kubota but can't remember for sure..
I haven't gotten the ujoint order yet but will wait on breaking it down till after our bull sale in a week.. too much to do in prep for that. I did use the bota today and worked on fences.. much to be done.. Also bad need to go to Ark and do some work on the old home place.. now mine and too very quiet....Keeping my eye on everything and being cautious. .. collie
Yeah, don't get me started on service departments. The local John Deere dealer is excellent. New Holland was ... pretty good ... but is now under new management. Wait and see.
Kubota ripped me off once. Shame on them. Nothing has been to their shop since. Great parts department though. So I buy my parts there.
They recently moved so they are less than two miles from me.
Fitch
I may have overlooked it, but... as of this date, I did not see where they used a sealant when replacing the inner shaft assembly to the transmission. I use a sealant...
collie
Collie,
was that a plastic or other gasket material I saw figure 8A? Looks like plastic.
I agree a little sealant on that joint would be a good thing.
Great instructions; http://www.superatv.com/instructions/IN-RA-8-23-R.pdf This pdf should be in a Drive Shaft Replacement post as a must read for shaft replacement.
Especially liked how they tied up the rear end, without physically removing it, to get at the shafts. Looks like a real time saver.
was that a plastic or other gasket material I saw figure 8A? Looks like plastic.
I agree a little sealant on that joint would be a good thing.
Great instructions; http://www.superatv.com/instructions/IN-RA-8-23-R.pdf This pdf should be in a Drive Shaft Replacement post as a must read for shaft replacement.
Especially liked how they tied up the rear end, without physically removing it, to get at the shafts. Looks like a real time saver.
Hi Pepr, I put a permatex sealant suitable for transmissions on the surface where the 3 bolts mount the assembly to the transmission. ( There is no gasket or o ring there-like is on the front differential) and mine had it applied before.
Hi Spudhauler, I don't see a picture on post 8.. I am not sure which one you are speaking of ? Is it the one where I am putting the bearing in? If so, that is a piece of pvc.
I got the expensive little package yesterday. 4 little u joints and seals. I will try it next week if all goes well with my other work. The machine is still working fine and the slack hasn't changed for the worse. but now I am ready but for time. collie
Hi Spudhauler, I don't see a picture on post 8.. I am not sure which one you are speaking of ? Is it the one where I am putting the bearing in? If so, that is a piece of pvc.
I got the expensive little package yesterday. 4 little u joints and seals. I will try it next week if all goes well with my other work. The machine is still working fine and the slack hasn't changed for the worse. but now I am ready but for time. collie
Mark.Sibole
Well-known member
REgular ATV sealant works fine.There isnt a gasket where the axle bolts to the trans.Make sure you remove old sealant on the trans and aply a thin film of sealant on the trans and evenly tighten the bolts.
Collie,
I was referring to Figure 8A in this doc; http://www.superatv.com/instructions/IN-RA-8-23-R.pdf
But, you have answered the question. Thanks.
I was referring to Figure 8A in this doc; http://www.superatv.com/instructions/IN-RA-8-23-R.pdf
But, you have answered the question. Thanks.
Oh,brother, haha > I realized after I had left the house what you meant. I drank a great big diet coke so am better now. Gotta have my caffeine. Thank you .
collieSo the one special tool for the u-joint replacement is the tool to compress the metal bands securing the boot to the rear shafts. Seems as though somewhere I saw that the tool cost $79. Sorry, I'm not paying that. I'll make a tool before I pay that much for one that will be used maybe 3 times during the rest of my time on this earth.
Open to alternative tool. Please share your thoughts.
Open to alternative tool. Please share your thoughts.
Mark.Sibole
Well-known member
Ive done this several times and a heavy duty zip tie works just as well and can be picked up cheap at a local hardware.Ive found the big white ties that are used in HAVC duct work great.Get the ones for 3 or 4 inch pipe and youll be golden.
THey work just as well if not better and you can have a few xtras in case you have a booboo
THey work just as well if not better and you can have a few xtras in case you have a booboo
Pepr, I used the boot clamps I got from the mom and pop auto parts store here when I did the '05 .They were a metal strap... that I just used my pliers to pull it taut and squeeze it .Edit : It was a long piece- indeed like a cable tie. I used the pliers in sort of a pull it tight position then while still holding the strain on the clamp bend it over with the pliers, hold the pressure with a flat head screwdriver as it is being bent and then flatten the bent strap and use the "little ears" that can be bent down to hold the tail of the clamp. Easy as pie and cheap too. collie
collie
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This is a great link from Mark on lining up the splines. collie
http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16400
http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16400