Rtv x1120DD not moving

Why want my Rtv move

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aurthuritis said:
i would first try to remove the suction filter and fill it with oil then put it back on real fast. if that didn't work i would consider to sacrifice a filter by punching a hole in it with a center punch so that the hole was on top,and then fill the filter with oil and put a sheet metal screw in the hole to seal it. then start the engine to see if it will prime. you can always remove the screw and repeat. then if it primes you can put on a new filter. i wouldn't drill a hole but use a center punch to avoid drill cuttings. don't use a self tapping screw either for same reasons.
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I will give that a try. I am game to try anything. Before I do that can you look at my newest post?
Thanks
 
the yellow cap is the fill and dipstick for the transmission case. the oil looks to be some very high hour hydraulic or hopefully UDT oil. you did drain the transmission case and refill? through that yellow cap? correct?
 
wow that is the new oil? the inside of that case must be filthy. i guess the oil level is correct on the yellow dipstick? i guess at this point it isn't going to hurt to try more aggressively to prime. if you do get it to prime and run then you can at least get a feel for it's condition but it looks like the plates are probably worn and you won't get much performance out of it. the brass plates are relatively easy to replace and the thrust bearing. if the valve assy and pistons are worn a new hast might be cheaper. the charge pump is easy and cheap to replace.
 
aurthuritis said:
wow that is the new oil? the inside of that case must be filthy. i guess the oil level is correct on the yellow dipstick? i guess at this point it isn't going to hurt to try more aggressively to prime. if you do get it to prime and run then you can at least get a feel for it's condition but it looks like the plates are probably worn and you won't get much performance out of it. the brass plates are relatively easy to replace and the thrust bearing. if the valve assy and pistons are worn a new hast might be cheaper. the charge pump is easy and cheap to replace.
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Yes the level is correct. Thanks for all the support. I am determined to get this thing going!
 
first step is get the charge pump to pump and charge the rest of the system. the charge pump is directly behind the suction filter and can be accessed easy. there was a recent thread where a fella rebuilt his charge pump. his symptom was foaming the oil. probably a good idea to develop a plan?? do you have a wsm on your machine?
 
aurthuritis said:
first step is get the charge pump to pump and charge the rest of the system. the charge pump is directly behind the suction filter and can be accessed easy. there was a recent thread where a fella rebuilt his charge pump. his symptom was foaming the oil. probably a good idea to develop a plan?? do you have a wsm on your machine?
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I don’t not have a wsm yet
 
could be that the charge pump just needs a re seal but without charge pressure nothing else will run or lubricate. i guess you could rebuild the charge pump and then see if the valve plates are bad or just tear it down to that point and examine the plates the rotating valve blocks and pistons to see what needs replaced if anything. then you would be able to make an informed decision??? as an etimate i would price as parts the charge pump rebuild a thrust bearing and a new set of brass valve plates as a bare minimum. if i was going to tear into for inspection the plates and thrust bearing would be replaced no matter what
 
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get on messiks website to use their online exploded diagrams schematics for an idea and price those parts. you can also get a price on the rotating valve blocks just for comparison. the chances of the plates being bad are high and the valve blocks are likely ok. but if one piston is bad the whole block has to go.
 
aurthuritis said:
get on messiks website to use their online exploded diagrams schematics for an idea and price those parts. you can also get a price on the rotating valve blocks just for comparison. the chances of the plates being bad are high and the valve blocks are likely ok. but if one piston is bad the whole block has to go.
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aurthuritis said:
could be that the charge pump just needs a re seal but without charge pressure nothing else will run or lubricate. i guess you could rebuild the charge pump and then see if the valve plates are bad or just tear it down to that point and examine the plates the rotating valve blocks and pistons to see what needs replaced if anything. then you would be able to make an informed decision??? as an etimate i would price as parts the charge pump rebuild a thrust bearing and a new set of brass valve plates as a bare minimum. if i was going to tear into for inspection the plates and thrust bearing would be replaced no matter what
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I put a hole in the top of the filter, filled it full of oil. Wheels still not turning. I used a syringe to push the oil into the filter and when it was full I could here it pushing into the pump. Do I need to try and push more in while it is running?
 
Following..

I’m in the middle of the exact same issue. @Gotmyrtvmike did you say how many hours on this unit? Do you have a hydraulic dump bed and does it work? Steering? I’ll be following @aurthuritis suggestions as well. Thanks for the info guys.
 
Gotmyrtvmike said:
I put a hole in the top of the filter, filled it full of oil. Wheels still not turning. I used a syringe to push the oil into the filter and when it was full I could here it pushing into the pump. Do I need to try and push more in while it is running?
Click to expand...
bigace109 said:
Following..

I’m in the middle of the exact same issue. @Gotmyrtvmike did you say how many hours on this unit? Do you have a hydraulic dump bed and does it work? Steering? I’ll be following @aurthuritis suggestions as well. Thanks for the info guys.
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I do have a hydraulic dump bed and power steering and they are both working. I’m not sure of the hours.
 
Gotmyrtvmike said:
I put a hole in the top of the filter, filled it full of oil. Wheels still not turning. I used a syringe to push the oil into the filter and when it was full I could here it pushing into the pump. Do I need to try and push more in while it is running?
Click to expand...
i would say the charge pump needs attention. make good and sure there aren't any air leaks into the suction??? you can use compressed air into the transmission case at low pressure while blocking the vent. if there is a suction leek it should start showing as oil coming out unless it is an internal leek. if the charge pump has a bad seal it will leak internal but will cause this issue. the charge pump can be replaced or overhaul pretty simple
 
aurthuritis said:
i would say the charge pump needs attention. make good and sure there aren't any air leaks into the suction??? you can use compressed air into the transmission case at low pressure while blocking the vent. if there is a suction leek it should start showing as oil coming out unless it is an internal leek. if the charge pump has a bad seal it will leak internal but will cause this issue. the charge pump can be replaced or overhaul pretty simple
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To make sure I am tapping into the correct filter. Is the suction filter the front yellow or the white one behind it? From what I can find the white larger filter behind the yellow filter is the suction filter.
 
confirm proper filter location. rear most filter is the charge pump and suction filter. the one just below and forward is the HST filter. the fiter number for the suction filter is HHK70-14070 and is yellow sometimes black sometimes white. i don't know why they change colors so much. directly below this filter and on the charge pump housing is a hex plug with a tamper proof cap and stem sticking out. this is the charge pump pressure releif valve that takes a part in maintaining charge pressure. you can remove this valve and check it for cracks scratches chips etc. and flush the passage or even crank the engine with it removed to flush but be ready for oil flow. the valve should come out complete just don't adjust the stem.
 

in this manual page 78 it refers to the front most filter as the suction filter??? the service manual at least the one i have doesn't agree. but the number i gave you is correct for the rear most filter and it's placement so check it anyway. Kubota manuals are less than to be desired but it is all we have. the rear most filter is attached to the charge pump housing. so i guess i will refer to it as the charge filter from now on to hopefully avoid confusion. sorry also to note that i refer to the front as oriented from standing behind the machine and looking forward so the front would be nearest the front of the machine and the rear would be toward the rear of the machine.
 
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