900rtv winch mounting

As soon as I find your address Tommy, I'll mail mine to you if you still want it as a template.
 
sure i'll pm you i'll make a templete and get it back to you .that way if someone needs one we can help them out. with everyone's help we'll make this website the main goto site for info and help for rtv's. best way to stay up and running is to stay up on top so lets stay up there .i would say lets get there but i'm pretty sure we are there already.
 
I'm going to toot our horn a bit by saying we already are the premier site for RTV's.`:)
 
i would say for a rule of thumb when buying a winch take the weight of the utv and triple it then get a winch that can handle that weight and above. and never hold the winch button down always bump it a few seconds at a time or you will over heat the winch another thing is never powle always freespool it if you power out the cable all your doing if heating up the winch for no reason at all.

Good Info and right on about winch size and operation. Id only add that its wise to leave the engine running when winching. Power draw can knock down a battery very quickly.
 
I have only one thing to add to this thread: when winching, I always stand perpendicular to the winch line's direction of pull, just to be out of the line of snap-back, for obvious reasons.

I've never had a winch line part, but I've seen ships' lines part under heavy strain and I've seen cross-deck pendants--the "catch wires" on aircraft carrier flight decks--snap during carrier landing operations--"traps." Those things can be deadly.

An earlier post here referred to sitting in the RTV cab to hold the brakes during winching operations. I respectfully suggest that the cab is not an ideal place to be when the winch line is under strain. But I'm not passing judgment on anyone who prefers to sit in the cab. Just sayin'.
 
I have only one thing to add to this thread: when winching, I always stand perpendicular to the winch line's direction of pull, just to be out of the line of snap-back, for obvious reasons.

I've never had a winch line part, but I've seen ships' lines part under heavy strain and I've seen cross-deck pendants--the "catch wires" on aircraft carrier flight decks--snap during carrier landing operations--"traps." Those things can be deadly.

An earlier post here referred to sitting in the RTV cab to hold the brakes during winching operations. I respectfully suggest that the cab is not an ideal place to be when the winch line is under strain. But I'm not passing judgment on anyone who prefers to sit in the cab. Just sayin'.

inside the cab is no place to be you need to watch the cable on the winch so it spools up right. if you sit in the cab the cable will just stack to one side and crack the spool or front brace. as for holding the brake thats what they have emergency brakes for . besides stackin the cable you can also double loop it and thats even worst because then you have a birds nest and the winch is inoperatble then and your really stuck. when i winch out of a hole i will stand in front along side the winch with gloves on and help spool the line on the drum nice and neat. after i have a good bind on it i then get into the utv and put it into gear and pull up to take a bind off the cable and repeat the process.now if i have someone with me i have them work the pedal and i work the winch. also another trick is a winch will pull it's full capacity when it has one or two wraps of cable on the spool. so instead of having a full spool of cable you can cut the cable from 50' down to 25' and use a strap this will give you less wraps on the drum and more winching power. there's also the snatch block you can use too if you want to get the most out of your winch. go to tractor supply and get a 3 pully snatch block and that will really increase the power the more rollers you have in the pully the more weight you can move with less force.
 
..... we have always thrown a jacket, coat, even took my insulated coveralls off one time and throw over the line. Keeps it from throwing the line back toward the vehicle. Good saftey measure .....

Have always, on any vehicle, used a snatch block. Matter of fact, THINK there is three under the hood of the RTV, I know there is two >>>>>

I always double the line, saves labor on winches .....
 

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Y'all need to replace that steel cable with Amsteel rope. It's so nice to handle and it doesn't retain any of the pulled energy so if it snaps, it just falls to the ground.
 
Thanks for all your concerns about cab sitting during winching. Cab seat is only for "little pulls" and when i'm too lazy (or in too much pain) to hook the rear bumper to a tree or snatch block pulls. I think I do real well with one partially working hand and consider the RTV/winch a prosthetic appliance. Always try use utmost caution while winching and urge others to do so especially when tired or in a bad place. Little cables have snapped on me (on the smaller winches) but feel pretty safe with the current large diameter cable on the m6000. Another benefit to going BIG. Its so powerful i hook on to my favorite spot and allow the RTV to pull itself up to it to properly wind the cables. (Not a one handed job) The use of a proper choke chain helps and it gets checked along with d all the bolts regularly. A Tie rod did break recently (posted elsewhere) due to a vicious tree attack on a family member.


If anyone is interested all of the front shear is handled by grade 8 5/8" bolts/nuts to the frame.

Anyone remember the scene from "Gods must be crazy" where the guy winches the rover in a tree?
 
Y'all need to replace that steel cable with Amsteel rope. It's so nice to handle and it doesn't retain any of the pulled energy so if it snaps, it just falls to the ground.

thats some nice stuff but if you choose to go that route please put a cover over your winch when your riding. i had a buddy go through two drums of it them picker bushes shredded it to pieces and when he needed it the most it popped . it is some good rope but it does need to be protected from abrasions when ridding so keep it covered.wrap the hook up with ducktape real good because thats where the failures happened there and within the first 10' of cable that came off the spool.i have some in the room if someone wants it we took it off when he burned up one of his winchs i can see if it's still in there and if it is it's free to the taker. being down in the south i stay away from regular steel cable and for the reason of the picker bushes i stay away from the rope .i go to lowes and buy the stainless steel aircraft grade cable and make my own cable .i only keep about 25' to 30' of it on the drum.i will say though sinse i went with them outlaw tires i haven't used my winch.lol let all the air out to just about 1lb and hit the holes .i'll go look for that cable rope to see if i got it maybe you guys who use it might want it for an extra spare to add to your for that hard to reach pulling point.i know i got stuck on my hpx one time and it took all the cable on the winch and around 200' of rope and slings strung out to reach a tree.
 
The Idea of shortening the cable has crossed my mind a lot lately. Winch came with 100' and its a royal pain to rewind (especially for me) Alway could carry more chain or add hooks to say 50' of cut off cable and coil it up for emergencies. How long is suggested?

FWIW i carry a nylon tow strap to hook up rear bumper to trees. Doesn't weigh much and seems not to gird the trees. The amsteel rope would not last a week around my sharp rocks i'm afraid. For you newbies don't discount having a small comealong as well as the winch. If you have one you may never need it - if you don't you may regret it.
 
you wanna make sure to atleast have a full wrap of cable on the drum. i ussually pull it out til i got about half of the drum showing and pull with that and it's never given me a problem if you have ever changed the cables out you know that the cable is dogged in the spool really good so as long as you got atleast half the drum covered with one wrap of cable your good to pull away on that thing.the other good thing of taking some of the cable off is if you do turn your head and hold the switch down your alot less likely to over stack the cable because you don't have enough to fill the drum up to begin with.
 
you wanna make sure to atleast have a full wrap of cable on the drum. i ussually pull it out til i got about half of the drum showing and pull with that and it's never given me a problem if you have ever changed the cables out you know that the cable is dogged in the spool really good so as long as you got atleast half the drum covered with one wrap of cable your good to pull away on that thing.the other good thing of taking some of the cable off is if you do turn your head and hold the switch down your alot less likely to over stack the cable because you don't have enough to fill the drum up to begin with.

Firm believer in having one full line (drum wrap all away across) on the winch when working !!!!!
 
For you newbies don't discount having a small comealong as well as the winch. If you have one you may never need it - if you don't you may regret it.

For this is a super statement.

For years, we didn't have a winch on our trucks and jeeps. We have pulled a many of jeeps out of the swamps with just come-a-longs. Still have them today.

Great thing about it, never had to worry about having enough "battery power" or pulling power to get it out. The Come-a-Longs days still stay with me, that is why I ALWAYS have snatch blocks in the machines !!!!
 
i have 1-1/2 ton fold up comalong i keep in my bed box when riding. your right about a full one layer drum wrap to be on the safe side but after pulling on my winch and having it in a bind it's never budged with half wrap of cable on the drum.when i replaced my cable one time i tried to take the cable off with the winch still on the hpx and used a comalong to pull it out and it wouldn't budge i had to yank the winch and knock the dog out and then pull on it to get the cable out. when we install the cable on the crane boom winchs we hammer them dogs in til the cable is flat the atv winchs work the same way the harder you pull on the cable the more you pull the dog into the socket. the cable will snap before the dog gives way.and if your pulling hard enough to snap the cable then it doesn't matter how many wraps you have on the drum it's the cable that will fail. with that being said the atv and utv winchs shouldn't pull enough to snap the cable the utv or the object will move first most cables fail when the operator latches onto a load then put's the winch into a bind then gets onto or into the utv and tries to pull the object with the winch thats when you'll have cable or rope failure. it's always good to keep oil or grease on your cable so it doesn't rust or just do like me and go stainless so you don't have to worry about corosion at all. winchs are not designed to be used to drag stuff with while your powering up the utv they are made to move stuff or drag you out of a hole you should never hook onto something then try to backup and drag it your only looking for trouble and looking at buying a new winch.
 
winchs are not designed to be used to drag stuff with while your powering up the utv they are made to move stuff or drag you out of a hole you should never hook onto something then try to backup and drag it your only looking for trouble and looking at buying a new winch.

Yes, Peanut is 100 correct on the winching statement .......
 
yup way back in the day.i was b31.3 certified atleast i think that was what the cert was called. i was certified in so many processes that i can't remember the names of some of them.. i was certified to weld 2-1/2" to unimited for exray welds on pipe and 6gr with stick and fluxcore.also had to get certified to run the shortarc stringers on the jacket legs on platforms. got a stack of certf for welding on the cranes . i have them picked up in a folder someplace but have yet to relocate them.all in all i think it was around 9 or 10 diferent certifications. back then being i wasn't a big guy they would send me down into the pipes to check to see if the welders penetrated good enough before they would spend the money on havin the exray guy come out to shoot the welds.i think the smallest pipe i went down was 15" and you would know it the guy had about 2" of area that was bad so they ran ropes down one end of the pipe and pulled my leads and extention cord for the light and grinder.that was the only backweld repair i ever had to do in that small of a pipe.my dad gets me some left over drill pipe and i still keep my welding skills tuned in but my workin days are over.i could probably do a foremans jobs but the manual labor part is a no go . my brain still works and knows how it should be done but my body can't do the long hours anymore.to me welding and fitting was fun and i always enjoyed learning something new or doing different jobs. sometimes they would ask if i ever done this or that and i would lie and say yes then i would find a few guys that have been doing it and talk to them and just sit and listen when the job came up i went on it done the job and was always called back to do more jobs.i got hurt when i was 30 and by that time i was certified to weld on anything in the gulf of mexico and on land. i was just starting to get into the tig stuff when i got hurt and that put an end to that.what got me wanting to try tig was one day they asked if i ever brazed before so hey i lied and said man it was a few years ago and i only done a little bit but if you refresh me on it i'm sure it will come back to me fast.the guy showed me and i took it from there well about an hour later there was a few well experienced guys that had showed up behind me and was looking at what i was doing i asked whats up and they said they never seen anyone braze like that before so i asked them if i was doing it wrong because it had been a while sinse i done it and they said hell no thats the best brazing we ever seen i had them nice brass dimes all layed down and they told me that when they brazed they never tryed to stack dimes insted they just molted the brass to each piece and left it at that. before long i had the foremans and the yard superviser standing behind me everyone was bragging on me after that.i had the first auto darkening lens when they first came out and after i got that there was not a welder in both crews that could hang with me.we would always race to see who was fastest and who layed down the best beads and i always won. that was when i was working for pride offshore drilling we was building their new electric drilling rigs. one time i was working at Mcdermott we was building a dual 10" pipe spool well one day we was finishing up some welds on the structure part and all of a sudden i heard a loud snap and then a boom i didn't pay it no mind because the spool was always popping and snapping when they spooled pipe. well after i finished my weld i looked up and everyone was gone i looked to the dock and they was all on the dock waving their hands and trying to get my attention. i grabbed my bucket and walked to them and they was yelling louder and louder for me to get my $@$ off the barge . i got on land and they asked if i was crazy and said look man so i turned around and noticed what had happened .while they was spoolin up the dual pipes one of the welds snapped and was just holding on by about 3" of weld if that pipe had fully snapped it would have been the biggest bird nest in history we talking about dual 10" pipes here we was spooling them on the spool side by side so that way they could lay two pipelines at one time when they got to the location.they sent us all home for 2 days till they got a Mcdermott welder out there to weld some padeyes on the deck and secured the pipe with a buch of straps and comalongs. well don't wanna ramble on to much so i'll end it here but when i get to talking about the old days i just keep going and going.
 
I just flat admire those can weld skillfully. I try and can "get it done" but it requires artist of exceptional abilities to join and shape metal.
 
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