'04 RTV900 hard start

Tact

Member
Just started occurring when trying to start cold or even after it has warmed up somewhat. Engine turns over strong but doesn't start until six or seven attempts. Then all of a sudden she cranks up and runs just fine.

At first I was thinking it was the glow plug or relay since the weather has turned cold here. Then after it finally starts and after I run it for a while and shut it down...same thing. I have to crank it several times before it will start. Maybe it is not warmed up enough to not rely on the glow plug to assist starting?

Any thoughts? I checked the fuse to the glow plug and it is fine. Where is the relay? I think it is the small box next to the fuses? How do I test the relay and glow plugs?

Any help appreciated....
 

Tact

Member
You mention cold weather, could your fuel be gelling?

I don't think it is gelling as the temps have been above freezing. Yesterday temps were in the low 40's, so I don't think that's the issue.

I was going to try and test the glow plug side of the relay and I would assume it should read 12.6(+/-), but I'm not sure of the proper way to test it. It's a lot easier on my F250 truck. I guess I could unplug the wire to the glow plug and test it there?

Also, what is the proper way to ohm out the glow plug. what should the reading be?

One other item I was going to look at was the fuel filter. I'll be honest, I have never changed it. When it finally starts it runs as normal, so I'm not sure if this could be an issue, but it needs changed anyways.

Any other ideas on where to troubleshoot?
 
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Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
well glow plugs are generally heavy amp pullers as its almost a direct short to get them to glow.If memory serves me it should read about 1 to 3 ohms.........An easy way to test to see if they are working is hook a volt meter to your battery make sure all lights are off on machine look at the voltage then turn the key to preheat position you should see a signifigant drop in voltage as the coils get activated.If there is no major drop your coils may not be fiunctioning.In temps around 40 ish i hold the key in preheat for about 6 seconds and it will fire up.In temps below freezing to below zero time increased so about 10 to 12 seconds for 32 ish and i go almost 20 seconds in below zero temps on my machine. Make sure you use an anti gel additive and injector cleaner every tank full year around.Hopefully its something simple and injectors are just a tad dirty and the additive will clean it up.Each machine is different in starting.Key is learn how it acts and go from there but id keep it in preheat for at least 10 seconds and go from there.This comes from 9 years of expierence on the RTV 900 in temps going down to 40 below zero up here in michigan.
Good luck and keep us posted on what you find out.
Regards

Mark
 

Tact

Member
I'll check that, Mark. Thanks!

However, now I'm thinking this is more of a fuel issue. I went out to try and start it this morning and same thing. It would turn over fine, just not fire.....until I stepped on the accelerator. It then started. I have never had to step on the accelerator before. Maybe fuel filter?

I remember years back I turned down the fuel pump to alleviate the high rpms on cold start. I think maybe I need to turn it back up a notch.
 

King

Member
change the fuel filter that would be the first and easiest thing to start with and I think it might be your problem.
 

Mark.Sibole

Well-known member
as dirty as diesel is i would dfinatly change the filter no matter what I find i have to change mine at least 1ce a year.
 

bordercollie

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I have had a very similar problem with 2 tractors and a skid steer. In my case, I have a fuel line sucking air overnight and leaking down but not out where visible. I replaced the fuel lines and the clamps because they were the problem in most cases. Then they cranked right up .JD had came out and hooked their laptop computer to the tractor- it was so cold, the computer wouldn't work right.... Replace the fuel pump by guessing and 1300 $ later, it did the same thing the next morning... So that is when I replaced the fuel lines and clamps. worked like a charm cheap and place to start . So I would replace the fuel filter and lines and for sure those clamps. Or at least make sure that the clamps are tight. collie
 

Tact

Member
Well....I think I fixed my problem. I turned up my fast idle on my fuel pump and it starts up as normal. As I stated previously, years ago I had turned it down a notch because I couldn't stand the high RPMs when cold. This is also before I switched out the coast valve. Now she starts as she should. I still need to change out the fuel filter and change the oil.
 

D&D Farm

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I turned up my fast idle on my fuel pump and it starts up as normal. As I stated previously, years ago I had turned it down a notch because I couldn't stand the high RPMs when cold. .

First I have heard about "turned up my fast idle on my fuel pump". Please be specific as to where this is, how one "turns" it and how much, does on do this with the machine running?, and what is a person actually adjusting?????............A pic???

Your help on this would be greatly appreciated...........God bless........Dennis
 

Tact

Member
First I have heard about "turned up my fast idle on my fuel pump". Please be specific as to where this is, how one "turns" it and how much, does on do this with the machine running?, and what is a person actually adjusting?????............A pic???

Your help on this would be greatly appreciated...........God bless........Dennis

Hi Dennis,

Here's a thread I posted in 2006 on the adjustments:

http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10627
 

D&D Farm

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Thanks there Mr. Tact. The pic does NOT show up. I read through the thread, so will take a look at the pump, I hope I can identify it, tomorrow. Am just gonna look for 3 bolts on a gizmo that are safety wired...........

Am thinking I need to do this as a slight depression of the accelerator pedal makes mine lots easier to start, so if this is how we set up the idle a hair, I need to do it...........

Anyone else have a pic of the fuel pump?????...........Thanks...God bless...... Dennis
 

Tact

Member
Here you go. You can only see two bolts with safety wire through them, but trust me, there are three. The bottom one, which you can't see in the pic, is the one you want to make your adjustment to.
 

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D&D Farm

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Thanks, Mr. Tact..........had to go up to Nashville to schedule when the surgeon is gonna do his thing, yesterday and today. So, will look at it tomorrow and see what happens.....THANKS Bud...........God bless........Dennis
 

SpudHauler

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Here you go, the bottom bolt is just shown with it threads touching the throttle lever. Lock nut and bolt look likely 10 mm wrenches required.
.
 

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D&D Farm

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AHHHH...........Now I see there Mr. Spud.....It's just an idle adjust screw that works against the throttle lever. I had the idea that it was something mechanical that effected the internals someway on the fuel pump...........SIMPLE and good idea to change that to what one needs.............THANKS so MUCH for clear this up.....life is gooood.....God bless.......Dennis
 
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